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Really bad ticking/tapping noise


Tatback

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Its frustrating too (little venting) My family reunion is this saturday and I've been working on the car every chance I get to have it ready by then. I've been ahead of schedule even with all the issues. Last month I was sponsored by an action camera that just came out to send two of their cameras to near space with a High Altitude Balloon. I took 3 weeks off from working on the Chrysler to build the capsule and work out everything in the short amount of time I had. I launched it September 5th and everything went awesome. The day after I went right back to the Chrysler and began putting the puzzle all back together. Went to do my first test run (thinking it was just to make sure the brakes and all electronics were working) and this pops up. I know I know, its all part of having an old car. Normally it wouldn't bother me but I'm just down that I won't have it running for this family reunion. Least by the next reunion it'll be running as good as new.  

 

(sorry, just wanted to vent) The most frustrating part is not knowing exactly what is wrong. 

 

 

On an upside, I did do a compression test the other night around midnight lol...The engine was cold but all the cylinders were either 120 or just a couple psi off. 

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If you are going to remove the intake/exhaust manifolds, inspect the heat riser valve in the exhaust manifold. My valve plate fell off the shaft and fell down and stuck at the top of the head pipe. That is because I used soft brass screws for the plate, and staked them too, but they did not hold. Should have left original screws alone. It did NOT cause any noise but will be an easy visual check.

Owners have been fooled by one out of sight bolt in the center of the manifold, down low. Get all the bolts out before trying to pry things loose.

My two cents: if your carb was running OK leave the rebuild until later. That will avoid introducing carb rebuild glitches into your troubleshooting.

Good luck!

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I had a noise like this that was coming from my pulley. It was bent and wobbled but there was nothing else visibly wrong with it. I was convinced that the problem was elsewhere. I replaced the pulley and the sound was gone. I believe you said you ran it without the fan belt connected and the noise was still there, but since it seems to come and go, you might want to look into it. Another thing to look at: I once had a dent in the bottom of the oil pan that was just enough to cause the flywheel teeth to clip it as they went by. 

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The oil that came with it did seem much thicker. I'm guessing by how there was jb weld on the gas tank line fitting that he probably knew about this as well and tried to cover it up.

My oil pressure and compression though was good... Could this still be saved? New rod bearings and main bearings? That is if the crank is still good and smooth?

I don't have the money to have the engine pulled and have everything redone by a machine shop.

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The oil that came with it did seem much thicker. I'm guessing by how there was jb weld on the gas tank line fitting that he probably knew about this as well and tried to cover it up.

My oil pressure and compression though was good... Could this still be saved? New rod bearings and main bearings? That is if the crank is still good and smooth?

I don't have the money to have the engine pulled and have everything redone by a machine shop.

You can pull the bearing caps and examine the crank journals. For the rods you can even put a micrometer on them while the crank is in place. You've pulled the head. So if the journals look good (round with no wear marks) and there is no ridge on the top or scores in the cylinders, I'd be inclined to put in new bearings and drive it until you have the time to do it right at your leisure. If the journals or cylinders have an issue then maybe looking for a running used engine that can be dropped in would be a good idea.

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Thank you Tod, I did have a chance to look down the cylinders before I went under and dropped the oil pan. The cylinders actually look really good, I was surprised. 

 

If all is good and I can get away with just putting on new bearings would I be able to replace the main crank bearings as well or is that something that I would have to take the crank out to do?

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Seems per what my plymouth repair manual the rod should not be able to slide far enough

 

 

 

 

post-3654-0-70982000-1443138124_thumb.jpg

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Don, I'm not completely sure. The rods don't move much at all besides forward and aft. There are a couple score marks on the inside of the block that have me concerned though. Tomorrow morning I'll take pictures of them and try to take a video with me moving the crank. 

 

The best I can describe it is it looks like something is rubbing the inside wall slightly 1/3 of the way back from the front of the engine....1/2 back... and 2/3 of the way back. The rub marks are on the drivers side. I was running out of time when I noticed them and actually didn't look at the passenger side. (I was cleaning up everything before leaving)

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Yes you have displayed side to side play.

What about twisting the rods and is there a lot of play.

You mention, thicker oil, not sure that would have been enough to make those rods that much quieter.

You have stated good oil pressure, and very good compression readings too.

You really need to have someone who is in the "know" to have a good look at this, and make a plan.

I was hoping you were not dealing with a rod knock(s).

Have yopu done a process of elimination especially for all sources of external possiblities, seems like you have.

Keep us updated, and when you do have a correct diagnosis and subsequent corrective action, share that info on this thread. All the best of luck, and hope it is as painless as possible.

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Maximum rod side play is .011".

Crank end play is maxed out at .007"

The rod side or end play on some of the rods you moved looks at .015" to .020" !!!!!

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Tatback,

 

Pics. #1-3 show a piece of broken off piston skirt, but looking closely it appears that the sharp edge  left after breaking off has been sanded off and piston reused.

 

Pic. 4-7 looks like old block crack repairs?? Reoccurring??

 

Pic 6 showing also the fuel pump-- the internal arm and spring look strange to me But many diffenent mfg. co. made these so I will not say for sure myself.

 

Did this motor throw a rod in its past?

 

Thoughts after looking at pics.

 

DJ

Edited by DJ194950
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Its late at night and I've been going like crazy all day between cleaning for the reunion and answering questions about my High Altitude Balloon space pictures so my brain is fried BUT...during my long drive home in the dark I started thinking about the noise.....

If the mechanical fuel pump is trying to pull fuel from a vacuum would it cause the arm to smack the cam shaft harder? I have no idea how this is going to be to read on your end but in my head at this hour it makes sense.

My fuel tank is an original and doesn't have any vents. My fuel cap (from AB) is completely air tight. I know this because I had to make a new fitting on the fuel tank that involved installing a barbed fitting where the original opening was and I pumped air into the tank to make sure the fitting didn't leak.

Now with my fuel pump trying to pull fuel from a tank that is completely sealed, wouldn't that make the pump work harder and possibly make the arm smack inside harder as the diaphragm moves? I know I am probably way WAY off and that none of this could be even remotely possible but I just needed to say it out loud. When I ran the car the first time I didn't have a fuel cap yet so the tank was vented. After replacing all the fuel lines I had a lot of air in the system and the knock didn't start until the car ran on its own (no starter fluid) which is when It would be starting to have a vacuum effect on the fuel tank.

I know also that the easiest way to check this would to just take the fuel cap off BUT the engine is now apart. I have to wait on all my new gaskets to arrive before I can test this theory.

I'm also going to remove the crank pulley and run it without that as well for a few seconds to see if it happens to be bent after reading Joe Flanagan's thread from almost exactly a year ago.

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