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218 rough idle


ol'skool

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You do know that it is never going to run well at 12" to 14" of vacuum. I think I would try it at a timing setting that is close to 18" of vacuum. Then try and adjust the carb to get a higher vacuum reading. And then see if detonation and overheating are an issue. If they are then back the timing off a few degrees and try that.

 

Jeff

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Yeah, the vacuum ready sucks, literally, 12-14.  Only way I can get it up to normal is advance the timing to 10 degrees.  Then it jumps to 18 and idle great and is responsive.

10 degrees according to the damper, this could be out, set it to the highest vacuum, and back off slightly, set yur idle mixture screw the same way, then set idle speed, go for a ride, see what you have.

Set yur points first, check all plug gaps too, then tune as described, then go for a drive and see.

if pinging like a bugger, then there is an issue......

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Ok.  Got the breaker plate in with new points/condenser, cap and rotor.  Got it running.  Barely ran.  Checked timing, it was so far advanced I could barely see the mark.  Retarded the timing, idled better but I'm all the way to the stop on the base of the distributor.  Going to check the bolt to the block and see if I can get more adjustment to retard it even further.  I would like to get it in the 3-5 range.  It is running better.  It did smooth out and idled better at 450 rpm range.  Still have to set dwell.  Right now timing is 9 degrees, can't retard timing anymore.  Looks like the pertronix unit was really messing with timing.  I swapped everything out leaving the distributor in the car so I know the timing wasn't messed with.  Until tomorrow....

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Before I left, I checked the adjustment for the base plate to the engine block.  It was all the way counterclockwise.  Loosened it, set the bolt near the middle and tightened.  Went back checked timing, now it was retarded.  Loosened bolt on underside of distributor and set it at 4 degrees and it runs much better, even at 430-450 rpm it stays running.  That tells me that the pertronix wasn't firing at the right time.  That whole lobe sensing was messed up.  I'm going return it and get my money back on it.  I'll do a complete check and make all the necessary adjustments, i.e. dwell, timing, carb mixture screws, etc.  Maybe take it for it's first drive of the year tomorrow or Sunday if I have time.  So I am going to have to install a ballast resistor too.  I have no idea if the coil is internally reduced or not.  It doesn't say on it or stamped.  I don't want to fry the points.  Going to have to install one of those also.  

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Were you running solid wire plug wires with the Pertronix?.  Unless it's specifically designed to run with solid wires, those wires can confuse the pickup sensors in pointless systems and make it do things it shouldn't.

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Were you running solid wire plug wires with the Pertronix?. Unless it's specifically designed to run with solid wires, those wires can confuse the pickup sensors in pointless systems and make it do things it shouldn't.

Yes it's listed on their instructions and/or web site not to use solid core wires. Also never use a ballast on electronic ignition. Need good wiring with good tight clean connections. Electronics doesn't like low voltage. Could have a bad one. I'd get it replaced under warranty and give a try. Most ppl have no trouble with the Pertronixs. Remember, a Pertronix kit won't fix a worn out distributor. It won't fix a worn or broken vac advance or worn or broken mech advance.

Earl

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