1949 Plymouth Deluxe Help

[1949Plymouth]

Hi to all,

 

New here to the forums from New Zealand. Having just purchased a 49 Pylmouth, have stripped ready to re build. As this car didn't come with motor and gearbox have decided on using a 318 motor and 3 speed auto box.

My questions are the following;

 

1. As the stock diff would now be unsuitable what would be a good replacement for this.

 

2. Am happy to use stock 4 wheel drum brakes. Has anyone else kept these?

 

3. Fitting 318 motor what mods did anyone encounter?

 

4. When I got this car it has miss matched wheels and rims. What is the correct 15" wheel size? Am looking at having narrow from and slightly wider wheel at the rear.

 

Looking forward to all the help and advise that can be offered.

[knuckleharley]

Hi to all,

 

New here to the forums from New Zealand. Having just purchased a 49 Pylmouth, have stripped ready to re build. As this car didn't come with motor and gearbox have decided on using a 318 motor and 3 speed auto box.

My questions are the following;

 

1. As the stock diff would now be unsuitable what would be a good replacement for this.

 

Why would the stock diff be unsuitable? Are you going to pump the 318 up to 400+ HP and add traction bars and wide slicks to the rear to hook up solid leaving the line?

 

If you are just going to drive the car and have fun with it,the original diff is just fine,and MY suggestion would be to adopt the mindset that states "If it ain't broke,don't fix it" at this stage. There is going to be no shortage of other things to spend your money on before you get the car back on the road. If you decide later you want front and rear disc brakes,you can always install a Explorer or similar rear end later.

 

And yes,lots of people are still driving these things all over the place with the stock drum brakes on them. My only suggestion at this point is that you look for a non-power brake dual outlet master cylinder to replace the original single outlet master cylinder for safety purposes,and replace ALL the brake lines,both steel and rubber while you are at it. Use the new brake lines that are a copper/nickel alloy  that can be bent by hand without kinking and never have to worry about rust inside or outside of the brake lines.  While you are at it,use the same type of brake line,but larger,for the fuel line and not have to worry about it rusting from the inside due to ethanol,and replace all the rubber gas lines and plastic fuel filters with ones rated for use with ethanol.

Edited May 5, 2016 by knuckleharley

[greg g]

Typically in the US there is a manifold steering box interference situation that needs dealing with if the stock steering is retained.  Easiest fix is to offset the engine (like the actory did when they put V8's in A body cars) about 2 inches to gain the needed clearence.  Don't know if your car is left hand or right hand drive and if the problem is still there with both set ups.  

[mrwrstory]

"Use the new brake lines that are a copper/nickel allow  that can be bent by hand without kinking"

This is a new one for me.  Last I heard about copper lines is, "don't ever use them!"  I hope others will chime in as I would either like to get smarter re this or have my belief, that copper lines are a no no, amplified. 

​Also re the rear-end, you may find that the stocker is too low a ratio for comfortable "modern driving".  With the install of modern power and transmission, and if you have the opportunity to cruise @ 60 MPH or more, a taller gear will let the engine run at a more comfortable speed and mileage will be improved.  You can also make this determination after the car is running and drivable.

[TodFitch]

. . .This is a new one for me.  Last I heard about copper lines is, "don't ever use them!"  I hope others will chime in as I would either like to get smarter re this or have my belief, that copper lines are a no no, amplified. . .

 

 

Typical seamed soft coper tubing is definitely a no no. But there is a copper-nickel alloy that is designed for brake tubing and I believe is used on at least some current production cars. One brand is named Cunifer and a quick web search turns up, among others, the following supplier: http://www.fedhillusa.com

[mopar_earl]

Nicopp is ment for brake tubing. It won't rust/corrode like metal. It's easier to bend and flare than stainless. It can be bought anywhere. I used nicopp on my car for the brake lines and fuel lines. I also used stainless steel flare nuts. I used dot 5 brake fluid.

So yes, it's safe and legal to use nicopp! Actually it's a smart thing to do.

Copper is and will always be unsafe and illegal to use for brakes! Just like compression fittings.

Earl

[1949Plymouth]

Thanks all for some feed back.

I should have added to this, this is our first project. It is a family project 5 kids as well.

This Plymouth was made in LA and stayed in the area. Was shipped to New Zealand in 2008 from Las Vegas.

 

Steering box is to be left hand drive. All original as in states.

 

Re Stock rear end. I would rather update to newer as I would like to rebuild car properly first time round. What sort of ratio would you suggest?

 

Thoughts at the moment are to update when needed e.g. Brakes, but would like to keep original drum setup back and front if possible.

 

Lower car approx. 2" by spring lowering not by using blocks, but wish to keep the majority of car stock.

 

With brake master cylinder is there a bolt on cylinder available in states to bolt exactly where original sits (thought I saw but cant find again).?

 

Stock steering as in states( left hand drive).

 

Bushes for front / rear suspension where is the best place that you guys have found? Is there other bush types rather than the rubber?

 

But pretty much anything that could be of help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Tony

[deathbound]

If going with the 318 & auto trans, you will lose you e-brake from the stock trans. Just a guess here, but I think you'll need a rear end with intergrated e-brake. Some go with a 3.73 or 3.55 rear from mid 90's Jeep Cherokees, others have used Ford Explorer (sorry, Exploder for the Ford haters). I think Butch's Cool Stuff sells motor mount kits for the 318. Good luck and welcome. You should be hearing from Andydodge soon.

Edited May 4, 2016 by deathbound

[mrwrstory]

Thank you Earl and TodFitch.  That's a new one for me.  "Copper" jumped right out at me and I shot from the lip.   Apologies to 49Plymouth.  Sounds like a sound product and definitely one to have in mind for the next project.

[1949Plymouth]

Just an update from New Zealand.

Have decided to stay stock.

Have repainted chassis and are now rebuilding front end.

Have also just purchased a rebuilt '35 Dodge senior motor.

So any any help on where to get parts etc would be greatly appreciated.