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Plus One ---- Ton


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I kinda wondered about the springs, but I am a fir tree mechanic at best ( NW version of shade tree) not a clue.

Also, came to mind, if i knew the two valves I can't get past 14 were the problem, then I might be able to lower the ones at 18 to 14 a it would be good?

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If you can't get it past 14, I suspect the valve face or seat or both is worn badly, possibly burnt.  That will also give you that popping if it's just starting to burn.  It won't get any better.  14 won't be an issue until it get warmed up well and expansion reduces the clearance.  Unless you're working it hard I doubt it will get close enough to close the gap and hold the valve open.

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Thanks JB, probably going to let that task ride for a while if I can. think i'll just run it and address if/when I need to take the head off again :)

 

wanted  to share something I made to remove the fuel tank sending unit ring. nothing fancy and I know a screwdriver or pliers work but, I had a 8" section of 2-1/4" pipe and tacked on some 1/4" rod to pick up the ring ears/tabs, and drilled a hole through the other end 

 

attachicon.gifsend unit tool (2).JPGattachicon.gifsend unit tool (3).JPGattachicon.gifsend unit tool (1).JPG

 

I'm going to make this.....cuz you shouldn't be the only one to have one...lol. 

I'll send you a royalty fee too, cuz I hate it when someone else's hard work is treated like something free! :lol:

 

48D

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If you can't get it past 14, I suspect the valve face or seat or both is worn badly, possibly burnt.  That will also give you that popping if it's just starting to burn.  It won't get any better.  14 won't be an issue until it get warmed up well and expansion reduces the clearance.  Unless you're working it hard I doubt it will get close enough to close the gap and hold the valve open.

crap, there is my DUH moment for the day :) I was so busy looking at the tappet adjuster, didn't even consider the other end of things.... makes sense. when the head comes off again, and I replace the valves,  I'm still going to test those springs and look closer at the guides..  

 

I'm going to make this.....cuz you shouldn't be the only one to have one...lol. 

I'll send you a royalty fee too, cuz I hate it when someone else's hard work is treated like something free! :lol:

 

48D

 Thanks Man! please start me a "burger" account... i'll collect it next year sometime :D

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Chrysler Master Tech - Story of Valves

 

this vid echoes lots of information passed on by other members...very informative :cool:

 

thanks JB! appreciate it and very informative is right!

 

and comedy......  "Listen my boy, all Mikes muscles tell him when the head is down tight" :lol:

 

although i had to watch it twice..... first time I kept thinking "where do I get a hat like that" :D

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  • 2 months later...

pulled the headliner out to pop out the roof dent this past weekend

headliner (1).JPGheadliner (2).JPG

I was thinking I might try and clean it up and use the expanded metal backing and glue it to the liner to keep the original cardboard .... not sure yet if it will work

roof before.JPGB4D (1).JPG

 

I was admiring the truck (as I often do :)) as it was starting to get dark.... anyone know what are the two drop down sections (above the spare tire mount) are for? I was thinking they were to hold the spare tire in place but I don't see them on my B3B's

B4D (2).JPG

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Are there another set of "boxes" like that under the back end of the truck?  Those two almost look like brackets for slide-in ramps.  Or someone put them there to help steady the spare without having to tighten it all the way up against the frame.

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2 hours ago, Bobacuda said:

Are there another set of "boxes" like that under the back end of the truck?  Those two almost look like brackets for slide-in ramps.  Or someone put them there to help steady the spare without having to tighten it all the way up against the frame.

no other set, end of the frame. I looked again tonight and they are riveted in place.... looks factory to me.

hanger.jpghanger (2).jpg

 

not really centered with the tire carrier either. I didn't know if it was a B4 thing or a 1 ton thing..... word around the campfire is it was possibly a water truck or something like that before the wood bed was installed in the 70's not sure if that would have anything to do with it or not...

 

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On ‎11‎/‎9‎/‎2016 at 5:47 AM, JBNeal said:

If that cross member is bent upwards then them riveted brackets were holding the tire down onto the carrier...their spacing appears to allow for the rim offset :cool:

so it does...... :)

 

spare.jpgspare (1).jpg

 

mystery solved.... just hadn't seen it before.

