Rear axle shaft nut torque on a 34

[Rob]

Dose anyone know the torque on the rear axle shaft nut for the 34 Plymouth or the best way to install the drums. i dont want to over tighten the bearings?

[Plymouthy Adams]

the bearings are not set by the torque on the axle nut...later model of this axle is all I have the torque value for...I do not have a book back to 1934...my36-42 shows no torque reference....46's up get 142 Ft. Lb. min

 

axle free play of .003 to .008 is set by shims..

Edited January 19, 2016 by Plymouthy Adams

[Don Coatney]

Is the axle nut a castellated nut using a cotter pin to lock it in place same as a P-15? If so tighten it until you can no longer turn it, then back off enough to install the cotter pin.  

 

Back in the day when I was dealing with threaded ammonia refrigeration tapered pipe fittings the standard was, Tighten it until it will no longer turn then go one more round    That is not the case in your axle nut.

[TodFitch]

Part number for the castellated nut on the '33 and '34 is the same as the number for the 1946-48 P15. I figure if it is the same nut it should get the same torque so I install mine with the 142 ft-lbs mentioned by Plymouthy Adams.

 

1934 is the first year they published a factory service manual. You should see if you can find one or find a reprint of one. Torque values for various things didn't start to get published until a bit later. The later the manual the more torque values you'll find. Early on they simply expected a good mechanic to have a feel for this type of thing, later on it seems they decided they should spec out more and more stuff.

 

For what it is worth, the torque values I've found I have put at http://www.ply33.com/Repair/torque

[Young Ed]

Is the axle nut a castellated nut using a cotter pin to lock it in place same as a P-15? If so tighten it until you can no longer turn it, then back off enough to install the cotter pin.  

 

Back in the day when I was dealing with threaded ammonia refrigeration tapered pipe fittings the standard was, Tighten it until it will no longer turn then go one more round    That is not the case in your axle nut.

Actually for the rear axle nuts that is the case. Or at least tighten until you cant and then go to the next hole. Not something you want lose.

 

When I first built my 46 pickup I occasionally had an odd clunking noise when starting off. Eventually figured it was only happening after backing up. My axle nuts weren't tight enough and the drum was slipping on the axle. When I would back up it would move against the other side of the key. Not sure why I never heard a noise going backwards. If I hadn't figured that out I would have eventually damaged the key or the drum.