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U Joiint B1B


jmooner3

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I found threads for larger trucks but can't find anything the 1/2 tonners.  Anyone have part number fof  source for or the Ujoint for the 1949 B1B?

I have two that appear to be new in box that came with my parts truck stash, but there too big.

 

1949 Dodge B1B UJOINT.JPG

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Could also call "vintage power wagons"

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxzO_Oy1EMLIWE9tMS1ROUNGS2c/view

 

Edited by Brent B3B
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That was a tough part to find, not many around. I bought an old stock one for my '48 B1B about 5-6 years ago, took a long time to find, cost over $100. Recently Roberts listed this. I bought one, they are new, not old stock. I don't know if Roberts is having them made or just stocking them from some manufacturer who did a run of them, but it's great to see a basic part for our trucks reappear. $75 for a basic u joint may sound high for a part that should have been $20, but in the big picture - it's great!

If there are other sources,  please let us know.

Edited by austinsailor
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1 hour ago, Los_Control said:

I never thought of ujoints for our truck being a issue, seems there would only be so many choices in cap size, something off the shelf would work.

Seems one more reason to do a explorer rear swap and driveline .

Mid way through the B2 series ('50) they made a change. The u-joint after the S/N break is a common size and available at most places. I've even heard that with a Jeep axle swap the u-joint matches right up without modification. It's the earlier light trucks that used that Cleveland joint that is more rare. It's good to see that Roberts has some now.

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They changed mid year, from what I understand.  A quick look will tell you. Cleveland ones have a spring clip on the outside of each cup (4 clips per joint, 2 bolts per clip) and a round ring where each cup is driven into. Completely different than most. If you're not sure, post a picture.

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Thank you, I will take a close look and compare the B1C and B3B and see if they are different and take a photo.

Maybe it is possible to use the yoke off of the B3B transmission, if it has a better option for u-joints.

I was just kinda caught by surprise while reading this thread.

Edited by Los_Control
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Yes, your B1C would have the early type and your B3B would have the later type. The change happened during the B2 production. I just looked in my parts catalog copy and it doesn't give a S/N break. It just identifies them as being different. Also, keep in mind that the driveshaft lengths are different between your B1C and B3B, so either way you'd be doing some driveshaft modifications, as Gene stated.

Driveshaft snip1.JPGDriveshaft snip2.JPG

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My B1C has already had a front axle swap to a 1/2 ton. I will need to carry 2 spares with different bolt patterns.

It has been sitting since 1978, will need a complete brake job, Lines, wheel cylinders, I do not want to deal with the larger brake drums, shoes of the 3/4 ton.

I am pretty sure I will not be happy with the original gearing.

Now if we throw in a possible u-joint issue, maybe now is the right time to do a rear end swap. I would expect to include the drive line as part of the swap.

And the 1/2 ton 3/4 ton wheel base differences, will need drive line work.

 

There is the choice to use the rear end from the B3B, the pinion seal was leaking horribly, would need a rebuild and still have the low gears.

Have a 1951 plymouth suburban will be parting out, possible to use that rearend, I bet it has same low gears since is a flat 6 with 3 on the tree.

Also have a early Ford Bronco II, possible that may be the right rear end for the job and it is free.

Just thinking can fix this problem by changing the rear end, cheaper then fixing the old 3/4 ton brakes.

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Thanks again merle. The B3B looks like it was the transmission was the reason why it was parked. Missing the top cover plate and linkage for the column shift.

Now if that tail shaft yoke would fit the B1C, would give me the later ujoints for the new drive line ... will have to remove and inspect closer.

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4 hours ago, austinsailor said:

 

If there are other sources,  please let us know.

https://dcmclassics.com/search?controller=search&orderby=position&orderway=desc&search_query=U+joints&submit_search=

 

http://www.oldmoparts.com/parts-universal-joint.aspx

Edited by Brent B3B
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1 hour ago, jmooner3 said:

Thanks guys! Seems a pricey part no matter where it comes from (all > $80).  I've got a couple parts places around here to check with too. Merle, do you have the OEM part number for the B1B in your book?

p/n 1238415 (the chart above is hard to figure out)

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On 2/1/2017 at 11:16 AM, austinsailor said:

They changed mid year, from what I understand.  A quick look will tell you. Cleveland ones have a spring clip on the outside of each cup (4 clips per joint, 2 bolts per clip) and a round ring where each cup is driven into. Completely different than most. If you're not sure, post a picture.

I got to go visit molly today, rocked her pistons a little, and then looked at her rear end.

The u-joint does look like a different animal, not sure if this looks like the odd ball everyone was talking about.

If it is, will be hoping I can use the yoke off the 52 transmission and install it on the 49. Time will tell, still to cold and snow on the ground to be working outside for the joy of the project. Where the 52 is parked, cant even get to it because of snow.

IMG_20170202_142405245.jpg

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Thank you Merle for the info and Austin for helping me decipher, when I looked closer I did figure out Merle's chart.

My local parts shop matched up another Ujoiint the caps are a little shorter but the overall dimensions are supposed to be same.  Will try it when I can get back to the truck and let ya'll know the PN if it fits.

Cheers,

Jay

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I found those Cleveland type U Joints @ Roberts Motors for $ 75.00 each. It was a perfect fit, Just remember to INDEX the drive shaft at the transmission  and rear end.

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A local shop matched up the attached for <$20. It fits the drive shaft, but doesn't have the knurled ends on the caps so the locking plates for the clevelands don't recess like original. I just flipped them and everything appears to fit. Will mock it up in the truck tomorrow. We'll see if this is a viable option for our community of B1B owners... This Ujoint

has a grease fitting on the cap so I just drilled out one of the retainers to fit over the zerk. UJoint1.JPG

UJoint2.JPG

 

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