ACJCF2 Posted April 19, 2015 Report Share Posted April 19, 2015 I've been absorbing information on this site like a sponge. I've not found the dope I'm looking for. The previous owners of my 49 Coronet had converted the ignition to 12v negative (A good thing). The mechanic installed a Delco 10si alternator. I noticed though that coil wiring routes through a ceramic ballast resistor, which is cracked. Can anyone provide a p/n for an internally ballasts coil? I'd prefer to eliminate this troublesome part. Thanks, Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted April 19, 2015 Report Share Posted April 19, 2015 Most any auto parts store should have an internally resisted coil. Call and ask them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted April 19, 2015 Report Share Posted April 19, 2015 you should look a bit more into the internal resistor coils..they are known for their slow changing value as they are heat activated..these take a longer time to drop the voltage off the points thus making points wear a bit accelerated....a cracked ceramic does not mean a broken resistor...secondly where do you have the ceramic mounted plays greatly into long life...anytime it is mounted to weather rain or wash over during the bath of the car will cause said cracks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted April 19, 2015 Report Share Posted April 19, 2015 Ballast resistor, 8 to 15 dollars, available everywhere, Internally resisted coil 25 to 50+ dollars may not in in open stock. Does that make any sense? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACJCF2 Posted April 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2015 It does, thanks. Currently it is on the left inner fender. I agree Tim, cracked doesn't mean broken and the candles still light. $5-6 is cheaper and I may look at mounting elsewhere. I was however, under the impression that internally ballasts coils where longer lasting/better. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted April 19, 2015 Report Share Posted April 19, 2015 I have my resistor mounted near the coil in rubber. I also carry a spare in the glove box but I have never had to use it in over 40,000 miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACJCF2 Posted April 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2015 Thanks Don. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ulu Posted April 20, 2015 Report Share Posted April 20, 2015 If your ballast breaks the engine will stop, but just unplug it & stick the two wires together & the car will run again. It'll burn up the points sooner than normal, but with good points it'll run 5 thousand miles that way. It'll go 10k and more easily on a set of points, with a ballast. It's not a critical part. It just reduces the coil voltage on a running engine to make the points last longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ulu Posted April 20, 2015 Report Share Posted April 20, 2015 I have my resistor mounted near the coil in rubber. I also carry a spare in the glove box but I have never had to use it in over 40,000 miles. I've seen this method on many cars, but I prefer the ballast high on the firewall or fender where it'll stay 100% dry & not be subject to engine vibration. They are impervious to heat, but they heat up & if rain hits a hot ballast it'll crack it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted April 20, 2015 Report Share Posted April 20, 2015 If your ballast breaks the engine will stop, but just unplug it & stick the two wires together & the car will run again. It'll burn up the points sooner than normal, but with good points it'll run 5 thousand miles that way. It'll go 10k and more easily on a set of points, with a ballast. It's not a critical part. It just reduces the coil voltage on a running engine to make the points last longer. while you are correct it will shorten the life of the points, the more likely problem will most like be an overheated coil inside 15-30 minutes of operation and will steadily lose power/cut off or when turned off will be so hot that a restart will to be possible till an extended cool down period has elapsed.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ulu Posted April 21, 2015 Report Share Posted April 21, 2015 while you are correct it will shorten the life of the points, the more likely problem will most like be an overheated coil inside 15-30 minutes of operation and will steadily lose power/cut off or when turned off will be so hot that a restart will to be possible till an extended cool down period has elapsed.. Sounds logical, though I've never experienced this, and I drove my Edsel from SanFrancisco to Clovis with no ballast. But not all coils are created equal & I've seen one car have back-to-back coil failures due to heat soaking. Heat definitely kills coils. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted April 21, 2015 Report Share Posted April 21, 2015 (edited) Ford off and on used a ballast wire internal to the wiring harness...often doubled back into the harness as length was often needed longer than the run itself..your car may well have fit that era with the wire and thus no resistor block was fitted....again, internal to the harness....remember well one of my earliest repair jobs assigned...repairing the wiring harness damaged by a overheated ballast wire as it had melted through and created a few shorts here and there... Edited April 21, 2015 by Plymouthy Adams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACJCF2 Posted April 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2015 The more I ponder this, there are a gracious many internally ballasted coils on the market and I can't say that I've seen that many failures due to overheating. I heard/read about more complaints about the ceramic ballast failing due to getting to hot, et.al. The car runs good and I'll address this later. First I have brake issue to deal with, wiring. Safety first! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted April 21, 2015 Report Share Posted April 21, 2015 I have owned many cars with ballast resistors..I have never had to replace a ballast one time..only you can make the call on what to use...I just posted what I did to make sure your choice is an informed one.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T120 Posted April 21, 2015 Report Share Posted April 21, 2015 A car I have had the 12 volt negative conversion done before I purchased it. The ignition coil that was fitted (internal resistor) is a NAPA IC14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACJCF2 Posted April 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2015 And I appreciate and value your input Tim. It will serve for an informed decision. I like rubber washer idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_shel_ny Posted April 21, 2015 Report Share Posted April 21, 2015 (edited) Firewall mounted ballast resistor on my '73 Dodge van failed once. Carried a spare for the next 15 + years, and it was still in the glove department when I bartered the van. Edit: was in my driveway when it failed. I had visions of possible failures traveling between Virginia, and New York. The spare prevented that failure Edited April 21, 2015 by shel_ny 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ulu Posted April 21, 2015 Report Share Posted April 21, 2015 The one on my Edsel was the typical white ceramic one. It failed due to age and corrosion of the resistor wire. That car was from San Diego & had some salt damage on everything, & was never really a keeper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted April 21, 2015 Report Share Posted April 21, 2015 then you had an early Edsel,...end run was resistor wires.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ulu Posted April 21, 2015 Report Share Posted April 21, 2015 It was a '59 Ranger, but no telling if the wiring was 100% stock. The resistor might have been added after the original wire melted down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted April 21, 2015 Report Share Posted April 21, 2015 (edited) 59 was not the end run of the Edsel...58-59 was ceramic block (introduced Sept 1957 as the '58 model year)...1960 was first , last and only year resistor wire for the Edsel... as a side note the only Edsel I knew of sat in the field for years as I saw it driving to and from work daily...it has since disappeared...crusher or rebuild I cannot say...they were an ugly beast....face only a mother could love...puts my 62 Dodge on par with Christie Brinkley Edited April 21, 2015 by Plymouthy Adams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted April 21, 2015 Report Share Posted April 21, 2015 Edsel grill below a pair of Caddy Dagmar's sort of completes the ensemble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T120 Posted April 21, 2015 Report Share Posted April 21, 2015 Edsel grill below a pair of Caddy Dagmar's sort of completes the ensemble. Comparison was a little crude,but at the same time,somewhat humorous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted April 21, 2015 Report Share Posted April 21, 2015 Comparison was a little crude,but at the same time,somewhat humorous. OK I will go sit in the corner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T120 Posted April 21, 2015 Report Share Posted April 21, 2015 Don,No need to sit in the corner - Sometimes I envy your ability to come up with such witty remarks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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