gbhdrake383 Posted November 11, 2016 Report Share Posted November 11, 2016 I bought a 1948 Dodge B1 pickup after it was sitting for a few decades. Went to put a new 6volt battery in it and I have no power. I checked the positive ground and the starter. Both are still hooked up and I'm not seeming to trace the problem. Any ideas. The only thing I've really done was remove the ignition switch from the dash but all the wires are still connected. it doesn't have a key. Just need some advice. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted November 11, 2016 Report Share Posted November 11, 2016 Did you try yelling at it? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Los_Control Posted November 11, 2016 Report Share Posted November 11, 2016 Always want to check your grounds. Have you tried the headlights? seems they would work without the key, probably the horn. You could just jump the switch or replace with a toggle switch until you get a key. Be careful to not leave the key on and walk away, will burn out the points. But if you know the battery is charged, clean the ground cables is where I would start For the pro's, does anyone have advice on making a 6 volt positive ground test light? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbhdrake383 Posted November 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2016 I tested the starter with a multimeter and it's getting power. The headlight don't turn on either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted November 11, 2016 Report Share Posted November 11, 2016 Time to break out the tune up hammer? DJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbhdrake383 Posted November 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2016 What would cause even the headlights to not turn on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted November 11, 2016 Report Share Posted November 11, 2016 It is not uncommon for the contacts in old switches to be bad. Also there is a breaker on the headlight switch that could be acting up. Sounds like it is time to get familiar with the wiring diagram and start testing. We have all been there and there isn't any easy way around the process of elimination.. Jeff 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted November 11, 2016 Report Share Posted November 11, 2016 Using your multi-meter, do you have voltage at the key switch? There should be a wire from the starter to the ammeter, then from the ammeter to the ignition switch and headlight switch. Use your meter to follow the circuit and find where it looses voltage. I highly suggest you get a copy of the wire diagram. You can download one from the DEPTCA site. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted November 11, 2016 Report Share Posted November 11, 2016 where can it be...be hared to guess from here....only you can report to the forum what you have found during troubleshooting....hopefully you took the protective cap off the battery terminal before mounting the clamp...lol.....Merle is right.l..even you posted a schematic on this board in one of your threads.....use the meter and just trace the wiring....it is very simple to follow, nothing like a modern car schematic where you have to jump through 90+ pages and through body controller and ECMs..all is on one page...heck a 50 cc motor scooter is more complicated than these old beasties... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
William Davey Posted November 11, 2016 Report Share Posted November 11, 2016 GB - Your original post states the truck has been sitting for several decades. IMO, you need to disconnect and clean every wire on every terminal in the truck. While disconnected carefully inspect each wire for proper size and condition of terminals. A meter or test light may show voltage at a connection, but that doesn't mean the connection can pass the high current required to spin a starter for example. Go back to basics, and check everything. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbhdrake383 Posted November 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 You all have great idea. I've decided to replace every wire one by one. That's what it really need anyway. Hopefully by doing that the problem may be solved. Probably broke wires somewhere 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted November 12, 2016 Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 If you have all original wires that's probably the case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted November 12, 2016 Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 I had the original batt.cables in my '48 and they looked OK, but cranking problems over the years had me stymied until I cut open the cable insulation to find the copper strands black with oxidation... new 0 gauge cables were made with soldered terminals, and voila! Cranking problems solved...the headlight switch got to hanging up, so I removed it from the dash, carefully pried open the tabs, and opened the drawer switch to find corrosion and dirt...cleaned that all up, applied some dielectric grease to the contacts, put it back together and BAM! Switch movement became nice and smooth. As for the wiring harness, insulation problems are worst at the headlights to the junction blocks; at the starter, dimmer and brake switches; around the ignition coil and distributor; under the cab to the fuel tank and tail light; and under the dash at the firewall to the gauges and switches...so purty much everywhere. I have been using the original wiring in the '49 (except batt.cables), but it is so bad now that only the starter works, after jiggling the key for awhile. And speaking of fuel tank, do not be surprised if your gas gauge does not work...the original sending unit design is prone to failure, and simply replacing it may not work without running a separate ground wire to a stud added to a new sending unit flange 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted November 12, 2016 Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 2 hours ago, gbhdrake383 said: You all have great idea. I've decided to replace every wire one by one. That's what it really need anyway. Hopefully by doing that the problem may be solved. Probably broke wires somewhere Replacing them is a great idea. Be sure to use the correct gauge wire when you do. Simply replace them one at a time may sound great too, but I'd check where they were coming from and going to as well. Just because they're there, doesn't mean that's where they are supposed to go. