Guest wrightkoss Posted July 22, 2007 Report Share Posted July 22, 2007 I have recently aquired a Dodge 1952 B-3-GA and we are doing what we can to restore it. Any help, advise, or FYI's that you guys can provide would be MOST APPRECIATED! Apparently it ran when it was parked a year ago so we just have to get it all back up and going again. Needs a new seat and rear and passenger windows but for the most part it is in good shape. I would love to hear about where you guys get parts and any other help that you can provide! I have been reading your posts and they are very helpful! Thanks in advance! If you are interested in seeing photographs, please go to the link below to view my album. http://s197.photobucket.com/albums/aa247/wrightkoss2007/1952%20Dodge/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest wrightkoss Posted July 25, 2007 Report Share Posted July 25, 2007 I am sure that ya'll have figured this out by now, but I may be the only female on this thread and am needing as much information as possible in regards to the biggest problems that you face when restoring these old trucks. At this point, I am pretty much working on it myself... Can you help me out PLEASE! Any advise, pointers, etc... would be much appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 27, 2007 Report Share Posted July 27, 2007 wrightkoss; Are you looking to "restore" your truck to original condition or are you looking to make it a good driver? You mentioned that it ran when parked. Have you made an attempt to start it recently? What specific parts are you in need of? Most engine and mechanical parts are available from many sources. Things such as light sockets can be repaired or up-graded but this depends on what your ultimate goal is. Tell us your plans for the truck, ask specific questions, and I know you will get more advice than is legal in most parts of the country. Good looking truck by the way! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest wrightkoss Posted July 27, 2007 Report Share Posted July 27, 2007 Are you looking to "restore" your truck to original condition or are you looking to make it a good driver? You mentioned that it ran when parked. Have you made an attempt to start it recently? What specific parts are you in need of? Most engine and mechanical parts are available from many sources. Things such as light sockets can be repaired or up-graded but this depends on what your ultimate goal is. Tell us your plans for the truck, ask specific questions, and I know you will get more advice than is legal in most parts of the country. Thank you Don! Okay so my plans are to "restore" my truck as much as possible but I want it to be good and reliable as well. The truck ran when it was parked yes, however the only way to start it was by pull starting it. All of the cables were froze up when I got it and I have since corrected that problem. I was able to get all of the parts to do the conversion over to the 12v system and will be working on that soon. As far as the engine, I am good to go... My lights are all in decent/restorable shape except for the 2 front parking lights. I need the whole ball of wax for that! I need the bezels that go around the front and attach to the grill as well as the light housing. Additional parts that I am in need of are as follows: * Drivers side "Dodge" *Rear and Passenger side Windows *Windshield Wiper Switch (chrome) *Actual ignition for the key. I have a switch right now *Ideas for or on how to rebuild the seat *Ideas for Door Panels and headliner *Rear lens covers only *Passenger Fender (mine is dinged up pretty bad) *Bumper The engine is all put together and I was able to find another speedometer to replace the face in mine since it isn't in outstanding condition. I was also able to come by the "horn button" (sorry for my ignorance in the name of it) to replace mine that was missing. I have never restored anything before and this is kind of a big project to try and tackle... so it will probably take me A LOT longer to get it as best I can than it would most of you guys. I just really appreciate the tips and insight into what to look for in a truck that has been sitting, what typical problems are and how best to correct them, and any other advice that you guys have! Thanks a bunch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reg Evans Posted July 27, 2007 Report Share Posted July 27, 2007 "I just really appreciate the tips and insight into what to look for in a truck that has been sitting, what typical problems are and how best to correct them, and any other advice that you guys have!" Welcome to the forum Tiffany Cowgirl! Whenever I resurrect one of these neat old trucks that has been sitting for a while ( a couple of years or more) I almost always end up having to go through the brake system and the fuel system. The brake cylinders usually get crusted up with goo and rust. Sometimes they can be bled and will work for a short while but eventually they will start leaking and the