Radiator Springs A Huge Leak

[NiftyFifty]

Why no coverage from Mpi? They should just pay for a direct replacement rad

[55 Fargo]

Why no coverage from Mpi? They should just pay for a direct replacement rad

Listen Shane, they most likely will, but I am still on the hook for the $300 deductible, they have not denied the claim, but the 60 YO rad may be a kicker. I can bring in the rad only and provide pics, then a decision can be made. I did mention a total "write off: you had mentioned, the adjuster said for a damaged rad, don't be ridiculous. Same issue would apply to broken glass...but the only source for a new rad is US radiator, or recore, or used, or somt type of aluminum replacement, have you any experience in retrofitting an aluminum rad into your truck?

[NiftyFifty]

I would have never taken the rad out, only brought them the whole truck and show it as one damage, you had body damage as well I thought. Age means nothing if it was a viable part before the accident, and $300 is cheap for a new direct replacement rad if they are paying the rest. No experience with aluminum rads, but I hear both good and bad on them...I'd rather have an original style...then you can braze the tanks or solder the core is you ever get another ding....aluminum can't always be fixed, and welding it requires a tig

[55 Fargo]

I would have never taken the rad out, only brought them the whole truck and show it as one damage, you had body damage as well I thought. Age means nothing if it was a viable part before the accident, and $300 is cheap for a new direct replacement rad if they are paying the rest. No experience with aluminum rads, but I hear both good and bad on them...I'd rather have an original style...then you can braze the tanks or solder the core is you ever get another ding....aluminum can't always be fixed, and welding it requires a tig

There is no damage to my truck, and MPI is fine with the rad removed according to them.

I am waiting to hear back, the qualifier is the rad while old it was in good working order, but it is 60 YO, and they might not replace it, but the 60 YO windshield they would, if it got damaged, all is pending at the moment.

[Bobacuda]

Fargos -

Curious about the details US Radiator gave you.  They advertise direct replacement, and the one for my '53 Dodge truck certainly is..  Their website does not show a photo of the '55 truck 6 cyl radiator photo, but the V8 radiator photo shows the filler cap on the left side like you wanted.  Did you ask them for a description of the radiator for your truck or did you look online and not like the radiator in the "photo not available" photo?  If you have not talked to them, they were very helpful when I called.

 

Good luck with the insurance company.

[55 Fargo]

The V8 model for 1955-57 LOOKS correct for my Canadian 25 inch engine. The outlet and inlet appear to be the right size and location.

I spoke with a Canadian dealer briefly.

If I go this route will call US rad directly. .thanks

a

[Jeff Balazs]

Ever since you started this post I have been looking at making a stone guard. I think I have settled on some heavy hardware cloth midway between the nose section and the radiator. Stuff is always getting kicked up on the freeways here. Not always rocks....I think something to slow it down could be well worth the extra effort.

 

Jeff

[NiftyFifty]

If you can find it, I have my grill filled in with black snow fence.....might be tough to buy in Texas LOL. I've never seen this stuff before, but my buddy bought a roll and it looks great, it's not the standard big hole stuff like the orange stuff.

[TodFitch]

Ever since you started this post I have been looking at making a stone guard. I think I have settled on some heavy hardware cloth midway between the nose section and the radiator.

 

Funny thing is that the grill was added to cars in the late 20's and early 30's to protect the radiator from road debris. I guess as it became more of a styling item its original functionality was compromised.

[Jeff Balazs]

Yep;

The nose of the later Pilothouse trucks and the C series trucks is fairly wide open. I like the look and it probably has better airflow through the radiator than the earlier nose??? But there is nothing there to stops rocks etc. No big deal though as it is easy enough to put some "protection" in place without changing the looks or disturbing the air flow. I am definitely going to do it as this is my only vehicle and I enjoy the bullet proofing process. It's "little stuff" like this can make all the difference of enjoying the ride .....or being stuck by the road.

Jeff

[55 Fargo]

Fargos -

Curious about the details US Radiator gave you.  They advertise direct replacement, and the one for my '53 Dodge truck certainly is..  Their website does not show a photo of the '55 truck 6 cyl radiator photo, but the V8 radiator photo shows the filler cap on the left side like you wanted.  Did you ask them for a description of the radiator for your truck or did you look online and not like the radiator in the "photo not available" photo?  If you have not talked to them, they were very helpful when I called.

 

Good luck with the insurance company.

