checking my idea before surgery commences.

[casper50]

I've been examining different ways to excise the cancer in my trunk lid. (Turtle deck) for the Brits.  The original lid has cancer in the bottom 2 inches and one corner goes up about 6 and inward 2 inches.  It has a great top section and the inside panel is good with no after birth bends and offers solid support.  The parts lid has a good solid bottom except for one easily replaced 3 inch square on the outside.  The top edge is about gone for 3 inches down.  This part is where all the force from pushing down and pulling up transfers from the lid to the hinges.  The replacement is very weak in this area.  So I've just about decided to cut off the bottom 3-4 inches of the replacement and graft it to my original. Anyone with experience see a problem with this? 

photos in order are full inside of original

 

 

3 of the inside top section of both

 

2 of the inside bottom sections

 

2 of the outside bottom sections

[P15-D24]

I would seek replacement, that one is pretty far gone. 

[casper50]

which one?  More info.  I live in Alaska.  If I could find another good coupe trunk lid I imagine it would run at least $250.  Shipping it up here would run right at $600 or more.  I just had a rear fender quote that came in at $450.

Edited November 20, 2015 by casper50

[jcmiller]

It's interesting, and I guess fortunate, that they decomposed in different locations.  Mine is shot at the bottom, like your original.  I'm not experienced enough to weigh in on your plan.  I had the same thought as P15, but your location is a problem.  Have you checked out Fastenal third-party shipping?  There is a Fastenal in Kenai.  You might be surprised at their rates.  I had a transmission and a bunch of other parts shipped from Missouri to Oregon for $200.

Edited November 20, 2015 by jcmiller

[casper50]

Thanks JC I'll try them next time I need something shipped.

[DJ194950]

I thinking would be take a pick type body hammer any and All suspect rust areas of both deck lids to really know had needs to be done.

 

Maybe the best half of both? Patching the over lapping  rusted. areas.  For the best outer panel replacement, the inner reinforcement panel may need to be cut out and replaced after exterior panels are repaired. Again using the better condition parts!

 

Not for a beginner but you have shown with previous repairs that you are capable!

 

My last major project- believe me I did not really want to do it but was needed! Weeks of study and self talk it got repaired. Whole rear quarter panel and many trunk panel replaced.  See Attached.

 

DJ

[Dave72dt]

That's going to be a real mean repair if you're welding with a MIG.  TIG or oxy would be better if you have it and the skills for them since the welds themselves are much softer than the MIG.   Outer skin repair first with some of the inner cut out for dolly access to stretch the welds back out.  Some of the inner structure could be remade it seems.   It doesn't have to be made in one piece.  Looks like some fairly simple bends on a brake.  Save the inner corners if you can.  Those would be the hardest to duplicate.  Making cuts 1/4 to 1/2 inch from a bend will help maintain some structure and strength and may reduce the inherent shrinkage welding  brings with it since you won't have dolly access on the inner structure.  Certainly doable but you'll have your work cut out for you. 

[suntennis]

Would think for the repair needed a trunk lid from any model of your car should be the same at the bottom.

[Plymouthy Adams]

it is a process...the trunk lid is yours to salvage if you are in the mind to do it...I salvaged the decklid on my P15 bz cp just because they are not an item you can find laying about just everyday.  Even replaced the lower edge of the trunk opening where you ,mount the seal on the body.  You can do it..just take your time...

 

pics..show rust damage...checking fit of my repair piece to the body,...welded welded to the the deck lid..

 

 

due to limited photo storage, these images will be shown for only a short time...

Edited November 21, 2015 by Plymouthy Adams

[casper50]

That's pretty good work PA.  I have to do it anyway as I don't wish to buy another one and ship it up here.

[Plymouthy Adams]

I went back and read my repair log for the time I did this repair...built the replacement panel on one day..welded it to the deck lid the next day..there was also one rust out in the upper corner of the deck lid that got cut out and new metal also, an area where leaves and such collect when a car is parked out in the weather for a long period of time..

 

not sure of your Dodge but for the Plymouth, the shape of the lower opening of the coupe lid is so profoundly different that using a sedan donor is just out of the question....yeah...looked into that as a viable shortcut...back to the drawing board as they say..

[Plymouthy Adams]

Would think for the repair needed a trunk lid from any model of your car should be the same at the bottom.

as stated above...not sure of the Dodge, but for the Plymouth Bz Cp compared to the sedans...apples and oranges.

[casper50]

Even the taillight bezels and brake light bezel is different between sedans and coupes.  They are stamped inside with coupe or sedan.

[Plymouthy Adams]

that is true on the Dodge D24 for sure....the difference is so subtle in many areas one would not notice by a casual glance..the lid mounted brake light on the Plymouth is difference between coupe and sedan...the curvature of the two panels at the mounting area are extremely different..here is a picture that will show you the profile of a sedan lid sitting in the coupe opening....

[DonaldSmith]

Are the bottom edges of the coupe and sedan trunk lids the same?

Edited November 21, 2015 by DonaldSmith

[Plymouthy Adams]

DonaldSmith, on 21 Nov 2015 - 08:33 AM, said:

Are the bottom edges of the coupe and sedan trunk lids the same?

I mentioned above that it is not a workable proposition sedan to coupe...look to the very different weather strip between the two for your answer...