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbhdrake383 Posted November 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 14 hours ago, Merle Coggins said: Using your multi-meter, do you have voltage at the key switch? There should be a wire from the starter to the ammeter, then from the ammeter to the ignition switch and headlight switch. Use your meter to follow the circuit and find where it looses voltage. I highly suggest you get a copy of the wire diagram. You can download one from the DEPTCA site. Merle Looks like I'm loosing voltage from the negative terminal to the starter. I'm only getting 3 volts. And the key ignition is the same. Bad cable. This whole positive ground is a total learning experience for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbhdrake383 Posted November 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 14 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said: where can it be...be hared to guess from here....only you can report to the forum what you have found during troubleshooting....hopefully you took the protective cap off the battery terminal before mounting the clamp...lol.....Merle is right.l..even you posted a schematic on this board in one of your threads.....use the meter and just trace the wiring....it is very simple to follow, nothing like a modern car schematic where you have to jump through 90+ pages and through body controller and ECMs..all is on one page...heck a 50 cc motor scooter is more complicated than these old beasties... This is the diagram I found. It's from a 49. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted November 12, 2016 Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 24 minutes ago, gbhdrake383 said: Looks like I'm loosing voltage from the negative terminal to the starter. I'm only getting 3 volts. And the key ignition is the same. Bad cable. This whole positive ground is a total learning experience for me Yup... sounds like you found your first bad wire. There's nothing exotic about Positive ground. Any testing and troubleshooting is the same as a Negative ground system. Don't think about Positive and Negative. You're still measuring voltage on the Hot side to ground. If it'll help you to not get messed up, switch the leads on your meter so that the red lead is in the COM socket and the black lead is in the V/Ohm socket. That way you can still put the black on ground and use the red to test the circuit. That wire diagram is correct for your truck. Even though it's for the B2 series there really wasn't any changes in the wiring from the B1 series that you have. This diagram also shows the wire size as well as the color. The colors can be difficult to determine on the old cloth wires. They tend to fade out and all look grey. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted November 12, 2016 Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 You may want to check your battery voltage itself. Just because it's new, doesn't mean it's fully charged. Since these batteries tend to be slow movers at stores, it may have sat on the self for a long period. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbhdrake383 Posted November 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2016 24 minutes ago, Dave72dt said: You may want to check your battery voltage itself. Just because it's new, doesn't mean it's fully charged. Since these batteries tend to be slow movers at stores, it may have sat on the self for a long period. I did. It's at 6.4volts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbhdrake383 Posted November 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2016 So I found that the positive ground is bolted to the top of the trans. Is that correct? Seems like it should be grounded to the frame Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbhdrake383 Posted November 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2016 On 11/11/2016 at 11:51 AM, JBNeal said: Did you try yelling at it? No yet. I'm about to take it Darnell's from the movie/book Christine and have Arnie work on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Roberts Posted November 13, 2016 Report Share Posted November 13, 2016 12 minutes ago, gbhdrake383 said: So I found that the positive ground is bolted to the top of the trans. Is that correct? Seems like it should be grounded to the frame To the trans is fine . Make sure you have a good ground from the engine to the frame too . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbhdrake383 Posted November 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2016 56 minutes ago, Jerry Roberts said: To the trans is fine . Make sure you have a good ground from the engine to the frame too . Good idea. I'll do that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted November 13, 2016 Report Share Posted November 13, 2016 10 hours ago, gbhdrake383 said: So I found that the positive ground is bolted to the top of the trans. Is that correct? Seems like it should be grounded to the frame yep that's were mine was/is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted November 13, 2016 Report Share Posted November 13, 2016 2 hours ago, ggdad1951 said: yep that's were mine was/is Yes start with cleaning up that connection. Quality of ground depends on good mechanical connections. If you find you have a problem with ground you can always add jumper straps between components. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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