Hey there Bobacuda, it appears that the US Rad for my truck, has 2 things not quite right for the Canuck version, the top inlet is only 1 1/2, mine is 1 3/4, the mounting brackets are also on the wrong side of the rad for a Canadian truck, I suppose I could work with that. But at $650, would expect a drop in and go. I am leaning toward a recore, and at least it would be a drop in....

[55 Fargo]

Ever since you started this post I have been looking at making a stone guard. I think I have settled on some heavy hardware cloth midway between the nose section and the radiator. Stuff is always getting kicked up on the freeways here. Not always rocks....I think something to slow it down could be well worth the extra effort.

 

Jeff

I also have some heavy metal grate like mesh, will cut to size to install in front of the new rad...

[55 Fargo]

Here is a rad made for a 53/54 Dodge cars/trucks, http://www.ebay.com/itm/1953-1954-Dodge-Plymouth-Chrysler-Aluminum-Radiator-3-Row-Core-Lightweight-MOPAR-/311369369021?fits=Year%3A1954%7CMake%3ADodge%7CModel%3ATruck&hash=item487f0f85bd&vxp=mtr

This rad is a little narrower, has a center filler neck,and inlet is on the driver side.

I think I can work with this, and it's quite cheap compared to a US rad, Walker rad, or a recore.

Anybody ever use one of these in their trucks...

 

This unit/type, might be a better option, the mounting brackets are on the wrong side of the rad though, but can make that work fairly easy too...  http://www.ebay.com/itm/1949-1952-Dodge-Wayfarer-Radiator-Champion-2-Row-Core-All-Aluminum-/271918783915?hash=item3f4f9f5dab

Edited July 8, 2015 by Fargos-Go-Far

[46Ply]

I've been going through the same research for my P15 Plymouth Coupe.  And have boiled my choices down to Champion Radiator.  They have a lifetime warranty.   I've found the same unit on ebay for $30 less, but if you deal directly with Champion they can make modifications for you, (at extra cost).  They are very helpful if you call directly to discuss your application. 

 

Not sure about your measurements, but have you looked at this one:  http://www.championradiators.com/dodge-power-wagon-radiator-1953-1954

 

And you've probably already looked at this:  http://www.championradiators.com/Fabrication-and-mods

Edited July 8, 2015 by 46Ply

[Don Coatney]

I've been going through the same research for my P15 Plymouth Coupe.  And have boiled my choices down to Champion Radiator.  They have a lifetime warranty.   I've found the same unit on ebay for $30 less, but if you deal directly with Champion they can make modifications for you, (at extra cost).  They are very helpful if you call directly to discuss your application. 

 

Not sure about your measurements, but have you looked at this one:  http://www.championradiators.com/dodge-power-wagon-radiator-1953-1954

 

And you've probably already looked at this:  http://www.championradiators.com/Fabrication-and-mods

Time to man up and poop or stand up.

[55 Fargo]

Time to man up and poop or stand up.

I can take this from you Don, as I now the Spitfire Head is still on your mind, so you can relate to the indesciveness.....LOL who you Pooin on

Actually our public insurance corp, is the entity that needs to $hit or get off the pot, once I am told they will not honor this claim, then I will order a Champion rad, and make the retrofit.

Don the rad you bought, is a very simple install, on mine they are not direct fits, so some bracket changes will need to be worked out.

Thanx for your concern..BTW do you happen to know of anyone who has installed a Champion rad into a C series pickup?

[Plymouthy Adams]

You know you need a radiator..buying the right one I would see as a delay..waiting for the insurance company to give me a nod...not on your life...they going to pay x amount or they not going to pay a thing....either way you need a rad...pony up and get the beast on the road..let the rain settle the dust..

[55 Fargo]

You know you need a radiator..buying the right one I would see as a delay..waiting for the insurance company to give me a nod...not on your life...they going to pay x amount or they not going to pay a thing....either way you need a rad...pony up and get the beast on the road..let the rain settle the dust..

Thanx for the advice Tim, not sure exactly what to do, can you suggest what I should be doing here. That's why I have made the posts, to see if good folks like you and Don may have a good idea on which rad and supplier  for my truck....anyways thanx again Tim

[Plymouthy Adams]

you have posted a number of rads...it seems the immediate question is twofold..cost and proximity to home...you may not get both but chose the most relative to your need...I would personally spend another dollar to the closer to home distributor in case there is a need for return.  As you also have stated again in this thread the desire to eventually drop a bent engine into it...the third factor comes into play..what radiator will be able to mount to your  support and properly fill the opening and support the L6 and the V8...you need but a tape measure...location of the inlet and outlet and the sizes of the inlet and outlet..I think in both the lower is 1 3/4 and 1 1/2 upper  and IF the V8 will get a slushbox and you join the ranks of the shiftless...you will need that retro/universal rad to support auto tranny cooling lines...I was merely stating that I would not let the insurance company slow me down in making a choice as win or lose you have already stated you got to spend the coin..

