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So I bought a 1950 B2C in very good shape - have few questions


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Truck is a 1950 B2C with Fluid Drive and 4 speed on floor. (For pictures, see my other post.)  I Start out in 2nd, but when shifting between gears there is a short grind until gear kicks in.  Could this just be a clutch pedal adjustment or something else?

 

Truck is green with green grille bars.  I read, and saw pictures, in Don Bunn's book that the original body colored grille bars had a Sun Yellow (same color as the wheels) pin stripe along the bottom edge.  I think this would look sharp. I think I would prefer that over the stainless grille bars. But people seem to love those stainless grille bars.  I know it personal taste, but are the stainless preferable? I guess there's a guy that sells the stainless set on ebay for $1200.  Any opinions?

 

Truck has good glass in windshield (with new seal), and good rear and corner glass (needs new seals).  Driver and Passenger windows and vents are cracked a need replaced.  Any place better than another when ordering glass?

 

I have it in a body shop now that specializes in restorations - getting some minor dings and bad rippley bondo areas straightened out.  I think I'll have them do the glass so it will be done and be done right - I think that may be over my pay grade.

 

Truck is Forest Green now with black bed and back fenders.  I'm tempted to have it painted a two tone "Spring Edition" color, but my 11 year old son insists that it stay the color it is now... we'll see.

 

If anyone has any contacts, I do need original bumpers and mirrors.

 

Any advice on shouler seat belts - brand or type that fits better than others?

 

 

I know that's a lot of questions - so thank you for your time

 

Big Easy 

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Welcome to the Pilot-House family. I too have a '50 B2C with FD and 4 speed. Your transmission is a spur gear type, meaning that there are no synchronizers to assist with gear shifting. This means that you need to learn the art of the "double-clutch". Depress the clutch and shift to neutral, let up on the clutch as the engine RPM comes down, (this slows the input shaft to match the next gear), The step down on the clutch pedal again and select the next gear. It'll take some practice to get the timing right, but you can then shift without grinding the gears. Down shifts are a bit more tricky as you then need to rev up the engine between clutch applications to speed up the input shaft to match the lower gear.

 

I vote for keeping it green and black, but I'm a bit biased that way. ;)post-31-0-42530800-1465822567_thumb.jpg

 

The flat laminated glass can be cut by any competent automotive glass shop. They can use the existing glass as a pattern.

 

Bumper brackets, and possible bumpers, can be found at DCM Classics or Roberts Motor Parts. The bumper may be the difficult part to find, but they're out there.

 

Merle

 

 

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Big Easy

The body shop is best for body work and glass. Don't miss out on a bonding moment with your Son on the color, paints cheep, bonding moments are rare with an 11 year old Son. I also need a seat and mirrors. May the wind be at your back. Charles Stephenson

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While it is in the body shop you may want to consider beefing up the B post attachments for your 3 point seat belt mounts. Not a huge job but one best done before paint.

Jeff

do you have any pictures or suggestions on how to do this. seatbelts are something ive thought about adding for a while but i too had concerns about the pillar strength.

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do you have any pictures or suggestions on how to do this. seatbelts are something ive thought about adding for a while but i too had concerns about the pillar strength.

I have a welder buddy who spot welded the sheet metal connections and made up a couple of plates that slipped up behind all this to reinforce the connection points. Other than the belts themselves you would never know it had been modified.

 

Jeff

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