Water pump replace or repack

[JPP]

So I had a great day, fired up the B2B for the first time since I owned it. Roared right to life. Now I installed new radiator but as I added coolant,  I discovered a leak at the nose of the   water pump. Probably a bad seal on the empeller shaft. Looked to rebuild but Andy B wants $49 for a kit and I can buy a new pump with  gaskets for 52.. are the new castings so bad that this is a mistake?  

[P15-D24]

Replace.

[desoto1939]

Yes replace. But make sure he is sending you the correct pump. Some of the newer pumps will not fit correctly on the lower left stud when looking directly from the front of the engine block check to see how long of a stud that you have in your bloack and also to see if where the stud comes throught the body of the water pump is only approc 1/2 inch think.

 

Some of the new replacement WP have the same body but in the area that I told you to look at the body and casting is much thicker and the stud will not stickout and then you can not bolt up the unit.  With the newer style they supply you with a new bolt that has the threads so you can bolt it into the block.  If you have the stud then you will have to pull the stud. I am very causous when havint to pull a stud that has been in the water jacket area for along time because there isa very good chance that the stud will snap off.  So look up your part number for your pump and make sure that the one he is selling is the exact replacement pump and not just a look alike pump.

 

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

[Plymouthy Adams]

unless you just got to do the repair yourself and have the press and such to install in proper alignment you better off with a factory build but don't let me stop you from having fun

Edited November 30, 2016 by Plymouthy Adams

[desoto1939]

there are special tools to rebuild a water pump and this include refacing the internal on the pump shaft and also getting the hub installed correctly and the hole in the shat drilled squarely through the shaft.  I have these tools. but the cost of a kit is almost the same and often times more than a rebuilt and sometime an new pump.  Go for the new pump and then all you have to do is install it. After you rebuild the pump there is still the possibility that it will leak again so eliminate that and save yourself some time, aggravation and dollars.

 

I have the various miller factory tools

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

[_shel_ny]

Check Rock  Auto.  You may find a good price on  a pump there.

Don't forget to use the 5% discount if you go with Rock auto

[Bingster]

Didn't I once see on here some place who did a good job rebuilding water pumps?

[Young Ed]

19 minutes ago, Bingster said:

Didn't I once see on here some place who did a good job rebuilding water pumps?

I think that was for the really early pumps you can't get new. No reason not to get a new one. I have one in my coupe and one for my project truck. If the one in my 46 leaks it'll get a new one too.

[desoto1939]

41 minutes ago, Bingster said:

Didn't I once see on here some place who did a good job rebuilding water pumps?

Art Gould from New York. His son is now running the business located in Kings Park NY 631-269-0093

http://arthurgouldrebuilders.com/

Edited December 1, 2016 by desoto1939

[Bingster]

Thanks.  I somehow got the impression that the new pumps were either Chinese junk or the staking pins came out and such stuff like that.

[Young Ed]

5 minutes ago, Bingster said:

Thanks.  I somehow got the impression that the new pumps were either Chinese junk or the staking pins came out and such stuff like that.

Those are fuel pumps.....

[Dennis46PU]

The only problem I had with my new pump that I don't have to grease because it has a sealed bearing was the cover plate on the back.  One of the 1/4" bolts is drilled through the casting into the water cavity and it had a slow leak.  I had to pull the pump back off take the bolt out and seal it with a little silicone.  After that no problems.

[Dodgeb4ya]

I bought a couple new pumps about 3 years ago.. one from NAPA a Gates

and another Gates from Rock Auto... both Chinese. The NAPA Gates one seems OK... NAPA cannot get them anymore I guess.

The other Rock Auto pump has such a rough and odd casting finish I'm wondering if it is even any good.

I bought them as they were cheap at just over $40.00.

[MBF]

I've had excellent luck from the ones that I bought from NAPA (I've used them in all 3 vehicles).  I kept the old ones as rebuildable cores in case down the road they're no longer available as new.

 

[desoto1939]

On ‎11‎/‎30‎/‎2016 at 11:59 PM, Dodgeb4ya said:

I bought a couple new pumps about 3 years ago.. one from NAPA a Gates

and another Gates from Rock Auto... both Chinese. The NAPA Gates one seems OK... NAPA cannot get them anymore I guess.

