Dbalfisto Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 1933 PD Plymouth, rebuilt .060 over 1500 miles ago, recored radiator, just popped freeze plugs, hardly any gunk, seems to circulate, tested tstat, opens 168, even removed it for a while, brakes not binding, timing correct. Used to run 50 miles before gradually overheating. Today with fresh antifreeze and approx 28 deg ambient it spewed and belched out radiator after only 3 miles. Spewed all way back. How do I check for compression into the cooling system. Car is a full restoration and has been in family since new, mine singe 1968. Can see the rebuild about 12 years ago on Tod Fitch's site 1933 Plymouth. Sorry to resurrect an old subject but I have exhausted the earlier ideas posted. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Roberts Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 " How do I check for compression into the cooling system ? " With the engine running , look into the radiator for air bubbles . Or do a compression check for a leaky head gasket . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feudin_Wagon Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Lisle makes a product for testing for combustion gases in the cooling system. Part #75500. Around $25-$30. It works pretty well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knuckleharley Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 1933 PD Plymouth, rebuilt .060 over 1500 miles ago, recored radiator, just popped freeze plugs, hardly any gunk, seems to circulate, tested tstat, opens 168, even removed it for a while, brakes not binding, timing correct. Used to run 50 miles before gradually overheating. Today with fresh antifreeze and approx 28 deg ambient it spewed and belched out radiator after only 3 miles. Spewed all way back. How do I check for compression into the cooling system. Car is a full restoration and has been in family since new, mine singe 1968. Can see the rebuild about 12 years ago on Tod Fitch's site 1933 Plymouth. Sorry to resurrect an old subject but I have exhausted the earlier ideas posted. Thanks. Given your known history of the car I think the first thing I would suspect is a faulty water pump. Maybe the impeller is loose on the shaft and not spinning as fast as it should? Plus it is a cheap to check to see if that's what it is. All it would cost to check the shaft and impeller would be the time to remove and replace the pump,plus make a gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpollo Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 I think Knuckleharley has the answer. Ran into this on a slant-six, years ago. If not a loose impeller then something is preventing water circulation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niel Hoback Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Is there a spring in the lower radiator hose to keep it from collapsing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captden29 Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 would love to know the outcome on this as I have done all the aforementioned things to my 265 engine and it still runs too hot. the only thing still to be done is to check the heat riser, but not too keen on pulling the manifold. capt den Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P15-D24 Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Did you pull the water distribution tube and clean during the rebuild. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Given your known history of the car I think the first thing I would suspect is a faulty water pump. Maybe the impeller is loose on the shaft and not spinning as fast as it should? Plus it is a cheap to check to see if that's what it is. All it would cost to check the shaft and impeller would be the time to remove and replace the pump,plus make a gasket. Could well be: Your current symptoms sound a lot like what I dealt with when I first got my '33. Without a thermostat it would belch water occasionally. WIth a thermostat the temperature at the back of the block where the sensor is would sky rocket until enough warm water got to the front to open the thermostat. When I pulled the water pump because there was a slight weep from the bearings, the impeller fell off in my hands. From the look of the wear pattern on the shaft I guessed that the problem had been there for a long time. Putting a new impeller and shaft in fixed that problem and also got the after market heater to start putting out heat. Did you pull the water distribution tube and clean during the rebuild. No water distribution tube until 1935. The '33 and '34 block is a bit narrower than the later ones. They widened the block to allow for the water distribution tube and the full length water jacket. Means the head gasket for '33 and '34 is different that '35 and up, all the other gaskets are the same (valve cover, oil pan, manifold, etc.) though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbalfisto Posted February 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 Yep, no water distribution tube but i will now pursue the water pump. Tough job as on this model requires removal of grille and radiator unless someone knows a trick I don't. I do have a fresh rebuilt water pump. Btw rebuilt and carbon free heat riser already there. Oh and FYI, the water pump on the early cars like mine differs from all later cars making cores a bit hard to find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 Yep, no water distribution tube but i will now pursue the water pump. Tough job as on this model requires removal of grille and radiator unless someone knows a trick I don't. I do have a fresh rebuilt water pump. Btw rebuilt and carbon free heat riser already there. Oh and FYI, the water pump on the early cars like mine differs from all later cars making cores a bit hard to find. Mounting holes are the same, so the newer style pump will bolt on. The inlet to the block is different but that can be dealt with by making a custom back plate for the newer style pump. So, if worse comes to worse, you can with a little work use a newer pump. Internals of the '33/'34 pump are the same as later so rebuild kits are easy to find, or send it off to get rebuild. I happen to have a spare that I keep rebuilt on the shelf. If/when the pump fails, I swap with the spare then get the failed one rebuilt to become the new spare. I've never taken the grill shell and radiator off to get the water pump off. With a bit of patience and skinned knuckles you can get the four bolts that hold the fan off and then remove the fan. The long stud by the generator will need to get unthreaded from the block, but other than that, there should be enough clearance with the fan off to slide the pump forward and off the short studs. At least that is true with my PD. On a PC or PCXX the clearance might be slightly different. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
46Ply Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 Knuckleheadharley wrote: (Putting a new impeller and shaft in fixed that problem and also got the after market heater to start putting out heat.) This might be a good (test) to consider if you have a problem of this nature. Not that this is related, but I put a new heater core in mine, and I'm now amazed at how quickly it puts out heat on a real cold day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbalfisto Posted February 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 I've never taken the grill shell and radiator off to get the water pump off. With a bit of patience and skinned knuckles you can get the four bolts that hold the fan off and then remove the fan. The long stud by the generator will need to get unthreaded from the block, but other than that, there should be enough clearance with the fan off to slide the pump forward and off the short studs. At least that is true with my PD. On a PC or PCXX the clearance might be slightly different. yep, it is that long stud that gets me. fearful of shearing it. But hey, then I know I have done everything to try to avoid removal of the radiator. BTW, thanks for your kind and ever cogent responses here and elsewhere I have read. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 yep, it is that long stud that gets me. fearful of shearing it. But hey, then I know I have done everything to try to avoid removal of the radiator. BTW, thanks for your kind and ever cogent responses here and elsewhere I have read. Most studs are available in your local auto supply. And for those that are not available, I've been able to take a bolt with a long unthreaded portion and cut the head off and thread the shank as needed. Only issue would be if the stud breaks off in the block. In that case you'd need to remove the radiator to get a straight shot at it with a left handed drill and "easy out" (usually not easy in my experience). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbalfisto Posted April 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2016 Finally got back to the issue, some family issues demanded that this go on back burner for a while. After sourcing a head gasket I elected to pull the head. It was somewhat warped so had local machine shop magnaflux and plane the head. Started right u Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbalfisto Posted April 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2016 Sorted right up and cool as a cucumber. Can see the tstat cycle on the fuel guage. Even though I saw no definitive evidence on the old head gasket, this apparently was the issue.. I am thrilled and ready for the cruising season. Thanks to all for the input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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