1950dodgefan Posted April 13, 2015 Report Share Posted April 13, 2015 hey guys i decided to start a new subject my old one is kinda dead now. so as you all know i have a 1950 b2c with the 218 l 6. i finally got it to run rebuilt the carb today and it wont stay running for more than 5 minutes but still ik it will run once its really hooked up. but now that i have an exhaust system installed on it somewhat. its more quiet at the engine and i have noticed two things. crankshaft pully wobbles a lot. and theres a ticking coming from inside the valve train. so i started the engine and ran it and the weird thing is none of the lifters are stuck they all move freely with the engine running i was actually able to spin the lifters with my fingers they seemed to spin pretty freely is that what the should do and i dont know if the engine is supposed to do that i mean its a 1950 im sure the lifters werent dead silent but any help would be greatly appreciated. all valves open and close i dont have the tools to adjust them and not exactly able to run it long enough to get the engine to temperature. so if they are supposed to spin freely like that when the engine is running what could be making the ticking? i used an oil gun and sprayed thick oil on the lifters and it didnt silence the ticking at all they look like they are getting lubricated. ive been having oil passage problems so im scared to run the engine to long i dont want to break it. basically my oil gauge reads 40-50 and when i unplug that line it spurts oil but when i unhook the line to my oil filter the return and the supply nthing comes out of those two lines so i dont know if just that passage is clogged or something else is. you see if this was an earlier engine the info would be available but like my dad said it being a 1950 and a chrysler we just dont know too much about it. so if you could give me info and tips on how to chase the tick and adjust my valves and just any info you can really. i need every ounce of knowledge i can get!!! thank you all so much ill try and get a video of it maybe and post it or post it on my youtube so you can watch and listen also my enghine has some pretty bad sludge whats a good additive to remove all that?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted April 13, 2015 Report Share Posted April 13, 2015 The tappets (lifters) should rotate when the engine is running. If you have any valve adjustments with too much clearance you will hear a tick-tick-tick. The valves are fairly easy to adjust. All you need is a set of feeler gauges and 1/2" and 7/16" wrenches. Longer feeler gauges and long tappet wrenches are a plus, but aren't needed. When I made this video I should have left one loose too. When you slip your feeler gauge into a loose one the ticking will disappear, or lessen some. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBF Posted April 13, 2015 Report Share Posted April 13, 2015 (edited) A loose valve will rarely burn. When I first got my B2D I was amazed how quietly it ran until it started running on 5 cylinders. I found that the previous owner had set the adjustment too tight, and #6 exhaust was badly burned and split down the face of the valve to the stem. 12 new valves, 2 new seats, and 6 exhaust guides later I take comfort in the slight ticking I have adjusted in. If I were you I think I'd run it awhile and get it up to a good heat soaked temperature before I did the adjustment. If you can get the passenger inner fender panel off and then take the right front tire off you can sit and take your time doing the adjustment w/o standing on your head. The longer feeler guages, and tappet wrenches, and gloves may save some of your skin during the adjustment process. Clean out the lifter compartment while you have the side covers off and make sure all of the oil returns are open and clean before dropping the pan.You can drop your pan pretty easily by jacking up the nose and allowing the front suspension to hang from the chassis. That way you can clean out whatever crap is on the pan, and check the oil pickup to make sure it isn't becoming clogged. Once back together a 180 thermostat and a working PCV setup will help get rid of the condensation inside the engine which will go a long way towards keeping the insides from sludging up. I'm wondering if the oil bypass valve is stuck in the open position which is why you have nothing going up to your filter. Mike Edited April 13, 2015 by MBFowler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1950dodgefan Posted April 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2015 A loose valve will rarely burn. When I first got my B2D I was amazed how quietly it ran until it started running on 5 cylinders. I found that the previous owner had set the adjustment too tight, and #6 exhaust was badly burned and split down the face of the valve to the stem. 12 new valves, 2 new seats, and 6 exhaust guides later I take comfort in the slight ticking I have adjusted in. If I were you I think I'd run it awhile and get it up to a good heat soaked temperature before I did the adjustment. If you can get the passenger inner fender panel off and then take the right front tire off you can sit and take your time doing the adjustment w/o standing on your head. The longer feeler guages, and tappet wrenches, and gloves may save some of your skin during the adjustment process. Clean out the lifter compartment while you have the side covers off and make sure all of the oil returns are open and clean before dropping the pan.You can drop your pan pretty easily by jacking up the nose and allowing the front suspension to hang from the chassis. That way you can clean out whatever crap is on the pan, and check the oil pickup to make sure it isn't becoming clogged. Once back together a 180 thermostat and a working PCV setup will help get rid of the condensation inside the engine which will go a long way towards keeping the insides from sludging up. I'm wondering if the oil bypass valve is stuck in the open position which is why you have nothing going up to your filter. Mike alright thank you guys for the help and the pcv setup what is that?? and what is the oil bypass valve and where is it see i get what your saying i just dont understand what that is in this engine. ive never seen one of these engines before again im a chevy 350 guy. so could you explain in really good detail? what that stuff is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1950dodgefan Posted April 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2015 also how would you suggest cleaning all the oil return lines and all that in the valves and stuff?? what did you do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_shel_ny Posted April 13, 2015 Report Share Posted April 13, 2015 (edited) and what is the oil bypass valve and where is it see i get what your saying i just dont understand what that is in this engine. ive never seen one of these engines before again im a chevy 350 guy. so could you explain in really good detail? what that stuff is. http://p15-d24.com/topic/38335-218-l6-oiling-system/ Spring and plunger located behind square nut just forward of your starter near where the oil filter canister drain line returns to the block. Edited April 13, 2015 by shel_ny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1950dodgefan Posted April 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2015 http://p15-d24.com/topic/38335-218-l6-oiling-system/ Spring and plunger located behind square nut just forward of your starter near where the oil filter canister drain line returns to the block. thank you should that be replaced or can i just pull it and clean it? also would it be safe to drop the oil pan and blow air through the lines and stuff? trying to clean out all the sludge and what not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBF Posted April 14, 2015 Report Share Posted April 14, 2015 Behind the side covers in the valve galley there are holes in the bottom that allow splashed up oil to return to the pan. Clean those out with an engine brush to chase whatever sludge you weren't able to remove by scraping down into the pan. Once the valve galley is clean, I'd drop the pan and see what it look like inside and clean it really well.. Also remove the oil pickup canister and clean that to make sure it isn't starting to plug up. Working from underneath with the pan off scrape or brush whatever you can from inside of the block to get rid of the crap. Before putting the pan back on I'd blow compressed air through the oil filter feed and return fittings, and pull the pressure relief valve to make sure it's freely moving. Once you've done all of that I'd put a new set of side cover and pan gaskets on and fill it with oil to run it. The pcv system is a positive crankcase vent system that replaces the road draft tube, and which will vent the crankcase gases to a constant vacuum source to get rid of the moisture in the crankcase after the oil comes up to a high enough temp to allow the vapor to boil off. Use the search function-there is a lot of information on this forum, and if you can get a factory service manual for a flathead 6 which you'll find very useful in the future. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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