Really bad ticking/tapping noise

[Tatback]

So tonight after 3 months apart I finally started the Chrysler.... And once it started I was greeted with a bad tapping noise. (I'm uploading a video to YouTube right now and will post a link once uploaded)

Before taking everything apart there was no tapping. I had the radiator off, fan off, replaced the water pump with a new one from Napa. Took the head off and sandblasted/painted it. New water distribution tube. All new fuel lines, new brake lines, new brakes, new wiring (in parts that needed it) everything is working ok except this noise problem.

When the car is shifted into reverse the noise stops, then barely comes back when shifted into drive (3/4 gear) and I can hear it clear as day when driving down the road. Once shifted back into neutral it's there again.

Also when idling the oil pressure says just under 40 ... I don't know what it was before but I saw in a video that when driving it home the first time the oil pressure was just over 40 while cruising around 30.

[Tatback]

Here is the BEFORE video, the carb wasn't leaking either then and now the carb is soaked....??? I didn't touch the carb on this rebuild. I only took off the intake manifold because I thought a wire connector dropped into it ( nothing was in there)

https://youtu.be/-0wfVBi7Qxk

[55 Fargo]

You have any valves sticking, causing the tapping and clicking sounds. Where is the video with the noise?

[Tatback]

Here is the sound as of tonight ....

https://youtu.be/vJxGkudk7J8

[Tatback]

You have any valves sticking, causing the tapping and clicking sounds. Where is the video with the noise?

Sorry, the video was uploading as I was typing

[55 Fargo]

Your pointing to the water pump, is that where that nasty noise is coming from?

it does sound external and not in the engine itself, is this correct?

[Tatback]

I know I pointed but I was actually trying to point to where the light should be shined lol.

It's hard to tell if it's internal or external. I can feel it though when I hold the housing where the thermostat is, so it's making me think its internal.

[deathbound]

It does sound external...any loose fan blades, nuts, bolts, brackets.

[55 Fargo]

Rod bearing noise, it sounds like, but I'm 2500 miles away from you...sure hope I am wrong

[55 Fargo]

Why was the head off? 

Did you pull the fuel pump and/or replace it?

[Dodgeb4ya]

Something got on top of the piston?

[Niel Hoback]

It does sound like a pulley from here. But then everything sounds funny here in Virginia. Check the fan bolts and generator mount bolts and the 6 little crank pulley bolts.

[Tatback]

I took the head off to just sandblast and repainted it really. In the process I replaced the head gasket.

I'm thinking now I should of just left the head on. But in here I didn't touch anything else.

As for the fuel pump, I haven't touched it at all.

[55 Fargo]

Nothing wrong with that, at least it came off without breaking any bolts.

While you had it off, should have had it shaved, give you a little boost.

I sure hope you can figure this out, and hope it's just something external.

Keep us informed.....

[Tatback]

Tomorrow I'm going to pull the spark plugs and have a look down the holes.

I hope it's just something simple and small. When I take the belt off should the fan spin easily or will it have some resistance since it's connected to the water pump ?

I'll look over everything again and try and tighten everything once more. It's just weird as it was running much better before the sit.

Also should my oil pressure be around 36/38 when idling?? Seems very high to me.

[Tatback]

And any idea why it goes away as soon as I shift into reverse and the rpm's drop?

[Dodgeb4ya]

The fan will spin with just a slight bit of resistance.

It's possible the water pump impeller hitting???? Spin the fan with out the belt.

36/38 lbs Oil pressure hot idling with the chrysler full flow oil filter is fine. 40-50 lbs plus at road speed is normal.

Thats a pretty heavy rapping sound at the top of the engine. Tough to tell listening on YT.

Might check #1 or 2 compression if the pump is not the issue.

Edited September 21, 2015 by Dodgeb4ya

[soth122003]

Hey Tat,

 

I'm in agreement with the others. It sounds external. I would check for score marks on the hardware around the water pump. A quick test would be to pull the belt and run the car for a minute or two, just watch you temp gage and don't run longer than 3 minutes. If the tapping goes away, I would pull the pump and check for the impeller rubbing or knocking against the inside housing.

 

As for the carb, if it leaking at the base, and you didn't replace the base gasket, you probably have a tear or crack in it. If it is leaking from anywhere else, rebuild it, with new seals and gaskets. Also check the pivot pins? of the throttle plate.

 

Joe

Edited September 21, 2015 by soth122003

[Dodgeb4ya]

Reverse least noise.. forward range just a little noise?

Might also check crank end play.. pulley moving back and forth some?

[Don Coatney]

You said you removed the intake manifold. Do you have an exhaust leak where the intake and exhaust bolt together? Did you replace the pictured gasket?

 

[Tatback]

I disconnected the fan belt and spun the fan, no noise and very little resistance. I also started it with the belt disconnected and after 10/15 seconds the noise came back at which point I shut off the car.

Could it be an issue with my clutch pedal?? It has absolutely no play what so ever. Very very stiff right from the start...

[Jerry Roberts]

Harbor Freight sells a cheap stethascope to help determine where noise is coming from , or a length garden hose might work too . 

[soth122003]

Hey Tat,

 

You should have a little play in the clutch. My book of wonderous things says about 1 inch of freeplay at the pedal. With the car running and the tapping noise present, does it change as you push the clutch in? Also if you have a mechanics stethoscope try and isolate where the tapping is the loudest. If you don't have one, you can use a long screwdriver (metal end on the engine, ear on the plastic).

 

If you don't have it off, I would pull the floor board and listen at the bell housing as well. For some reason the bell housing can send sounds to the front of the engine and mislead you on where any sound is coming from.

 

After you do all that, and you still can't isolate the sound, I would pull the oil pan and check the crank and connecting rods and bearings. I know it sucks, but you will need to check out all possibilities.

 

Joe

Edited September 21, 2015 by soth122003

[Tatback]

You guys are too fast.... Here is the clutch video... Let me know if you think it's too tight...

http://youtu.be/IddIbXSjqFM

[Merle Coggins]

Hmm...

1. Zero clutch free play

2. Noise disappears when trans is in reverse (not moving I presume?)

3. Slight noise when placed in High Fwd. (is that right at the moment it goes into gear and the clutch pedal is released?)

4. Noise reappears when driving.

 

Sounds like your throw-out bearing is going bad and making noise since the clutch pedal/fork has it in contact with the clutch all of the time. When you are in Rev or Fwd and stalling the FD unit the clutch is not spinning, so it won't make any noise. In neutral, or when driving, the clutch is spinning against the bearing and it makes noise.

 

Try adjusting the clutch linkage to gain some free play, and check that the throw-out bearing is pulling away from the clutch fingers when the pedal is released. You'll have to look from underneath with the clutch pan removed.

 

Merle

Edited September 21, 2015 by Merle Coggins