shop lift and clearance required

[Bobacuda]

I am about to contract for a shop with a 2-post lift (did not think of that when I built my current shop 20 years ago) to help me with my old vehicle addiction - and when I do the family vehicle oil changes.  To avoid future regrets, I have a few questions for those of you with 2-post lifts. 

1.  Is symmetric or asymmetric best?

2.  How much clearance, floor to ceiling do I need to avoid putting the truck in the ceiling? I would really like to hear a real measurement from someone that has their truck up on the lift.  I have been told 12' - 15'.   I don't want the space to be too small nor do I want it to be too cavernous. 

3.  What brand of lift would you recommend and why?

Thanks in advance.

[ggdad1951]

my 2 post has a crossmember at the cieling and gets me 6' clearance under a vehicle.  I have 14' ceilings.  My lift is 20 years old and no longer made so the make there won't help.  Just get the biggest you can so you don't have a suprise later!

[Plymouthy Adams]

that would depend on the lift you getting as stated above, if it has the cross support then allowance for that would have to be considered....while I do not have a 2 post, my 4 post lift does very well with the 13 foot ceiling in my bay and I do run my mini vans up to full lift position with no problems..most all lift documentation will give you the height of the arms at full extension...with that info it is easy to just add the height of the tallest vehicle you expect to work on and build from there...congrats on getting a lift...your knees gonna love ya

[NiftyFifty]

2 post hoists are great, and I'm heading in the same direction as you in the near future, new shop and new hoist, but one thing I can warn you about if you have more then a truck to work on, make sure they tell you what the ground clearance is at the bottom out point....reason I say this, my 1967 Monaco wouldn't go on my buddies two post...just way too low, and I think the same issue would come from a lot of hot rods.  His shop has 3 different 2 post lifts and only one of them I could get the car on, and even then I had to use a floor jack to lift the car to get the arms under the frame...and really my cars not all that low.

 

Just something to consider....that and go for the 10,000 lb if it's close to the same price....much heavier and allows for darn near everything you may want to lift

[JBNeal]

Maybe I am missing something, but if ya measured to the top of the cab, then measured standing with your hands outstretched fingertip to the floor, then added those two measurements and added a little wiggle room, wouldn't that get ya the clearnce measurement?  My guess is that 15' would be adequate clearance

[Reg Evans]

My ceiling is 12' high and I have not had a height problem yet with my cars or trucks.  My lift is a 9000 #.  I added some earth quake stays at the top of mine for a little peace of mind since I live in Calif.  Here's my 35 Dodge on the lift for brake bleeding.  It's not all the way up but it could be.

 

[Bobacuda]

JB, if I could still stand and bend enough to touch my fingertips on the floor, I wouldn't need a lift

[Brent B3B]

On ‎10‎/‎10‎/‎2016 at 5:42 AM, Bobacuda said:

........................to help me with my old vehicle addiction...............

 

I KNEW IT!.....  

always giving me a hard time ...... 

[Bobacuda]

But Brent, you forget.  Admitting you have a problem is the first step.

[Plymouthy Adams]

forgetting that first step has been the biggest problem for most folks...

[HotRodTractor]

I have a 10K asymmetrical lift and if I remember correctly my lift needs 12' 6" of clearance to install in the shop. There are some lower profile lifts that eliminate the cross bar at the top for a lower ceiling height at the expense of having a bar connecting them at the base that you have to drive over.

[austinsailor]

Ok, I'm ignorant. What is the asymmetrical thing?

[Reg Evans]

2 hours ago, HotRodTractor said:

I have a 10K asymmetrical lift and if I remember correctly my lift needs 12' 6" of clearance to install in the shop. There are some lower profile lifts that eliminate the cross bar at the top for a lower ceiling height at the expense of having a bar connecting them at the base that you have to drive over.

That's the type I have with my 12' ceiling. The hump on the floor is only about 1" tall and not a problem to roll over.

[Dodgeb4ya]

1 hour ago, austinsailor said:

Ok, I'm ignorant. What is the asymmetrical thing?

More info...https://www.eagleequip.com/blog/2013/07/24/asymmetric-vs-symmetric-lifts/

Edited October 15, 2016 by Dodgeb4ya

[DJ194950]

May I add to what has been posted that a asymmetrical lift will also allow easier to get in/out as the door opening on most vehicles will sit somewhere rearwards on the lift.

[austinsailor]

I'm still not sure I have it exactly, maybe I haven't seen an asymmetric lift. But I get the general idea. I've used many of the old Center cylinder hydraulic/air lifts. Ok for some things, but probably of little use for our needs. 

 

I have one, must be symmetrical, I think there is no difference as to direction. I'll have to ask around among friends who have lifts, I'll look at theirs and maybe I'll get it all figured out.

[DJ194950]

Not to hard to figure out which you have. Are the the lifting arms the same length before extending and centered at the lift post.  Symmetrical if so. About 1 foot or so different ( back longer)  also  the mount point may be slightly behind lift post center? = asymmetrical.

DJ

[austinsailor]

Well, I'm moving the lift today. Going from my Dad's old place to mine.

10,000 lb, I think asymmetrical. Picture of the arms tell?

[austinsailor]

I just re-read the old posts and see that he had it set so that the front was longer. Is this backwards from how it should have been?

in the picture of the arms, you drive on from the left. I get the feeling Dad installed it backwards.

[ggdad1951]

My lift the short arms go forward

[Plymouthy Adams]

short arms to the front...the position of the lift to the front wheels chock when set will establish the heavier end of the vehicle forward and on the short arms supporting the heavier combination of the front end of the car, engine and tranny weight....the lighter end will be supported by the longer arms to the rear..this will contribute to the proper distribution of the weight..

if you would take a minute in addition to color coding the cables as we spoke on chat...do get the very distance from the centerline of the uprights to the wheel chock...will help with the initial install.  Most likely you can find the very mounting instruction online if you father did not retain the original paperwork.

as always, kids having fun..!

Edited November 5, 2016 by Plymouthy Adams

[58prostreet]

I have a 9000 lb. Eagle 2 post , model MTP-9F that was installed in August, 2011. It has a floor plate and 113" posts. The floor plate is no problem for me but may be if you are changing transmissions.I have 12' ceilings and my Dodge Wayfarer has plenty of clearance at full lift. There is approximately 6' clearance under car. The lift is symmetrical, but I don't have a problem getting in or out of car and I have sizable gut. I put split foam pipe insulation on upright where door would hit. Lift is 220v and requires 20amp svc, but I have 30. Also, I have  Dalton I drive automatic door opener which has no center rail. Something to consider if u have automatic doors. I have had no problems with the lift and am very happy with it and feel safe working under it. I paid $2000 for it new. That was for lift, delivery and install. Came from Greensboro, N.C. to Va. Beach, Va.

Bob