[55 Fargo]

you have posted a number of rads...it seems the immediate question is twofold..cost and proximity to home...you may not get both but chose the most relative to your need...I would personally spend another dollar to the closer to home distributor in case there is a need for return.  As you also have stated again in this thread the desire to eventually drop a bent engine into it...the third factor comes into play..what radiator will be able to mount to your  support and properly fill the opening and support the L6 and the V8...you need but a tape measure...location of the inlet and outlet and the sizes of the inlet and outlet..I think in both the lower is 1 3/4 and 1 1/2 upper  and IF the V8 will get a slushbox and you join the ranks of the shiftless...you will need that retro/universal rad to support auto tranny cooling lines...I was merely stating that I would not let the insurance company slow me down in making a choice as win or lose you have already stated you got to spend the coin..

Thanx again Tim, sorry there are no suppliers closer to home, other than a few of the rad shops left who still do recores, but that has gotten expensive.

Oh yes the 318 swap, well someday, kids in college, other expenses that will be on hold for a little while, but not too many years, I know you enjoy the build process, but do not want it to take as long as some of your projects. I do look forward to seeing them once you have them all finished.

I have done all the measuremens, and have landed on 1 Champion rad that will work with either engine, the inlet is  1 3/4  for the 6 and 1 1/2 for the LA engine, but can work that out when the time comes. I have a few external trans coolers, so do not need a rad with a built in cooler.

This claim is in process, so will take the time to bring them the rad for a look, then will see what happens.

look forward to seeing the completion of your Coupe, gonna be nice once you get it finished....BTW the LA engine does not require an offset in a C series pickup, is this the bent engine is what you are referring to?

[Plymouthy Adams]

V engines is my general reference to the bent engine....my projects have no build completition dates ..never set them, never care if they ever get done..as long as I have fun with them...I am happy

[55 Fargo]

V engines is my general reference to the bent engine....my projects have no build completition dates ..never set them, never care if they ever get done..as long as I have fun with them...I am happy

Uh, well got my Head bent around that Tim, duh didn't know you was referring to V configured engine..

[Plymouthy Adams]

just a little slang thown in...

[NiftyFifty]

Setting a finish date takes all the fun out of a project, believe me I know first hand. I set a date last year to have my truck completed for our last local cruise night, but 1/2 way through the summer I knew it was never going to happen. During the winter I decided I would keep the truck in the warm part of my shop and keep working at it, and set a date that it HAD to be finished by Back To The 50's....just about wore myself sick getting it there, and by the end I hated the truck. I'm just starting to get over it now and I blew my head gasket last Thursday which was another set back. I'm all fixed again now, but with any major work, try not to set a date, just a goal.

If it were me, I would get a local shop to recore or build a non aluminum rad, you have local warranty, no exchange to worry, no shipping hassels, and then it's also repairable anywhere you are. Every small town that has a hardware store has solder and a torch...only a trained welder and fix an aluminum rad

[55 Fargo]

Setting a finish date takes all the fun out of a project, believe me I know first hand. I set a date last year to have my truck completed for our last local cruise night, but 1/2 way through the summer I knew it was never going to happen. During the winter I decided I would keep the truck in the warm part of my shop and keep working at it, and set a date that it HAD to be finished by Back To The 50's....just about wore myself sick getting it there, and by the end I hated the truck. I'm just starting to get over it now and I blew my head gasket last Thursday which was another set back. I'm all fixed again now, but with any major work, try not to set a date, just a goal.

If it were me, I would get a local shop to recore or build a non aluminum rad, you have local warranty, no exchange to worry, no shipping hassels, and then it's also repairable anywhere you are. Every small town that has a hardware store has solder and a torch...only a trained welder and fix an aluminum rad

What is with you and that Truck, your breaking things all the time, just a string of setbacks, no biggie, just get back on the ole horse.

Rads, recores with 60 years old tanks, hmm, and it is not cheap, and is still an option worth considering.

The champions are cheap enough, have lifetime warranties, and may very well be throw away rads, if they go bad after a number of years.

Having a rad custom built is big money, I would say a $1000.

Will know very soon which direction this is going, I kinds like the idea of the aluminum rad, think a 2 row would cool this engine just fine and better than my old stock rad...