Molly Time!

[Los_Control]

going to park this photo here, so have access to it later when I get home.

Then go back out and look for the mounting bolts again ... need to get glasses one day 

[John Rogers]

I removed the cowl lid on my B1B a while back to remove a buildup of old paint in the surrounding gap. If you open the cowl vent all the way and look straight back in thru the open cowl you will see the mounting bolts. There are 4 of them in all. One on each side and two in the middle. These attach the lid to the hinge. The two in the middle also are the ones that attach the opening mechanism to the lid.  Im pretty sure they are 5/16" but I might be wrong . I think the mounting bolts are also accessible from the inside under the dash too . It might even be easier from under the dash but with my back being like it is there was no way I was going to be able contort my gimpy self under there .This will remove the lid. The hinge itself will still be attached to the truck by two fasteners (23-61-66). One on each side that come in from the left and right. I did not need to remove the hinge itself so I oiled it and left it in place . I hope this is of some help.

                                 John 

Edited November 7, 2017 by John Rogers

[Los_Control]

2 minutes ago, John Rogers said:

If you open the cowl vent all the way and look straight back in thru the open cowl you will see the mounting bolts. There are 4 of them in all. One on each side and two in the middle. These attach the lid to the hinge. The two in the middle also are the ones that attach the opening mechanism to the lid.  Im pretty sure they are 5/16" but I might be wrong . I think the mounting bolts are also accessible from the inside under the dash too . It might even be easier from under the dash but with my back being like it is there was no way I was going to be able contort my gimpy self under there .This will remove the lid. The hinge itself will still be attached to the truck by a bolt on each side. I didnt need to remove the hinge itself so I left it in place and just removed the lid . I hope this is of some help.

                                 John 

Yes that helps a whole bunch. My vent is rusted closed, so no opening it to remove it.

While under the dash a few minutes ago, I decided the wiper motor needs to come out also, all the linkage needs to be cleaned and motor checked/oiled.

Then maybe I would see the mounting screws. Think for now will go out and oil the hinge and maybe next time I get out here I can work on it some more.

Chores to do this afternoon, not much molly time 

[John Rogers]

If its rusted closed I would give the fasteners a good spray of PB Blaster when your able to access them and let it work on the rust. I have heard Kroil works really well but I have never seen it for sale out here. I hope the chores go fast so you can have more Molly time

                                       John

Edited November 7, 2017 by John Rogers

[John Rogers]

If its stuck closed I would give the fasteners as well as the moving parts and linkage of the opening assembly with the handle a good spray of PB Blaster when your able to access them and let it work on the rust. In addition to the hinge and bolts there are a lot of moving parts in the assembly with the handle under the dash that could prevent the cowl from opening if they got dry or a bit rusty . A little PB Blaster on them could help a bunch. I have heard Kroil works really well but I have never seen it for sale out here. I hope the chores go fast so you can have more Molly time

                                       John

Edited November 7, 2017 by John Rogers

[Los_Control]

I have been adding oil to the outside of the vent, around the rain gutter for the past year. I pictured there was some sort of piano hinge under it that was getting oiled.

Simply to many wasp in the summer time under the dash to do anything. Now I can get under there and see where I need to oil.

Then next week I can get back out here where the truck is living.

 

 

[Merle Coggins]

Remove 21-61-66 and 21-61-40, from your picture. I have found it easiest to remove the speaker grill and speedo so I can reach one arm through those holes, and one arm up under the dash, to remove the side hinge bolts, as you will need 2 wrenches for the bolt head and nut. 

 

Merle

[Los_Control]

So I got some good news last week, finally got my hearing for social security disability. Been working on it for 4 years now. Life will be much smoother, no more depression.

Will have enough money to move forward, nothing crazy, just talking fluids and seals, brakes, glass .... paint, a welder ... king pins

 

As a old remodel carpenter, I liked the idea of building a wood flatbed, adding some tool boxes. Physically I can not work full time, but can do some handyman work to give me something to do. Seems I always drove a tool shed down the road, just feel naked if I do not have a bunch of tools and paint, oil, screws ... I like to be prepared for anything.

What do you guys think of this bed I found here locally? It was mounted on a nissan pickup. Will fit almost like it was made for molly. Biggest issue is 3"

From the front of the box to middle wheel well is 43". On the truck, 2" back, to the middle of the wheel is 46" ... think I can fudge 3".

