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Dual exhaust


stan's52

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Don,why the balance tube? Does it help improve the power or the sound in a inline engine?

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you can et all sorts of straight and mandrel bent pipe sections to build your system and it will serve the very purpose of allowing the exhaust to flow to the rear of the vehicle.  BUT for the money and time and such, a local shop should be able to do your job very cost effectively and with maintenance in mind with key disconnects should you need to do so.  I have done a couple systems at home...but for over all looks and fewer joints to weld....hard to beat the custom tubing..

 

number of articles on the internet on the crossover/balance tube as to purpose and what one my better suit your system...

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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This is one thing I would have done at a shop...This along with installing the windshield.

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Not quite a dual exhaust- I'm running dual Carters with a George Asche split intake and exhaust manifolds. I had a local muffler shop that had been in business 30 years and knew what they were doing, split the exhaust pipe, then combine back into a single pipe. Because of the layout of the gas tank on the woodie, they was no room for dual pipes. When I asked them about exessive back-pressure, they said that they used to do it all the time with bigger V-8s with no apparent loss of breathing capacity. They did a lot of racing work back in ancient times. Runs and sounds great. Picked up a bit of power too, compared to single carb and exhaust. With the OD, I can do 65 all day long, which is a little scary in a car made out of toothpicks!

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Anyone build their own dual exhaust system? I found several places to buy pipe

pieces with different bends. If anyone has attempted this how much success did

you have, or did you end up with a big box of pipe pieces you didn't use? Stan

 

 

 

For my 38 Coupe, I made my own exhaust system, using a hydraulic bender, (about $70),

bought 2 inch exhaust pipes from local shop.

I am running single exhaust for now,

No muffler, only piping, not to loud for short trips.

Duals later...

 

Bob.

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What balance tube? This is a true split with no interconnection. I think what you call a balance tube is the crossover pipe behind the transmission.<<

 

Yup,that's a balance tube. I know they are used in V-8's to balance out the pressure,but I didn't/don't know if they are also necessary for inline 6's.

 

Or if they are used in inline 6's just to improve the sound.

 

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Not quite a dual exhaust- I'm running dual Carters with a George Asche split intake and exhaust manifolds. I had a local muffler shop that had been in business 30 years and knew what they were doing, split the exhaust pipe, then combine back into a single pipe. Because of the layout of the gas tank on the woodie, they was no room for dual pipes. When I asked them about exessive back-pressure, they said that they used to do it all the time with bigger V-8s with no apparent loss of breathing capacity. They did a lot of racing work back in ancient times. Runs and sounds great. Picked up a bit of power too, compared to single carb and exhaust. With the OD, I can do 65 all day long, which is a little scary in a car made out of toothpicks!

There is no room to run them side by side,with both coming out the rear on the passenger side?

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What balance tube? This is a true split with no interconnection. I think what you call a balance tube is the crossover pipe behind the transmission.<<

 

Yup,that's a balance tube. I know they are used in V-8's to balance out the pressure,but I didn't/don't know if they are also necessary for inline 6's.

 

Or if they are used in inline 6's just to improve the sound.

 

 

I guess you can call it a balance tube if you like but the main function of that tube is to direct the exhaust from the 3 rear cylinders to the left side of the car. If anything it makes the length of the tube for the 3 rear cylinders longer than the tube for the front 3 cylinders creating an imbalance in the length of the pipes.

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the spare tire and fuel tank locations can cause for a bit of concern when running a set of true duals (equal lengths)  I overcome these in a couple ways...setting the tank to be dead center and placing a heat shield in place solves the tank issue...relocating the spare from the well to sit at an angle and over the tranny hump is the other.  Both are easy to do but will take that stock look away..in my present build, the spare was not touched...the tank however has been moved completely and is a zero emissions system..dual exhaust is to be installed..

 

another install leaves me running the stock 3" pipe as the donor from the factory...single pipe

 

and another has the custom system with cross over...a one piece H pipe, mufflers and tail pipe able to be removed without damage if needed for whatever reason for other repairs or upgrades..

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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Folks,

 

I wanted to lend my two cents to the discussion because all that I have known is dual exhaust on my car.  However, I think mine is a little bit strange and I was talking with someone about having to rework it because I want my overdrive in.  I wanted to show you guys as I have had some other Plymouth owners look at it, tell me it sounds "Mean" but thought it worked out very well.  I bought it from the previous owner this way.  God rest his soul, I wish I could ask him more about his car but he's gone to the big garage in the sky.  He apparently did it himself in his garage.  I like it, but to allow for the clearances for the BW OD it's gonna have to change.

 

I present to you for contribution, my exhaust for an example.

 

FG.

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fedoragent:

 

 

My only concern is that from the first picture it looks as if the break line might be resting on top of the metal rear shock attachment bolt and is is rubbing any where along the path to the rear. I would double check to make sure it is supported and not have a change to rub agains t anything metal and wear a hole in the line.

 

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

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fedoragent:

 

 

My only concern is that from the first picture it looks as if the break line might be resting on top of the metal rear shock attachment bolt and is is rubbing any where along the path to the rear. I would double check to make sure it is supported and not have a change to rub agains t anything metal and wear a hole in the line.

 

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

Interesting you should say that.  I had noticed that yesterday when I was walking under the car.  Every January/February I have my brake guy either do a safety check, or at least check the pads / cylinders and do a bleed.  This year, those lines as well as the master cylinder are going to be replaced with a) new secured lines B) dual chamber.  I think for now, I'll make sure both the rear brake lines have some secured fashion.  Thank you for bringing that up Rich, I really appreciate it.

 

FG.

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