central52 Posted November 7, 2015 Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 I gleaned over some previous threads on a 6 volt battery booster pack. And found them interesting. With the colder weather on us now, here in Connecticut, it takes a longer cranking time to start my 47 Dodge. Rather than bring out another 6 volt battery to assist the one in the car, can I use my 12 volt battery booster pack to start it, knowing to keep off all electrical units, and immediately disconnecting the pack from the battery? Ed 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldodge41 Posted November 8, 2015 Report Share Posted November 8, 2015 I use a 12 volt pack on my '41 Dodge when needed. I am running an 8 volt battery, but did it when it was 6 volt also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted November 8, 2015 Report Share Posted November 8, 2015 When I use my 12V jumper, I connect positive clamp to a head bolt, turn the ign on, then touch the negative clamp to the cable on the starter side of the solenoid. Essentially powering the ignition with 6V, and spinning the starter with 12 volt, without energizing the solenoid.. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niel Hoback Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 Very clever. I'll remember that, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soth122003 Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 I jump mine like Greg g does. I went to Harbor Freight and bought their jump pack for around $60.00. Theirs had the long cables, the on/off switch, air compressor, and USB port. It will turn over a flathead like there's no tomorrow. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 I do not understand why you think you need a booster pack to start your car during the winter months. It seems to me that the gas is not getting to your carb and that the fuel needs to be pumped up the fuel line to get the carb bowl loaded with gas. I also assume that you have your car in a garage as required by all antique car insurance plans. I think that if you invest in a 6v electric fule pump and install it near the gas tank and then prime the carb to get the fule up from the tank then you should not have any issue with the cranking. This way the fuel is in the line and the engine should turnover with little cranking. Also remember these cars were being used ina ll types of weather when they were the cars that were on the roads back in the 30,40 and 50's. So your cranking issue might be something else instead of a booster pack. I have a 39 Desoto that I can crank over still 6v positive ground. I use the electric fp to prime the carb and then if fires right up in in the dead of winter. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mopar_earl Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 Will jumping with 12v to the starter stud harm the 6v electric choke? They are normally wired to the crank circuit on the starter side as they only get power when you crank the engine. Otherwise that would be a safe way to jump with 12v provided there is enough power in the 6v battery to fire the ignition. Earl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 The solinoid remains out of the circuit if you just go to the power out side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 If his 52 Dodge is wired like a Plymouth P17-P20, the choke solenoid is wired directly to the Heavy Cable from the start solenoid at the starter. (see your repair manual to check). So anytime the starter is cranked over there is power to the choke. The wire Could be disconnected at the choke for jump starting on 12V is wanting to to very safe and the choke operated manually But-- I have been using my P-20 on 12v for close to 3 years with 6 v. starter and 6v. choke on 12 v. with no problems. The only thing I did was to use 12 gauge wire from the starter to choke connection as it seemed to draw a lot of amps for the choke. I often have to crank it over a fair amount to get fuel up after sitting for a while, so the choke is also engaged during that extended cranking time. No problems so far and neither the wire nor the choke solenoid seem to get hot. Best, DJ. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 If his 52 Dodge is wired like a Plymouth P17-P20, the choke solenoid is wired directly to the Heavy Cable from the start solenoid at the starter. (see your repair manual to check). So anytime the starter is cranked over there is power to the choke. The wire Could be disconnected at the choke for jump starting on 12V is wanting to to very safe and the choke operated manually But-- I have been using my P-20 on 12v for close to 3 years with 6 v. starter and 6v. choke on 12 v. with no problems. The only thing I did was to use 12 gauge wire from the starter to choke connection as it seemed to draw a lot of amps for the choke. I often have to crank it over a fair amount to get fuel up after sitting for a while, so the choke is also engaged during that extended cranking time. No problems so far and neither the wire nor the choke solenoid seem to get hot. Best, DJ. DJ so again if you put on an electric pump and then use this to prime the fuelline to the carb then you will not have to crank and crank and crank the engine. Prime the line first since the car has been sitting then the engine will fire right up. An electric fule pump is around $50 a good investment for hard starting and less cranking. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
central52 Posted November 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 Hi guys, great info on my cold starting problem. It just might be that it's not getting enough fuel. Would pumping the gas pedal a lot, help? That's what I've been doing. And how would that effect the automatic choke? I never could figure that out. I never really had a problem when I had my 47 Plymouth with the standard manual choke. Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted November 10, 2015 Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 pumping the pedal will shot gas IF you have some int he bowl...howver...to set the sission choke one must depress the pedal about 1/3 during cranking and release the gas pedal prior to letting off the starter.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted November 11, 2015 Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 Pumping the gas pedal willnot get fuel into the gas line. Sounds as if your gas line has drained back and when that happens there is a lack of fuel in the line from the pump up to the bowel on the carb, so you have a void that needs to be filled. When your car was driven on a regular/daily basis the fuel line most likely never drained so you always had fuel in the line from the FP upto the carb hence the car will start and have the extra fuel to feed the bowel in the carb. Again this is where an electric FP aids in priming the mechanical FP and then send fuel up to the carb and therefore less cranking of the engine even when warm weather/cold weather. Rich Hartung Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suntennis Posted November 11, 2015 Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 Pumping the gas pedal prior to trying to start does not affect the choke but can put fuel into the cylinders. The chokes purpose is to richen the fuel mixture if needed. The choke will only move into a choking position when the starter is operating AND the gas pedal is depressed 1/3 or more. At this time depending on the choke adjustment the choke will via the choke linkage move to provide some choking. As the engine warms up the choke assembly will gradually reduce any choking to no choking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mopar_earl Posted November 11, 2015 Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 On my 52 I only need to press the accelerator down once and return to set the thermostatic choke and fast idle. When I crank it the choke electrical part pulls the choke completely shut. Once engine starts the thermostatic part of the choke takes over and slowly opens the choke as the exhaust manifold heats it through the base of the choke control through the gasket. Must have the correct high temp gasket or the choke won't operate correctly. Also make sure the choke is adjusted correctly and the linkage is free and clean. Earl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
central52 Posted November 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 OK, people, thanks for all that info. Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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