Or grind the rivets off the spring perches and slide the rear end forward 3" and cut the drive line.

I think it looks a little to modern, but have a idea for that also, anyway I do not have it home yet but working on it.

 

[pflaming]

I would center that box over the wheels, a three inch space between the cab and the box will not be noticed. I would think to move the rear axle forward would pose a host of problems, driving for one. JMHO 

[ggdad1951]

9 hours ago, pflaming said:

I would center that box over the wheels, a three inch space between the cab and the box will not be noticed. I would think to move the rear axle forward would pose a host of problems, driving for one. JMHO 

agreed.  Plus that way it's not so tight between the two to clean up!  I'll never be able to clean between my box head and the cab!

[Los_Control]

thats what I will have to do, basically mock it up and admire it for awhile 

 

When I measured, I could see on the frame, about 2" back from the cab, is where the original bed had sat.

So I started my tape measure there, 2" away, then back to the wheel. Now we are talking a 5" gap in between cab/bed .

3" would be fine, 5" may also be fine, just sounds like a lot.

My first thoughts, air hoses and extension  cords are always difficult to find a place to hang them that is out of the way. You either hang them from the lumber rack, creates blind spots and easy to steal, looks a lil hillbilly .

So My first thoughts are to mock it up, then try to find a way to utilize that space, so it looks like a plan and not a accident. Maybe I need to move it back and leave 6" to work with?

[pflaming]

Maybe you can stack Gerry Cans in that space! LOL . If it really bothers you, I would have a piece of light metal formed to fit side top side. No one would be the wiser. 

[johnsartain]

Was that Utility Bed actually made for that year and model truck, or is it just the one was handy at the time?

 

[Los_Control]

25 minutes ago, pflaming said:

Maybe you can stack Gerry Cans in that space! LOL . If it really bothers you, I would have a piece of light metal formed to fit side top side. No one would be the wiser. 

Light metal would work great also, would be easy enough to do, I dunno about the gas cans, might have to change my knick to Los-flaming

 

15 minutes ago, johnsartain said:

Was that Utility Bed actually made for that year and model truck, or is it just the one was handy at the time?

 

I have no history on it, it was installed on a 1981 Nissan pickup. I have been wanting a bed like this, my uncle has one for sale on a Ford, It is just way to big for a pilot house truck.

Even though it is fiberglass and light, is just a monster in size.

So when this little maroon one came up for sale, I saw I could make it work, and not look terrible.

On the other hand, a standard size bed like this black one we have, would never look right on a pilot house.

 

[Todd B]

You could put a sheet metal skin in front of it then build Some full extension pull out trays That you could put small containers of assorted screws nails etc.

[Los_Control]

Sure wish I had a manual, maybe after the first of the year I can pick one up.

Heading over to get a lil Molly time in today, wanting to get the front drums off.  They are froze and not turning by hand, although the drivers side with a wheel on, you can get enough leverage to turn it.

I have been using the BFH method and just trying to knock any rust loose on the inside, not any progress yet. Last time I was there, I found I could turn the large nuts on the back of the backing plate, brake adjusters I assume?

Anyway my question is, does anyone know which way to turn those to loosen the shoes? Would it be counter clockwise for regular threads?

Thats my plan, loosen the shoes up all the way and knock the crap out of the drums. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

[pflaming]

Put "how to release  '50's  moparbrake shoes"  In google and pick your choice of answers.  Good luck

[FlashBuddy]

Yep, those are the brake adjusts. I went with counter clockwise; worked for me. 

[Los_Control]

Thanks for replies, I have not had a chance to get them off yet. I tried google and I could not find anything relevant.

I have been playing around with little trailers. I have one that was given to me, it has what I think is a 1947 dodge, or earlier front straight axle.

Anyways I took one of the wheels off today to fix a flat tire, and pulled the hub and was able to see whats going on inside of one of these things.

I also figured out that my uncle had a 1953 motors manual, was old enough to cover what I needed.

 

The adjusters turn away from each other. So if you are looking at the hub, reach behind and turn the one on the left side counter clockwise, will loosen it.

The one on the right side, you will turn it clockwise to loosen it.

And of course opposite to tighten them.

 

Tossed in a picture of a different trailer, my goal is to come up with a small trailer to pull around the property with the little tractor. Is handy to have.

Sadly the model A box, the frame is broke and not worth fixing. So will pull the box off and practice my metal repair skills.

