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Those copper strap condensers come with a plastic covering...though can work with out it.

Not proper though.

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There is a flexible jumper wire in the distributor which can break or it can ground out due to worn insulation.  That is the first place to look when ignition cuts out.   Replacement cannot be with or

Double check your cap and rotor. There are a couple different sizes and if they are mismatched the rotor won't pass current through to the cap posts.  Also, if you pull the coil wire out of the c

you are grounded.....no voltage can be read....if points are open should read voltage and if not...your lead is going to ground...recheck your work...   the 6 volt ignition is just a single

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I just started reading this thread and I assume the dist. is still out of the engine.  Now would be a good time to check for voltage coming out of the coil and or the lead form the coil to the dis. if it hasn't been done already.  A simple, cheap test light will work just fine.   Know how far you actually have power one connection at a time.  Once inside the dist., it's one piece at a time.  Slide a piece of paper between the points so they aren't grounded.

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I had spark when I first started to get it started. It almost started then nothing. I found a broken lead from the power wire coming to distributor to points. No power when I replaced it. I have power into coil but none coming out.

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3 minutes ago, Carl said:

I had spark when I first started to get it started. It almost started then nothing. I found a broken lead from the power wire coming to distributor to points. No power when I replaced it. I have power into coil but none coming out.

 

If the points are closed you won't read voltage on the wire between the coil and distributor as the points are providing a ground for that wire. You won't read voltage on a grounded wire. Hold the points open and test it again. If you still don't show voltage on that wire you may have it shorted to ground somewhere before the connection to the points, or the coil has an open circuit internally. 

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should be negative but I believe the coil does not care. Someone may correct me on this.

 

Way I understand it, the coil gets use to running one direction. after years of use ... you pull a used coil off the shelf with no idea if it was + or - ground the last time used ... it will run but maybe give some weird issues at higher rpm.

 

also if you convert your car to 12 volt - ground, swapping the hot wire to the coil is one of the steps.

 

This is not your issue.

If you have power going to the outside of distributor, but checking inside the distributor you lose power ... something is wrong in that area and needs corrected.

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Detach the small wire going from the coil to the distributor.  Do you have ;power coming out of that coil terminal with the key on?  That takes anything downstream of the coil out of the equation.  If you do have power, replace that wire onto the coil and remove it at the distributor end and retest at the end of the wire for power.  If you have power there, reattach the wire and disconnect the points and condenser.  Retest where the power comes through the distributor case.  Next is the points with some paper between the point contacts to insulate them. Power?  At any point where you don't have power, you have a problem that needs to be corrected and it's between the last verified power location and your newest testing location.  By testing in a logical sequence, you can narrow the problem area down.

Edited by Dave72dt
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23 minutes ago, Carl said:

The wiring diagrams I have seen has the distributor power wire wired to positive side of coil.

 

That is correct for an otherwise stock 1950 Plymouth, though it is not a power wire it is an intermittent ground going thru the points.

Edited by Sniper
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22 hours ago, Carl said:

I had spark when I first started to get it started. It almost started then nothing. I found a broken lead from the power wire coming to distributor to points. No power when I replaced it. I have power into coil but none coming out.

We really need to know the details of how that measurement was taken.  Points open or closed, wire connected to coil or not, wire connected to distributor or not etc.   For instance, if the points are closed, there will be no voltage at the coil + terminal to measure.

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