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  • 5 months later...

just updating this thread. I have worked this past winter on the brakes, got it stopping,  threw the headliner back in and drove the truck to the top of my road a couple times in preparation to drive it onto a trailer and haul it to CA for the BBQ.

drove fine onto the trailer to load it (except for it being ALL OVER THE ROAD) towed fine..... but then gave me fits driving it off the trailer and parking it for the show.

had a bunch of help trying to figure out the issue/s (many thanks again, guys)

I changed the batter cables at the recommendation of Merle. I went to a #00 - I am a fan! cables.JPG.ac666dbb3ea5924d9dc3f31f21451bc6.JPG

this weekend I pulled the head again to replace the valves and test the springs..... I took the springs down to a local "cylinder head shop" and they asked me what the "install height was"  (caught me off guard) I showed them the book that said 107 to 115 ft lbs at 1- 3/8"   am I missing something or are they just not use to a flathead? 

  

 

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I believe the install height has to do with when the spring is seated against the block and valve keeper lock disk with the keepers in place and with the valve seated in the block, which sounds like the 1-3/8" dimension.

And I agree, new battery cables yield surprisingly good results after dealing with the headache of high impedance batt.cables :cool:

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ok, I cleaned the springs, keepers ect. in "Berrymans" (photo before)

 

springs.jpg.b94a7541d1f6f5398f4217f93f236707.jpg

I had the cylinder head shop check the spring tension giving him the specs the book calls out at 107-115lbs @1-3/8" and he said mine are100 lbs each. so I went for a second opinion....... the second shop said between 80- 85lbs and gave me some "shims" to add at the block where the valve seats. hard to believe that little thin shim would make the difference.........

shims.jpg.219ab413fc98e4ebc869375ecfe5efb4.jpg

I am debating adding the shims or just order new springs and hope they are the 107-115lbs.... (open to suggestions)

 

picked up some new valves and asked why the groves on all the old intakes

intake.jpg.9023a3c833ca73e96f38be80a88a1358.jpg

nobody knows but there are theories

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You could get replacement springs and have them tested for a comparison... I have read that if there is any damage to the spring wire surface, then the springs should be replaced regardless of how much compression force they can withstand.  The reasoning was that oxidation from moisture inside the valve chambers (i.e. ambient humidity and condensation), as well as any acidic issues with sludge formations, damages the surface of the spring wire, which can cause weakness in the spring or eventual failure.  I recall the surfaces of the springs in the '48 and '49 were not smooth compared with the NORS springs I found on eBay several years ago, and made a mental note to address that.  As for the shims, I think they are used to keep the valves from "floating" above the tappets at high rpms by assisting in adding more compression to the spring, a kind of pre-load for lack of a better term :cool:

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Springs are supposed to have a certain amount of tension at a specific height.  That said, every time the valves and seats are ground, that installed height changes as well as various differences in how the spring seats  were machined in the head itself.  They have been used to "adjust" spring tension as well as adjust installed height.  If you were hardcore blueprinting the engine, there's a lot of time and money that could be spent in this area. most of which you'll never see or feel on a stock engine driven the way most of these will be.

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  • 3 months later...

update for all you 2017 BBQ goers (and others interested :)) got it running again Thursday night! (still need to fine tune a little)

 

Saturday took it for a test drive to a local car show......

5990807a18331_cccshow(2)(1024x768).jpg.84a4b23caabadddc672458cb78ce8217.jpg

what a blast!

thank you everyone who helped work on it at the "Q" and via PM and phone.  

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Congratulations Brent!

Sounds pretty good for sure....

That's gotta make you feel good!

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5 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

Congratulations Brent!

Sounds pretty good for sure....

That's gotta make you feel good!

cloud 9 my friend!

i do have to reeducate myself on how to drive for sure and defiantly some fine tuning of the carb and steering, etc.  and that stinking noisy throw out bearing :)

all baby steps, time and money.

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  • 1 year later...

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