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Introducing myself, and a recent problem


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Greetings all, just found this forum and seems like something I should have joined years ago.  I have a 1950 Dodge b-2-b-108 that I go racing in.  Has a Jaguar xj6 front suspension, firebird rear axle, airport tug engine, valiant steering column, camaro brake master, full roll cage, etc etc.  Not fast in a straight line, but still a barrel of laughs.  To those purists out there, this car was on it's way to the scrap heap when I got it.  Not terribly rusty, but every single panel has been wrecked at some point in it's life.  Sadly the truck overheated BAD this morning and it is pressurizing the cooling system upon startup.  Radiator popped on me, it seems that the pressure relief valve in the 47 plymouth radiator decided to not function.  So tomorrow I will be doing a head gasket and trying to find some kind of radiator that will keep things a bit cooler.  Was in the process of replacing all the gauges yesterday so didn't have any gauges to check, I don't know how hot it got.  I did pull over the second I saw steam.  Turns out this radiator is not capable of keeping the truck cool when going uphill at 70+mph (turning around 2700rpm)

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Yeah, it is a blast to drive around for sure.  Someone out there will be upset about it being ruined in some way(5 window, low bedside, springtime special, vent windows, comfy seat, radio, heater, 4 speed, all options that were ticked when new)  truck was originally red with yellow fenders, roof, and wheel arches.  Here are some pictures of when I first got it.

1474374_10202330920746198_179698933_n.jpg

1513692_10202330917306112_721213039_n.jpg

1981994_10202800626488548_1253845438_n.jpg

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fwiw, I am no purist. I recently bought 2.5 trucks. I want to make the B1C a daily driver and as stock as possible. The B3B I am robbing parts off of.

When finished with the 49, I plan to build the 52 with original flat 6, but remove the top, home made sheet metal up front with grill shell, fenders and splash aprons, open engine bay, T5 trans and 8.8 rearend ... you get the idea.

A stock 49 to chase parts with, a 52 to play with.

 

I wish you good luck with your radiator issue, hoping it is not worse with block, head issues.

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On 10/27/2016 at 8:09 PM, wizard0ne0 said:

Greetings all, just found this forum and seems like something I should have joined years ago.  I have a 1950 Dodge b-2-b-108 that I go racing in.  Has a Jaguar xj6 front suspension, firebird rear axle, airport tug engine, valiant steering column, camaro brake master, full roll cage, etc etc.  Not fast in a straight line, but still a barrel of laughs.  To those purists out there, this car was on it's way to the scrap heap when I got it.  Not terribly rusty, but every single panel has been wrecked at some point in it's life.  Sadly the truck overheated BAD this morning and it is pressurizing the cooling system upon startup.  Radiator popped on me, it seems that the pressure relief valve in the 47 plymouth radiator decided to not function.  So tomorrow I will be doing a head gasket and trying to find some kind of radiator that will keep things a bit cooler.  Was in the process of replacing all the gauges yesterday so didn't have any gauges to check, I don't know how hot it got.  I did pull over the second I saw steam.  Turns out this radiator is not capable of keeping the truck cool when going uphill at 70+mph (turning around 2700rpm)

kool and welcome, purists whats that, maybe on the AACA site.

This is the type of engine you need to go racing,

 

My truck, ain't pure at all, since this vid was shot finished up painting in the cab.

 

Edited by Rockwood
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15 hours ago, Jeff Balazs said:

Sounds like an interesting truck. Were you running a pressure cap on this radiator? What altitude are you running it at?

Jeff

Running at around 6000 ft, and it seems the head gasket went bad, and the overflow tube got kinked....So it went blowy upy.  New head gasket in today and cobbled together a radiator and got it running again.  The cylinder walls are pretty badly scored.  Drove about 45 minutes after everything was done and didn't have any problems.

 

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...more than a little curious about the 'button-shift in the dash in the as-bought photo but also showing the manual trans shifter...????

