Brake Bleeding Question

[woodjunky]

I had both front brake wheel cylinders re-built and new pads on my 49 B-1.

I have bled the brakes several times using the old method of using clear plastic tubing in a container with fluid. Helper pumping the brake pedal three times, and then holding as I open the valve(s).

Can not see anymore bubbles in the tubing, but pedal is still spongy. After 2-3 pumps of the pedal seems where it should be. Wheel cylinders not showing any signs of leaking.

Any advice on something I am over looking ?

[JBNeal]

I had my wheel cylinders sleeved years ago but have had a spongy brake pedal for years on the '49 1-ton...after several years of use, I noticed dust caked around the bleeder screws; I suspect the sealing tip is pitted and not sealing, leading to a very slow leak...it's been on the to-do list, among other things

[Reg Evans]

Are your brake shoes adjusted correctly ?

[woodjunky]

Reg, I adjusted them to where I hear the shoe's dragging on the drum, and then back off until silent.

[P15-D24]

First I would pressure bled it. 

Second I would re-bleed all the wheel cylinders starting with furthest from the master.

With a pressure bleeder it should't take more than two trips around if you don't have any leaks. If the pedal doesn't come up after that start checking for leaks as JB mentioned and  careful inspection of all joints and brass tees. (I have see them develop hairline cracks)  One way I check a joint/tee is clean it off with denatured  alcohol so it is clean and dry. Then pump the brakes up 5 or 6 times, then let it sit for a 5 minutes or so. Then take a new dry kleenex and wipe down each joint checking for any signs of moisture on the kleenex. I was able to find a hairline crack in a tee using this method that had missed multiple visual inspections.  

[desoto1939]

Did you move the eccentric pin on the heel of the shoe. If you did then you will need the use of the Ammco 1750 Brake gage tool to get the proper setup so you do not have a soft brake pedal.  I loan out the brake tool. Since you put on new shoes this is also an cause of the soft pedal.

 

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

[thrashfit]

Hi Rich, I am in the process of rebuilding my '54 Dodge and will soon be stripping out the brakes and copper slipping the pivots etc. Can I reset the shoes and eccentric pins without this tool ?  I am in England by the way, Cheers, Dave

[JBNeal]

You may be able to approximate the professional tool with something more economical

[desoto1939]

You are going to need so type of tool either the ammco brake gage or maybe make up the tool that was shown in the prior post. I looked at this home made tool and it look as if it might work to get an adjustment but the Ammco tool would be the better tool if you can borrow one from some one that might have it. Also note that some of the FORD also used Lockheed brakes so if you have any Ford friend with the Lockheed brakes they might have the tool over in Bloody Olde England.

 

Rich HArtung

[austinsailor]

Previous posters talking about adjustment are correct. If, for example, if the heel is tight at the bottom before the entire shoe hits the drum, it will feel spongy as the top of the shoe tries to go out to the drum. Proper adjustment is everything. I seriously doubt air is your problem. 

 

We've had others on this board with the same symptoms, they've been given a dozen ways to bleed that never helped. Once they used the proper tool to adjust the brakes they had brakes like on a new car.

Which brings me to the next point. In several instances I've loaned my tools to them to accomplish this. However, I can't find any location information in your profile. Were you close, I'd loan you mine, and if you were close to others, like Rich, for example, he'd loan you his. Others would as well, but they need to have some idea where you are to make it practical. Enough said.

Edited March 18, 2017 by austinsailor

[Dodgeb4ya]

The brake linings really should be professionally arced to fit each drum before checking shoe adjustment ....shown is oversize brake lining on a standard non turned stock diameter drum..

Edited March 18, 2017 by Dodgeb4ya

[thrashfit]

Many thanks JBNeal and everyone else for your help and advice, I can make one of those brake gauges, hopefully. Best wishes, Dave

[Mike36]

You can have the shoes adjusted perfectly, front wheel cyls bled perfectly, and will still have a spongy pedal if REAR cyls have air in them. You have to bleed all four starting with the one farthest from master cyl, then 2nd farthest, etc., until all 4 are bled.

[desoto1939]

he original poster has stated that he has bleed and there is no air in the plastic line or catch jar. Since I have done this style of brake before I will put down a $10 bill that since he has new shoes and possibly moved the eccentrics that the shoes are not adjusted properly.  A gentle about 3 months ago has the same issue and then when he did get back to us he indicated that after getting the brakes shoes adjusted properly then he had a great pedal.

Listen to the people that have the appropriate tools or find a ford owner that has lockeheed braskes and they might have the tool since they would have the same issue with a soft pedal.

Rich Hartung.

[austinsailor]

Rich,

A year or maybe a bit more ago we did this. A fellow near Kansas City had a similar problem, maybe the guy you're talking about. Many kept trying to convince him it was a bleeding problem, although it was clear it wasn't. I contacted him by pm, offered my brake tools. Dropped them off on my way to Texas and explained how to use them. I stopped a week or two later on the way back to pick them up. His  brakes were perfect after adjusting. 

What more can I say?