brake shoes will be ruined by this leaking fluid. You want to make sure this beast can stop so you might have to rebuild the wheel cylinders or better yet install new ones !!!!! If the master cylinder still has fluid in it you might be OK in the brake department. Unless the previous owner drained the gas tank it is probably crudded up too. I don't know how long your truck has been sitting but if it's been more than a year or two it might need to be pulled out and cleaned too. Radiator shops are usually able to boil out the tank and reline it if necessary. A tuneup is probably in order,along with an oil change and a cooling system flush. If you don't have a shop manual for this truck eBay is a good source for one. Ya gotta have one. Good Luck....we're here to help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest wrightkoss Posted July 27, 2007 Report Share Posted July 27, 2007 Okay Reg so how did you figure out "Tiffany Cowgirl"???? You are dang smart unless you know me somehow! I am pretty much thinking that I have to do NEW brakes, so the wheel cylinders will probably have to come first... auto parts store or special? (See these are the things I don't know!) I think the gas tank is good... we checked that, but will definitely check again. I don't know for sure how long it has been sitting either but probably at least one year... When you get it for free, you don't ask too many questions - just get it out of there and get the paperwork signed before they change their mind! Well, that's what I did anyway... Definitely needs an oil change which is why I haven't tried to pull start it yet and the cooling system is a GREAT idea plus I think I am going to have to redo most of the wiring... hence the starting problem. I actually was able to download the shop manual from www.dodgepilothouseclub.org and print everything out which is how I started to get things figured out with this old thing... May have to look into getting a "real" one but we'll see how this works out first. Thanks a bunch! And I am sure that I will have more questions soon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 27, 2007 Report Share Posted July 27, 2007 Okay Reg so how did you figure out "Tiffany Cowgirl"???? You are dang smart unless you know me somehow! Tiffany; The cow girl part was easy. The Tiffany part took a bit longer for me as I did not read your e-mail address the first go around. Is there a reason you want to convert to 12 volts? A well maintained 6 volt system is reliable. When I bought my car the prior owner had done a half fast12 volt conversion so I had to complete it. For pictures on how I mounted my alternator follow the link below. http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v65/DonCoatney/Alternator/ I have done a bit of the cowboy thing in a previous life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reg Evans Posted July 27, 2007 Report Share Posted July 27, 2007 "Okay Reg so how did you figure out "Tiffany Cowgirl"???? You are dang smart unless you know me somehow!" Lets just say " BIG BROTHER " helped me out here. No...actually the info was on your profile and myspace. It sounds like you are doing all the right stuff and those downloads should be all you need along with some blood,sweat and tears. Are the brakes working now? If so...don't fixum. Maybe just a flush of the system for now. If you need some parts someone else here should be able to help you out on a source. My experience has only been with the smaller trucks. It sounds like the price was right for your truck. I'm going today to look at a 48 2 ton for sale but it is way more expensive.....$300 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted July 27, 2007 Report Share Posted July 27, 2007 The windows you are seeking are just standard flat laminated automotive glass. Any quality auto glass shop can make them if you have a pattern. If the glass is missing you'll need measurements or a pattern for them. If the glass is there, but broken, remove it carefully and take it to them for a pattern. And on this same subject, if you are needing the rubber molding for your windows, I recommend Steele Rubber Products. They're a bit more expensive, but it's a much better product. Good luck with your project. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony_Urwin Posted July 27, 2007 Report Share Posted July 27, 2007 If you check the old car mags, you will find glass shops that have standard patterns for window glass. If you have the originals, as Merle suggested, you can save the shipping cost by having the glass cut locally. Some of the parts you need come up on eBay quite often. The seat cover on my seat was in good shape, but it was lumpy underneath and it smelled. 1) I removed the cover, stripped all the burlap, cotton, and that stuff that looks like straw (there's an upholsterers term for it) and sprayed the springs with Krylon paint to cover the rust and mouse smell. 