The other Rock Auto pump has such a rough and odd casting finish I'm wondering if it is even any good.

I bought them as they were cheap at just over $40.00.

In the above picture the hole that is near the return outlet on this pump will require the use of a new bolt if you are trying to put this waterpump on a car that would use the older version of this water pump.  On the older water pump from the mid to late 30 and possibly mid 40's the main body of the pu,p was different.  On the above pump just near the casting number 254 the body is now thicker, on the older style pumps the pump body was only approx. 1/2 inch thick at this point and the original stud that was used in the block permitted the use of a bolt to hold the body to the front on the block. In the version that is shown the pump was redesigned to use a threaded bolt instead of the use of the stud. So if you have the older styrl pump then you need to make sure you have the correct body fromt he supplier or either pull the original stud so that you can then use the new bolt that is being supplied with new redesigned pumps that are now available. refer to the attached picture of the old style with the 1/2 thickness where the stud comes through the body

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

The bolt home just under the return outlet on the far left is where the body has become thicker and the newer style also has a threaded plug to a return line so becareful in which pump you order. this picture is one from an early prewar Mopar car.

 

Edited December 3, 2016 by desoto1939

[Jocko_51_B3B]

 

My first intention was to dismantle the water pump that came with my 1951 B3B and to rebuild it with a kit.

However, I can't seem to get the impeller and shaft out without using excessive force. I tried using a hydraulic press, but when the shaft didn't want to budge I decided to back off before something broke.

So, how can I tell if this pump is an original factory pump that might be worth sending out to be rebuilt? Or, would it be better to just buy a $56 Tri-Flow brand water pump from Napa?

Lastly, out of interest, how does one get the shaft and impeller out of the pump? Anyone tried to rebuild one at home?

 

[JBNeal]

additional information - water pumps

Edited April 28, 2021 by JBNeal

[NiftyFifty]

Not to hijack, I'm thinking of getting a spare in now that we are doing longer trips, does anyone have the gates part number for the internal bypass style?  I found what looks like my pump with cardone 58458, but tough to tell if that has a longer shaft.  I can see the 42554 is not right, I have no threads on the top of my pump, just the barb for the heater hose.

[Young Ed]

4 minutes ago, 4mula-dlx said:

Not to hijack, I'm thinking of getting a spare in now that we are doing longer trips, does anyone have the gates part number for the internal bypass style?  I found what looks like my pump with cardone 58458, but tough to tell if that has a longer shaft.  I can see the 42554 is not right, I have no threads on the top of my pump, just the barb for the heater hose.

I believe that one is designed to fit all. If you don't use the 2 bolt holes they just sit there. 

[Dodgeb4ya]

#42554 is the only new replacement W/pump  that's commonly available for the 40's on up 6 cylinder 218-265 MoPar cars..

[NiftyFifty]

I can buy rebuilt cardone 58458, the gates 42554 isn't correct, so not much point buying it, but not sure the cardone rebuilt is the right one 

[Young Ed]

8 hours ago, 4mula-dlx said:

I can buy rebuilt cardone 58458, the gates 42554 isn't correct, so not much point buying it, but not sure the cardone rebuilt is the right one 

how is it not correct?

[NiftyFifty]

9 minutes ago, Young Ed said:

how is it not correct?

As I posted earlier, mine is internal bypass, not external, so the pumps are different...I don't believe the 42554 is threaded and all I have is a threaded barb that screws into the top of the pump, not the two threaded holes for the fitting that external uses

 

 

Edited May 29, 2017 by 4mula-dlx

[Young Ed]

It is threaded on the top. If you have the external bypass you bolt the little piece on and the water goes through the round center hole rather than the square one the OEM piece had. If you have internal bypass you still thread in your elbow just as before except you have two unused bolt holes sitting there. They don't hurt anything. For external bypass I'm not sure I trust just the gasket to seal that extra hole in the back plate so I swapped back plates on the one I installed. 

[NiftyFifty]

Ok thanks, I couldn't see any threads in pictures I found in the external pump, it is cheaper.  Funny part is I feel you select a 1950 Truck with a 251 on Rockauto they say they don't have a pump, but the 218 and 230 both show the same pump...and I know I used the pump off my 218 on my 251 and it was identical...but they are a bit different without those threaded holes, so maybe that's all that it is and they don't recognize the fit.