slow vacuum wiper motors

[DJ194950]

http://www.fifthaveinternetgarage.com/tech_tips_vacuum_wiper_motors_update.php

Brake fluid as a lube??

DJ

[BobT-47P15]

I have also read that putting some Neatsfoot Oil into the wiper motor, similar to what the video said about brake

fluid, will soften up the leather in there also.   Neatsfoot Oil is used to soften, condition and preserve leather items.

Copy of a part of one article on neatsfoot:

Neatsfoot oil is used on a number of leather products, although it has been replaced by synthetic products for certain applications. Items such as baseball gloves, saddles, horse harnesses and other horse tack can be softened and conditioned with neatsfoot oil.

If used on important historical objects, neatsfoot oil (like other leather dressings) can oxidize with time and contribute to embrittling.[7] It also may leave an oily residue that can attract dust. On newer leather, it may cause darkening (even after a single application), thus may not be a desirable product to use when the maintenance of a lighter shade is desired. Neatsfoot oil is more useful for routine use on working equipment.

Neatsfoot oil is often used to oil sign-writers' brushes that have been used in oil-based paint, as this oil is non drying and can be easily washed out with solvent at any time. Oiling the brushes reduces the buildup of pigment in the ferrule, the metal part that many brushes have to hold the hairs in place.

Neatsfoot oil of the highest grade is used as a lubricant.[1] It is used in metalworking industries as a cutting fluid for aluminium. For machining, tapping and drilling aluminium, it is superior to kerosene and various water-based cutting fluids. The fat left over from the second pressing process, a solid stearin, is used for making soap

[DrDoctor]

   I’m involved in rebuilding a Trico vacuum wiper motor in a P15. The data I’ve read indicates that brake fluid is NOT recommended due to it deleterious effect upon paint. Other light oils may tend to gum up with age. But, ATF has NO deleterious effect upon paint, it won’t gum up, and it’s viscosity is excellent for these wiper motors. Thx.

[ptwothree]

I used a couple of dabs of chassis grease.  It originally had grease packed in it that was hardened and dried. No wipers at all.

I cleaned all the old crap out of it and greased up the vac chamber on both sides of the wiper/paddle gizmo and it worked like new.  I think the grease helps seal the vac chamber and lubes the seals as well. 

[5027 steve]

Something that wasn't answered was how much???? A couple drops???? Of the trany fluid,I presently have my wiper motor out and wanted to put something in it before I put it back in ... thanks

[Pablito]

So, this is a great exchange of ideas.

Was there a final word on brake fluid or ATF as the better option?

Paul

...About to embark on wipers since they are needed here in soggy Seattle area

[sidevalvepete]

On 1/14/2021 at 9:46 AM, Pablito said:

Was there a final word on brake fluid or ATF as the better option?

.......or neatsfoot oil, or something else? Am picking up this thread again. Haven't opened up two Trico vacuum wiper motors that I have for my D9. Connected them to vacuum on vehicle and no go. Thought I would try softening them up to give the insides the best chance to come back to life. Open to advice around the best way to go here and what others have done. Keen to stay with vacuum wipers but want them to work as best as possible.

[Kilgore47]

When I was a kid we would take them apart, clean everything and use Vaseline to help the paddle seal.  That's what dad and granddad used so that's what I did.  Not sure how long that would last.  Remember doing that on two cars.  One of them was free and the other one cost 25 dollars.  Neither car lasted very long.

[Dave72dt]

If it had grease in it, I think I'd replace it with white lithium or Lubriplate 105.   

[sidevalvepete]

Update on my non functioning Trico wipers. Used a syringe and filled them up with ATF and let them soak for 3 days. This freed them up quite well when I used pliers on the stems and they could be put through complete oscillating cycles - still wouldn't function on the engine vacuum though.

Managed to find some gasket kits for the KSB model on epay and ordered same. Disassembled motors and thoroughly cleaned them up. Used small paint brush and rags with WD 40 and also a nylon kitchen pot abrasive pad to polish off some of the old gaskets and hard varnish film from several spots. Cleaned paddles and soaked leathers in neatsfoot oil for a couple of days. They appeared fine. Used compressed air to blow out all passages. Also replaced a broken spring in the oscillating mechanism on one motor. Smeared neatsfoot oil on paddles and chambers and reassembled both wipers. Used chapstick to 'grease' the new gaskets. On testing under engine vacuum they both operated perfectly. Very crisp oscillating and too strong to stop with fingers. As good as new!

A few pics of what was used. I  also found that the large end of my tire valve install/remove tool was a perfect fit for removing/replacing the oval headed cap screws - better than snub nosed pliers.

[greg g]

There was once a member of this forum who found dot 3 brake fluid down the vacuum line worked to restore flexibility to the flapper. Which in most cases, stuck or broken mechanism aside was sufficient to get most vacuum motors operational.  Especially after years of sitting idle.  Nice job rehabbing yours.

[chrysler1941]

16 hours ago, greg g said:

There was once a member of this forum who found dot 3 brake fluid down the vacuum line worked to restore flexibility to the flapper. Which in most cases, stuck or broken mechanism aside was sufficient to get most vacuum motors operational.  Especially after years of sitting idle.  Nice job rehabbing yours.

Amazing he could distinguish between different DOT types ?

[Plymouthy Adams]

On 7/10/2021 at 6:13 AM, sidevalvepete said:

Used chapstick to 'grease' the new gaskets. 

 Excellent.....I got to admit this has to be the only useful purpose for Chapstick...

[TodFitch]

On 7/10/2021 at 3:13 AM, sidevalvepete said:

. . . I  also found that the large end of my tire valve install/remove tool was a perfect fit for removing/replacing the oval headed cap screws - better than snub nosed pliers.

Great idea! I’ll use that next time I have to open one of those vacuum motors up.

[greg g]

20 hours ago, chrysler1941 said:

Amazing he could distinguish between different DOT types ?

Says what it is on the container. 

[lostviking]

I bought rebuild kits online for a Ford. The gaskets were exactly the same. It also had new material for the paddles and the rivets to rebuild them. I only needed to rebuild one, so I still have the second kit for future use. I can supply a part number if anyone wants it.

 

I did a full disassembly and clean, the use Mystery oil to lube things up.

 

Testing them was as simple as moving the lever and seeing that it blows my finger off the nozzle. I live in Southern California, so rain is rare. I'm yanking the 6V electric crap the previous owner installed and putting these babies back in. Never liked the look of that toggle switch where the pull was supposed to be.