What did you buy?:P

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10 minutes ago, wayfarer said:

...more than a little curious about the 'button-shift in the dash in the as-bought photo but also showing the manual trans shifter...????

What did you buy?:P

The dash unit is the Mopar radio.

 

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On 10/28/2016 at 10:45 PM, wizard0ne0 said:

Running at around 6000 ft, and it seems the head gasket went bad, and the overflow tube got kinked....So it went blowy upy.  New head gasket in today and cobbled together a radiator and got it running again.  The cylinder walls are pretty badly scored.  Drove about 45 minutes after everything was done and didn't have any problems.

 

Not sure if it is of any interest but when I had my original radiator re-cored the shop tested it at 15# for 3 hours. Just guessing here but I would think you could run an 8# cap if you had a fresh core and that it might help at that altitude. Also might try adding Water Wetter to your cooling mix. I saw an immediate drop of 6 to 8 degrees in my running temps after adding it this summer. I am still running my truck with a non pressurized cooling system.

Jeff

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I have read that on the older radiators that were designed to run with low or no pressure , that if you run 8 pounds of pressure in them , the top tank will ' oil can ' with the hot and cold cycles . This will cause a split seam over time . Any truth in it ? I don't know for sure . 

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2 hours ago, Jeff Balazs said:

Not sure if it is of any interest but when I had my original radiator re-cored the shop tested it at 15# for 3 hours. Just guessing here but I would think you could run an 8# cap if you had a fresh core and that it might help at that altitude. Also might try adding Water Wetter to your cooling mix. I saw an immediate drop of 6 to 8 degrees in my running temps after adding it this summer. I am still running my truck with a non pressurized cooling system.

Jeff

Jeff, If the overflow tube is plugged where would the eight pound cap relieve itself? There is no vent port in the fill spout.

Don't tell me the nearest fire plug:rolleyes:

Mvc-001f.jpg

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On 10/27/2016 at 9:09 PM, wizard0ne0 said:

Greetings all, just found this forum and seems like something I should have joined years ago.  I have a 1950 Dodge b-2-b-108 that I go racing in.  Has a Jaguar xj6 front suspension, firebird rear axle, airport tug engine, valiant steering column, camaro brake master, full roll cage, etc etc.  Not fast in a straight line, but still a barrel of laughs.  To those purists out there, this car was on it's way to the scrap heap when I got it.  Not terribly rusty, but every single panel has been wrecked at some point in it's life.  Sadly the truck overheated BAD this morning and it is pressurizing the cooling system upon startup.  Radiator popped on me, it seems that the pressure relief valve in the 47 plymouth radiator decided to not function.  So tomorrow I will be doing a head gasket and trying to find some kind of radiator that will keep things a bit cooler.  Was in the process of replacing all the gauges yesterday so didn't have any gauges to check, I don't know how hot it got.  I did pull over the second I saw steam.  Turns out this radiator is not capable of keeping the truck cool when going uphill at 70+mph (turning around 2700rpm)

 

1 hour ago, Jeff Balazs said:

Don;

Surely that would get fixed? On the truck radiator it is right at the neck of the filler. Pretty easy to check.

Jeff

Not a truck radiator.

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Well, got the truck cobbled together enough to make it home.  When I had the head off I noticed that the cylinder walls are fairly badly scored.  Now it has a more modern radiator in it and a properly vented system running at about 7 ib's of pressure.  Planning on doing another mechanical overhaul on it.  Bit of a laundry list of things before he next race.  Properly install gauges, add cage around fuel cell, reinforce the floor, find a proper aluminum radiator, adjust the alternator so that the v-belt is better aligned, etc.

On 10/28/2016 at 7:17 PM, Rockwood said:

 

 

I need to get a hold of these guys and see what they did!

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Contact Tim Kingsbury AoK Racing, he and George Asche are the 2 you want to go to, to find out what is needed to make power with these engines. From Mild to Wild, a  lot of the builds are not intended for "street use", but they are the authority on this topic.....

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