DJ194950 Posted May 3, 2016 Report Share Posted May 3, 2016 Have your machine shop after complete tear down sonic test it to see if re-sleeving your block is a good idea?? DJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John-T-53 Posted May 3, 2016 Report Share Posted May 3, 2016 Well it has been a while but i have made some progress. The doors are being rebuilt right now (the lower eight inches), the frame is stripped and i am working little by little on cleaning, welding, priming, and painting. The motor is torn down other than the # 6 piston which is seized so badly i can not get it to move with a 6lb hammer. Once I get it out the block will go to the machine shop to be decked, bored, and hot tanked. Overall the truck is in much worse shape than i thought it was in and i am seeing my august 24th initial test drive to dinner day coming a lot faster than i was hoping it would. Update: I just knocked the #6 piston out and the cylinder wall is so pitted that you can take a screw driver and knock holes into the water jacket. so it looks like this block is trashed i guess i will be on the look out for another block. How about some pics? I had my #6 sleeved as well, and there was a very slight pitting from the water jacket coming through back in 2010, according to the machinist at the time. If a total bust, blocks are not rare. I think you can even order one from Vintage Power Wagons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocko_51_B3B Posted May 14, 2016 Report Share Posted May 14, 2016 I think it's great that you are going for originality. I'm doing the same on my '51 b3b including correct body, engine, lettering colors. B3bKeven did a fine job on my instruments and I bought an original color coded reproduction wiring harness from Rhode Island Wiring. Stuff's not inexpensive, but if you want to do it right, sometimes you gotta pay up. And the info I've gotten from this site and Bunn's book is invaluable. Are you doing a complete frame-off? I hope so! Looks like you have a very nice truck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil363 Posted August 4, 2016 Report Share Posted August 4, 2016 (edited) https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/materials-and-grades/bolt-grade-chart.aspx Here is a link to bolt identification markings this is extremely handy when digging through an assortment of bolts. I found the link you mentioned above (and forum member oldmopar in a Nov 2008 post) very useful to first understanding how bolts are graded and the markings that identify each type of bolt and nut etc ... They have all of the bolts I have so far identified on my Dodge as I go my collection of baggies full of rusted nuts and bolts. The baggies were recommended by several members here and have kept me on track storing all of my small parts. Have been using my Trucks parts manual to find the correct size for the cab, door, fender bolts and then ordering then from here. Going mostly stainless steel for the 5/16 and 3/8 bolts and nuts. Will go with the grade 5 or 8 were required on my project. Phil Edited August 4, 2016 by Phil363 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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