2) The seat cover had been held on to the wire frame with clips, but instead, I screwed a piece of 1/4 plywood to the bottom of the seat frame, then used a sabre saw to cut it using the frame as a guide for the blade. 3) I cut a 2" piece of medium density foam to the shape of the seat, then cut a piece of softer foam about an inch larger. Glued them together with spray adhesive. 4) Put the foam inside the cover, turned the frame upside down on top of that, pulled the cover over the plywood, and stapled the edges of the cover to the plywood. Surprisingly, it turned out like brand new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony_Urwin Posted July 27, 2007 Report Share Posted July 27, 2007 Oops, forgot to mention, I put a piece of indoor/outdoor carpet over the springs and hog-ringed it to the top of the springs before I put it all together. I got the indoor/outdoor carpet, hog rings, cheap hog ring pliers, and soft foam from Kanter.com as a $45 seat rebuild kit. I could still feel the springs through the soft foam, so I went to a foam company and bought a 2" x 24" x 72" piece of medium density foam for another $50. So it cost me over $100 to rebuild the seat, but it was definitely worth it. Roberts Motor Parts sells the seat covers if yours are too wasted. If you are not concerned with a correct restoration, another possibility would be to unbolt the seat frame from the riser, and swap in another seat. You could even addd the integrated seat belts that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest wrightkoss Posted July 27, 2007 Report Share Posted July 27, 2007 I am really wanting to use the original seat in this truck which is why I needed some help as to how to go about rebuilding it. Unfortunately my seat covers are toast... For now, until I am ready to tear into that project, I removed anything that was lumpy and torn and just put a blanket over the springs that were showing... I then, took two older fleece blankets that I didn't want any more and covered the seats with those... just streched them tight and tack stiched them around the seats. I was able to vaccum them out pretty good and get it so that it isn't GROSS when you get in the truck now... it is something that will work for the time being, I suppose. BEFORE: AFTER: As far as the brakes go, I am going to have to do some more research on that one... I think that they may be shot. Good news though... apparently it hadn't been sitting for too terribly long because the tank was still full of gas and it wasn't gel-ed up or anything. Tried to pull start it last night without success... but I think that most of that it a wiring issue... we shall see. It is getting fuel to the carb so I think that we are in good shape there. Hopefully that will be the case for the brakes. I don't know just yet. The reason that I want to convert it to a 12v is because living in a rural area without much choice for auto parts or batteries... it is hard to come by a new 6v battery... in fact, no success in finding one so far. Also, we could put in the new system for the 12v for the same price as I could get a battery charger for a 6v system... and I already have a 12v charger. Finally... those generators are hard to get rebuilt in this area. Those that rebuild alternators for the farm equipment won't even touch the generators... so I didn't want to have to be searching for parts for that too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reg Evans Posted July 27, 2007 Report Share Posted July 27, 2007 "Additional parts that I am in need of are as follows: * Drivers side "Dodge" *Rear and Passenger side Windows *Windshield Wiper Switch (chrome) *Actual ignition for the key. I have a switch right now *Ideas for or on how to rebuild the seat *Ideas for Door Panels and headliner *Rear lens covers only *Passenger Fender (mine is dinged up pretty bad) *Bumper" Tiffany, I do have some of the items on your list. I have a Dodge script for the hod side,the rear center cab glass,patterns for the interior panels,and a Passenger side fender with some dents on the radius part but no rust out and good rivit area. If you are interested in any of these you can PM me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest wrightkoss Posted July 30, 2007 Report Share Posted July 30, 2007 Anyone have a good 12 v Conversion Wiring Diagram for these things? I got the one that was in your photos Reg, THANKS... Anyone else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis_MN Posted July 30, 2007 Report Share Posted July 30, 2007 The reason that I want to convert it to a 12v is because living in a rural area without much choice for auto parts or batteries... Thats odd, most tractor supply companies supply 6v stuff to keep older tractors going. good source for spark plugs, wires, hardware etc.... Dennis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest wrightkoss Posted July 30, 2007 Report Share Posted July 30, 2007 Dennis - you are correct that they offer it for keeping old tractors going but it is expensive, there is a 3 day minimum wait on everything, and they carry the 12v. I am really not interested in purchasing John Deere or Case (our two tractor suppliers around here) parts... I would rather be able to go to a auto parts place and purchase parts. That is just what we have decided to do. I think that it will work better for us. