thebeebe5 Posted June 24, 2017 Author Report Posted June 24, 2017 3 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said: maybe an oil pressure regulator piston.....too many admit of late this gets easily over looked before baby's first bath. Got that already PA.... It's safely out of the block. I can see some leftovers of the water tube. Trying to pick them out now.... Quote
thebeebe5 Posted June 24, 2017 Author Report Posted June 24, 2017 Got it. Used 1/4" tooling stock with a hook fashioned at one end and a 1/2" 20 thread nut of slide hammer use. Picked a lot out with a magnet as well. I'll weld it up for re-use. 1 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 24, 2017 Report Posted June 24, 2017 7 minutes ago, thebeebe5 said: Got it. Used 1/4" tooling stock with a hook fashioned at one end and a 1/2" 20 thread nut of slide hammer use. Picked a lot out with a magnet as well. I'll weld it up for re-use. Please tell me what brand name rods you use, I would like to buy some stock in that company before you start welding.. 2 Quote
thebeebe5 Posted June 24, 2017 Author Report Posted June 24, 2017 Crank's a bit out of speck. Of course it's out of round and tapered too... Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 24, 2017 Report Posted June 24, 2017 get the crank ground to .010 under...should be good to go GIVEN there are no scores deeper than this cleanup will correct and the other aspects are within specs Quote
thebeebe5 Posted June 24, 2017 Author Report Posted June 24, 2017 (edited) Checked valve installed height to be 1.635". That puts the existing springs at 45lb seat pressure and about 97lbs open at a 0.321" lift as measured on the cam lobe (Exhaust and Intake have the same measured lift). Doesn't seem like much, but there's less than 10% variance in measuring every spring. I'll poke around a bit and see if that's good enough for a stock rebuilt 201. Edited June 24, 2017 by thebeebe5 Quote
thebeebe5 Posted June 24, 2017 Author Report Posted June 24, 2017 Pistons off and rods bead blasted. I'll check the wrist pin bushings for size before leaving the shop today. 'Bout time for a cold beer... Quote
thebeebe5 Posted June 30, 2017 Author Report Posted June 30, 2017 Block and various parts are back from vatting. There's still a good bit of sediment packed in the lower portion of the water jacket, especially at the rear of the motor. I'll have some work to do chipping that out tomorrow, and then will decide if it needs a chemical dip to dissolve some heavy rust deposits or additional leftover crud hiding in the interior nooks and crannies.... Quote
DJ194950 Posted June 30, 2017 Report Posted June 30, 2017 Still looks to need a hot caustic hot tank for at least 24 hrs. I had mine dipped overnight in a hot "soapy" non caustic solution, but "environmentally safe" and it did very little to all the rust accumulation inside by the lower part of the cylinder walls to block sides! Wonder if that is what you had?. Sometimes the block needs to be put in the caustic tank upside down to get the lower inside areas. DJ Quote
thebeebe5 Posted July 1, 2017 Author Report Posted July 1, 2017 22 hours ago, DJ194950 said: Still looks to need a hot caustic hot tank for at least 24 hrs. I had mine dipped overnight in a hot "soapy" non caustic solution, but "environmentally safe" and it did very little to all the rust accumulation inside by the lower part of the cylinder walls to block sides! Wonder if that is what you had?. Sometimes the block needs to be put in the caustic tank upside down to get the lower inside areas. DJ It had an overnight dip in a caustic hot tank, but the back half of the block is packed solid with soft sediment. Almost like a modeling clay.... Dug out what I could and will take it to a place that does a more aggressive dip. Got to get this goop out. 2 Quote
keithb7 Posted July 1, 2017 Report Posted July 1, 2017 Yikes. Thats is a lot of crap that came out of your block. Quote
thebeebe5 Posted July 1, 2017 Author Report Posted July 1, 2017 1 hour ago, keithb7 said: Yikes. Thats is a lot of crap that came out of your block. There's a lot more where that came from....! LOL Quote
thebeebe5 Posted July 15, 2017 Author Report Posted July 15, 2017 So, progress report. Last week not much done. Other things to do at the shop, and the block hasn't come back from the second dip yet. This week, resurfaced the valve adjusters. Some were dished as much as 0.050" where the valve stem made contact. Should help with valve adjustments... Also, tried to disassemble the drive shaft, but cannot get the trunnion cross pins pressed out of the joints even with the shop's 10 ton Sunnen press, so.... Not sure what next. Could try heat...? And knocked down the distributor. It had obviously gotten a Krylon rebuild at some point in the past. Blasted the black paint off and as it peeled away a rust layer appeared.... Not a bit surprised, but it's squeakey clean now. Internals look pretty good. Everyhing is nice and tight. I'll paint, lube and reassemble. By the way.... What color should the distributor body be from the factory...? Quote
keithb7 Posted July 15, 2017 Report Posted July 15, 2017 (edited) Looking good. Thanks for sharing your progress and pics. I'm here to humbly learn from others. I can't comment on your inquiries. Edited July 15, 2017 by keithb7 1 Quote
thebeebe5 Posted July 16, 2017 Author Report Posted July 16, 2017 13 minutes ago, Niel Hoback said: Black Thanks Niel. Gloss? Satin? Quote
Niel Hoback Posted July 16, 2017 Report Posted July 16, 2017 Satin would be good. Not glossy, same as the generator and starter. Breather pipes, too. 1 Quote
thebeebe5 Posted July 20, 2017 Author Report Posted July 20, 2017 Finally got the block back yesterday. Had it recleaned and de-rusted at Xpress Metal Cleaning in Phoenix (they did not do the first cleaning). This time its perfect. Water jacked is devoid of sediment and ALL the heavy rust scale in/on the block and is gone. Definitely a better place to start. Need to order bearings now so we can get the mains right. Parts are starting to roll in. 3 Quote
Frank Elder Posted July 21, 2017 Report Posted July 21, 2017 Would a 230 crank n rods fit in a 201 for a little more pep ? Quote
medium_jon Posted July 21, 2017 Report Posted July 21, 2017 10 hours ago, thebeebe5 said: Water jacked is devoid of sediment and ALL the heavy rust scale in/on the block and is gone. Definitely a better place to start. It looks good. Enjoy putting it back together @thebeebe5 1 Quote
thebeebe5 Posted July 21, 2017 Author Report Posted July 21, 2017 16 hours ago, Frank Elder said: Would a 230 crank n rods fit in a 201 for a little more pep ? It might, but as I have neither 230 crank or rods it'll go back in as original. It'll be fine compared to how bad it was initially. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 21, 2017 Report Posted July 21, 2017 the 201 crank journals are smaller than the 217/230 2 Quote
jeffsunzeri Posted July 21, 2017 Report Posted July 21, 2017 Do yourself a favor and put the distributor on a distributor testing machine. A truly rebuilt distributor with new springs, freed up advance weights, and new bushings with a perfectly straight quill will do wonders for the rebuilt motor. 1 Quote
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