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Fuel tank repair


doogan

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In the process of restoring my 49 B1 I thought I was finished with the running gear until..........................Got the chassis and running gear all rebuilt and installed then cranked up the engine.  All was great until crud appeared in the fuel filter bowl.  Power down and removed the tank.  After dumping the fuel out, add some new fuel and dump again there was a double handful of what looked like some rust particles.  After several of these rinses it seems nothing else is coming out. 

 

Now, has anyone used these sealers I see advertised on various sites?   Do they work?  Should I go this route or would I be better off finding and installing a new tank?   About all I have seen new are up to 1948.  Will these work on the 1949?  Being relatively new to the Mopar restoration I am finding it difficult locating a tank for the 49.

 

Thanks in advance guys.

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The new tanks are now available, but somewhat pricey from what I've seen...but a new tank is always the best choice for peace of mind and a guarantee that you won't have more rust flake off, or pin holes develop. The liner I've seen used was the POR 15, and I've heard good things

http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Fuel-Tank-Sealer_p_64.html

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I am dropping my tank off today at Gas Tank Renu in SoCal. It supposed to have a lifetime warranty after repaired and coated. I will report back when I get her back in a week or two.

I also had mine done by Gas Tank Renu (here in Michigan).  I highly recommend them!

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  • 2 weeks later...

I got my tank back today. Not happy with the service at all. The coating looks fine and hopefully works good. However, they didnt remove any dents and pretty it up like the ones on thier website. For almost $600, I am pretty upset with the service and would not recommend the SoCal location to anyone.

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They won't generally remove dents....it can cause cracks in the metal. They told me as such when I brought mine in.

Besides that way Jeff can see the "history" in the truck

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Thanks for the Heads up about the So Cal / Bellflower  Place, I called them and  was told $300 -$ 695 for them to repair mine. I think I am going to look into a repop from tanks inc

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They dont make a repop for the 54... so this was my only choice.

 

As for the dents, its frustrating when you see the photos of really beat up tanks on their website that then look like new after restoring. It would be nice if they mentioned that in the first place.

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I took a day trip down to Waller a few days ago to visit with the Renu guys down there about a tank that I got with a whole trailer full of parts a few years ago. They were very busy and shot me their price at a glance of the tank without looking at it thoroughly. The top of the tank is in good condition; the bottom, not so much: rust-through in places, mashed at the draw tube. When I pointed this out, they hesitantly said that it would be much higher to get it straight, even mentioned replacing the tank with a cheaper substitute than using their process. I inquired about cutting the tank open myself, doing the tin-knocking and reworking the draw tube after cutting 2" above the perimeter seam weld. They agreed that would be a much cheaper route, for me to do the preliminary metal work, and they could shot blast and weld it back together to complete the process for slightly higher than the original price they quoted. So I am gonna take a stab at that, taking a few pics along the way to document the work.

FYI I believe the '54 tank is the same as the '53 :cool:

Edited by JBNeal
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They won't generally remove dents....it can cause cracks in the metal. They told me as such when I brought mine in.

Besides that way Jeff can see the "history" in the truck

Ha ha ha Mark. But I can SEE why the OP is upset. My local old time radiator shop cleaned, repaired and lined my tank for $200. Some of these proprietary type shops are way too expensive for the services they offer.

 

Jeff

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I dunno JB... from the link you posted, my 54 tank is different than all 3 in the pics. Its closest to the center one, but mine is not recatangluar and tapers off in the front. Also, the fill neck is closer to the edge. I believe the 54 and up frame is different than the earlier models.

 

Fuel%20Tank%20Restored_zps0yujvwef.jpg

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Well I opted to use the POR-15 product instead of a new tank.  My tank didn't actually leak and was in great shape on the outside for its age.  Better than I can say for myself !!!!  It seems to be working fine as I've had it full of fuel for a week now and no leaks. 

 

After cleaning out by first putting in a gallon of new fuel, sloshing around, dumping into a container and straining the crud out this was done several times.  Once the rinsing gas seemed to come out without much crud the tank was filled half way with hot water and some dishwashing detergent.  Again some sloshing around, pour out and repeat several times until all looked clean.  Next I dropped in a small length of chain like for a swing and turned the tank over and over several times, more hot water and detergent, remove the chain and dry out the tank with a heat gun. 

 

Following the instructions with the POR-15 all went well and now back in the truck and seems to work great.  A word of caution.........USE GLOVES, yes USE GLOVES.  I did after getting some of the sealer on my hands but too late.   NOTHING will remove that stuff as I tried everything in the garage and house from paint thinner to brillo pads.  But if you are like me and prefer to not use gloves it will wear off in 3-4 days.

 

Good luck and thanks guys!

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Well I opted to use the POR-15 product instead of a new tank.  My tank didn't actually leak and was in great shape on the outside for its age.  Better than I can say for myself !!!!  It seems to be working fine as I've had it full of fuel for a week now and no leaks. 

 

After cleaning out by first putting in a gallon of new fuel, sloshing around, dumping into a container and straining the crud out this was done several times.  Once the rinsing gas seemed to come out without much crud the tank was filled half way with hot water and some dishwashing detergent.  Again some sloshing around, pour out and repeat several times until all looked clean.  Next I dropped in a small length of chain like for a swing and turned the tank over and over several times, more hot water and detergent, remove the chain and dry out the tank with a heat gun. 

 

Following the instructions with the POR-15 all went well and now back in the truck and seems to work great.  A word of caution.........USE GLOVES, yes USE GLOVES.  I did after getting some of the sealer on my hands but too late.   NOTHING will remove that stuff as I tried everything in the garage and house from paint thinner to brillo pads.  But if you are like me and prefer to not use gloves it will wear off in 3-4 days.

 

Good luck and thanks guys!

 

ALL the POR products are that way....

 

which in my mind is a good thing.

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It looks like the '53 tank was the same shape as the '54, with the top half having embossments for the filler neck in 3 locations...I reckon the B-4 frame and tank changes were already figured into the upcoming C-series for the cost savings of not having that rear bracket used on the '48-'52 models.

 

large.smIMG_20160315_194259.jpg.119819d2cf4af86c2ad227e6f4dad33a.jpg

 

large.smIMG_20160315_194206.jpg.0f83aaedd5333b62d5617ba6d4d80042.jpg

Edited by JBNeal
revised pictures
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