While the old 47 dodge trailer is a pretty nice little 4' x5' frame and axle and using it now with just a piece of plywood laid down on it.

 

project right now is taking down a tree, it split at the base and is sitting on top of a old IHC dump truck, no damage yet but got to get it down before there is. And is a 55 chevy 2 ton flatbed next to the IHC, it is about ready to be creamed from the tree.

To take care of this tree, first I have to move a dodge pickup that has not been started in 8 months, out of gas, dead battery dirty cables, takes 1/2 a day to get it roadworthy.

Then the chainsaw has not been used in 4 years, it had a problem with the carburettor 4 years ago. I got it running very well after some work on it.

Then there is to much garbage between the two trucks, need to fix the tire on the trailer and can move the garbage, old tables and lawn chairs, lawn mowers and junk.

End of day two, I got a lot of the tree cut down. Tomorrow I need to get the 55 running, it is out of gas and no battery in it ....  But it is cleared of branches and needs to be moved so can drop the rest of tree, it will come down where the chevy is sitting now. Whether I move it or not.

Last week it was the park avenue that needed a fuel pump and new serp belt, then the merc blew a heater hose.

Hoping soon to get me some of that Molly time 

 

[Los_Control]

Anybody save and reuse the staples in wind shield garnish moulding?

Think this is a stupid question, is pretty simple to cut them and remove, throw away. Could also bend them straight and reuse them.

Problem is, I do not know what material will be using for a rubber seal and how it would be attached.

Any ideas what would be a good gasket material to use for this job? I assume it's purpose is to keep the garnish from rattling when going over bumps?

Got to go over there earlier this week and rub her fenders a bit and talk to her. Need to get going and spend more time if going to get anywhere.

Rear end is waiting for new seals and shoes before putting back in, and frame wire brushed and painted.

Still ranting about social security, been 5 years this month that became disabled, even though 2 months ago I went to court and won my case, still not heard anything yet.

Should have received a letter in first couple weeks stating what I could expect, and then a first monthly check a few days later.

I wont blow my check on the truck, will go to better housing conditions where will have the truck with me, to work on it as I can. I pray nobody here has to go through the feet dragging federal government shenanigans. There is no safety net for American citizens. Seems if you are a illegal alien, they want to give you welfare and housing.

This will be the year Molly hits the road, I can feel it!

 

[kendall]

I'd make a filler-panel behind the cab from sheetmetal and paint to match or add a 5" wide functioning filler cabinet. Maybe some fishing pole holders behind a door on one side and a shallow cabinet on the other side. The existing profile and lines of that bed are so square. How about using 2x6 p.t. framing and screw everything together? Fun project.

[kendall]

Sorry, I just back-read this thread and see others had the same idea. Always late to the party....any food left?

[pflaming]

Kendall, the food is all frozen solid, will have to wait for spring!LOL

 

[Los_Control]

That is a great idea  kendall and just proves that if so many think it is a great idea, it really might be the way to go.

When I get ready I will have to mock it up and look at it and decide. Still need to prep and paint frame and finish rear end conversion. And then I have a rust area in the back of the cab that needs to be repaired with a patch panel welded in. Then can get ready for the bed.

[RNR1957NYer]

21 hours ago, Los_Control said:

Anybody save and reuse the staples in wind shield garnish moulding?

Think this is a stupid question, is pretty simple to cut them and remove, throw away. Could also bend them straight and reuse them.

Problem is, I do not know what material will be using for a rubber seal and how it would be attached.

Any ideas what would be a good gasket material to use for this job? I assume it's purpose is to keep the garnish from rattling when going over bumps?

Got to go over there earlier this week and rub her fenders a bit and talk to her. Need to get going and spend more time if going to get anywhere.

Rear end is waiting for new seals and shoes before putting back in, and frame wire brushed and painted.

Still ranting about social security, been 5 years this month that became disabled, even though 2 months ago I went to court and won my case, still not heard anything yet.

Should have received a letter in first couple weeks stating what I could expect, and then a first monthly check a few days later.

I wont blow my check on the truck, will go to better housing conditions where will have the truck with me, to work on it as I can. I pray nobody here has to go through the feet dragging federal government shenanigans. There is no safety net for American citizens. Seems if you are a illegal alien, they want to give you welfare and housing.

This will be the year Molly hits the road, I can feel it!

 

Thant a trombone mouthpiece on the bench?

Edited January 7, 2018 by RNR1957NYer
Left out the text