48Windsor Posted March 28, 2017 Report Posted March 28, 2017 I finally got another intake/exhaust manifold. I'm going to disable the heat riser so I don't have to separate it. I'm looking at having someone braze the shaft to plug the worn bushings/hole on each side. I just want to verify that I need to turn the shaft clockwise to get the flapper in the proper location so the exhaust exits without restriction. Any other suggestions on disabling it or on install is appreciated, Thanks Tom B Quote
1949 Wraith Posted March 28, 2017 Report Posted March 28, 2017 For my 3 Chrysler products the heat riser shaft\ flap was turned clockwise to get the least resistance for exhaust exit. Quote
48Windsor Posted April 10, 2017 Author Report Posted April 10, 2017 Ok guys, I'm back again. I've got the manifolds separated. I'm down to either spending another $100 on repairing the heat riser or removing it. My preference would be to remove it. I haven't seen any pics or anything on putting a piece of metal between the two manifolds to block off the exhaust to the intake. Is there enough slop to put a piece of metal between them and not crack either of the manifolds when I go to cinch them down?? If I go to having anything welded, I'm right back to spending at least $100 to have someone do it. Seems like I'm taking one step forward and two steps back on this thing. Hmm, must be a song like that. I admit, I really don't know what the hell I'm doin with this thing so sorry for the dumb questions. Tom B Quote
austinsailor Posted April 10, 2017 Report Posted April 10, 2017 Take it all out and drill and tap the holes to a standard thread, put a bolt in? Or am I not getting it? Quote
48Windsor Posted April 11, 2017 Author Report Posted April 11, 2017 Thanks for the suggestion. Thats the easy solution, I agree. I'm guess I worried about all the exhaust hitting under the carb, possibly boiling the gas in the carb or causing vapor lock problems. Since the bottom of the intake is open, seems like I ought to put some separation between the two to route the exhaust gases out. Maybe I'm making more out of this than I need to but don't want to do it again. Quote
greg g Posted April 11, 2017 Report Posted April 11, 2017 (edited) I have welded my riser flap in the fully clockwise position. But this does not completely seal the chamber. I have a really thin piece of stainless steel sheet along with the gasket between the manifolds. I suppose you could use brass, don't know if sheet copper would hold up to exhaust temp, but then again marine applications use solid copper head gaskets which are exposed to direct combustion temperatures, so may not be an issue. Edited April 11, 2017 by greg g Quote
48Windsor Posted April 12, 2017 Author Report Posted April 12, 2017 Good to know. How thin is your stainless piece? Also,do you have a gasket on each side of the stainless piece? Thanks for the help. Tom B Quote
greg g Posted April 12, 2017 Report Posted April 12, 2017 28 gauge would be a guess, its thinner than the sheet stock at the hardware, about like two pieces of roof flashing. Quote
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