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Posted

Working on an Idea fro new dust covers. If it works anyone interested in a set for say 15 bucks including postage??

When get it perfected will post pics

I am also working on abandoning the present model for an all new model much cheaper and easier

Lou

Posted

Lou, I made a set out of thick pig skin leather that I picked up at Hobby Lobby. I made a paper pattern then cut the leather with a 1/2" overlap. Used leather glue also from hobby Lobby. Used band clamps to hold the leather tight at both ends and let glue cure. Used a small awl to punch holes into both ends of the leather at the overlap and used a curved needle with heavy waxed cord to lace the ends together then removed the band clamps and used tie wire wrapped around the joints to hold the boot in place. Seems to be working very good for now. The pig skin leather is very soft and strong.

Posted
Lou, I made a set out of thick pig skin leather that I picked up at Hobby Lobby. I made a paper pattern then cut the leather with a 1/2" overlap. Used leather glue also from hobby Lobby. Used band clamps to hold the leather tight at both ends and let glue cure. Used a small awl to punch holes into both ends of the leather at the overlap and used a curved needle with heavy waxed cord to lace the ends together then removed the band clamps and used tie wire wrapped around the joints to hold the boot in place. Seems to be working very good for now. The pig skin leather is very soft and strong.

I am having a hard time visualizing the details. Did you take any photos while you were making them?

Posted

On the topic of universal boots, attached is an image from the 1936-42 factory service manual showing an inner and outer boot. The instructions for installing are:

(3) Service Boot with Inner Boot Separate. This type of boot can be replaced without disassembling the universal joint. When replacing the boot, be sure to remove all traces of old boot, to insure a water-tight joint. Place the inner boot in position (fig. 2) and secure with clips. Install the outer boot and secure with clips (fig. 3). Twist wire very tightly on boot to prevent the inner boot sliding over the rib on end of the universal joint body. As the ends of the wire are being twisted, tap wire with a rubber or wooden mallet so that the wire sinks into leather.

All the replacement leather boots I have seen are only the "outer". And rarely do they have the flap and clip setup shown in the image. Generally they are lace up and, in my experience, don't seal well. It looks to me like the original factory "service boot" would do a decent job but I don't know where to get them.

post-34-13585345860649_thumb.jpg

Posted

Tod, I made a paper pattern like one would to make a sheet metal or paper cone. You project the two diameters and the distance they are apart. Then you establish a center line which will be one half of each diameter. You draw a line from the top end to the bottom and continue on until you cross the center line, you do this from both sides and they both should cross the centerline at the same point. It requires a beam compass to draw the two radii along the diameter of each end allowing 1/2" beyond the lines connecting the two diameters. Then you transfer the pattern to the leather using carbon paper to mark the leather. At this point you place the leather around the two ends of the driveshaft joint with band clamps to secure it. You now apply the glue to the overlap joint by seperating it enough to apply you to apply glue. After the glue has set up you punch side by side holes in the overlap about 1/4" appart to lace the boot together. Hope I have'nt mudded the waters, easier to do than to describe for me.

Guest rockabillybassman
Posted

I did much the same as James. Working so far, but I have'nt done much mileage yet.

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