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 30, 2007 Report Share Posted July 30, 2007 Tiffany; Here in Tennessee we have non brand specific farm and tractor supply stores. We are not forced to go to Red or Green stores. The switch to 12 volt does not require a special schematic. If you have a good service manual for your truck you can follow that wiring diagram. Are you planning on using a GM single wire alternator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest wrightkoss Posted July 30, 2007 Report Share Posted July 30, 2007 I am going to use a single wire alternator that has the regulator built in. Where EXACTLY does the voltage reducer for the gauges go? After the coil, but before the fuel gauge sending unit??? Would that be correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 30, 2007 Report Share Posted July 30, 2007 Tiffany; The fuel gauge is the only gauge that might present a problem when converting to 12 volts. When I bought my car the prior owner had started the 12 volt conversion. He added a 12 volt battery and a 12 volt generator that did not charge. He replaced the headlights with 12 volt units but did not replace the rest of the lamps. To the best of my knowledge there is no voltage reduction device on my fuel gauge and it works well on 12 volts. Others who have converted to 12 volts have not been as lucky. Bottom line is if you need a voltage reduction device it should be connected on the power supply to your fuel gauge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony_Urwin Posted July 30, 2007 Report Share Posted July 30, 2007 The only gauge that needs a reducer would be the fuel gauge. The oil and temp are mechanical, and the ammeter needs no reducer. The reducer can get very hot, and that might be a consideration for placement. The speedometer has two 6V bulbs that can be replaced with 12V bulbs, and the intrument cluster also has two bulbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest wrightkoss Posted July 30, 2007 Report Share Posted July 30, 2007 Thanks Don and Tony. I have the following for my conversion so I think that I will be okay. I have read that if you don't have the voltage reducer it can toast the sending unit for the gauges... fuel gauge mainly I think. So I went ahead and got it just to be sure. *Alternator w/ Single Wire and regulator within *Coil *Coil Resistor (anyone know where exactly this goes???) *Voltage Reducer for the gauges *New bulbs which I have put in already *New battery... I am going to have to redo the wiring as if I don't need a specific wiring diagram for the 12v conversion, I need a good one for the B-3 trucks. I have found the one in Pilots Knowledge for the B-2 and B-4 and am assuming that will at least get me started on rewiring after looking at it... Anyone have access to one for the B-3's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 30, 2007 Report Share Posted July 30, 2007 *Coil Resistor (anyone know where exactly this goes???) The coil resistor should be connected before the coil. In other words somewhere between the power source (ignition switch) and the coil. Connecting it this way will drop the coil voltage and the voltage going to the points. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest wrightkoss Posted July 30, 2007 Report Share Posted July 30, 2007 Awesome! Thanks Don... so this was done on your rig before you got it right... so you didn't have to go through all of the schematics and diagrams to rewire??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 30, 2007 Report Share Posted July 30, 2007 Awesome! Thanks Don... so this was done on your rig before you got it right... so you didn't have to go through all of the schematics and diagrams to rewire??? Tiffany; None of this was done on my car. The only thing done was the battery install and a non working generator. I trashed the generator and installed an alternator. I have not yet re-wired all of my car but need to do so. I have only re-wired the things I have worked on or added. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest wrightkoss Posted July 30, 2007 Report Share Posted July 30, 2007 I see... so much help from so many people. I am getting confused! I think that between the schematics for the B-2 and B-4 that Bob Koch posted I can get it figured out. Lucky you, your engine is out! That has to make life a heck of a lot easier! Plus, all nice and cleaned up and easy to tell exactly what you have going on there! All of the dust, dirt, and rust seems to kind of run together for me and I get a little bit overwhelmed in there right now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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