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SUCESSFUL REAR AXLE SWAPS.


48ply1stcar
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I posted this question in a new thread bit never got a response.

Those that have done the 8.8 swap with disc brakes here is my question.

the outside frame width is 48 1/4 wide..same as the springs. The distance between the calipers is around 46 with the banjo bolt being the narrowest point. Has any one had issues with clearance between the calipers and the frame with range of motion? Especially with a 2 or 3" drop

thanks 

 

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3 hours ago, Dartgame said:

Hey Bob - are you saying you did not need to move the spring perches ?

I also used a 1988 Mopar 8 1/2 diff on my 55 Fargo truck, and the spring perches did line up, but the wrong pinion angle.

I did not do the swap, but used steel shims to correct the pinion angle.

I am going to pull this diff, and swap in a 3.55 posi Mopar 8 1/4 or redo the crown and pinion in mine, but will also at that time weld on new perches.

Yah original wheels fit  but mine have 10 inch modern self energizing drum brakes, they work well..

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  • 4 weeks later...

Rear end from 93 Ford Ranger in my 1940 D14 ...

Moved spring pads outboard to 46 1/2 inches

used 1/2 inch  wheel spacers with 15” Ford wheels

new brake lines to install stock rear brake hose and brass tee

custom made driveshaft....stock transmission to Ranger pinion flange

stock shock mounts

Works perfect!

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On 2/3/2015 at 2:37 PM, FESTER60 said:

I used a Ford Explorer rear from a 01 so I could get the factory disc brakes. On thing about that, The stock wheels will not fit. They won't clear the calipers. I ended up using Jeep wrangler steel wheels. Even then I needed 1/2" spacers and had to notch a small piece out of the caliper. All is good now.

I used a 1999 Explorer which had disc brakes on my 46 Ply .  Used stock 48 Ply 15 inch wheels and 670-15 size narrow radials from Coker for tires.  Used 1/4 inch spacers which made the rims clear the calipers nicely.  Overall width was good also.

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Ill need to do more research and spend a bit more time reading this thread and reading all the resouces provided here.  Heres my situation;  Im running a 265 engine with a T5 5 speed transmission.  Ive read that if I use the 2.73  gearded rear end that I will rending first gear useless.

Im trying to determine if a 3.55 or 3.73 gear will work best with my setup

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in today modern world and the OD playing a role in every make and model the few things still ring true.  Today gearing is based around a speed limit of 70 mph and the gear ratio to torque to maintain this speed is based on 200 rpm below the peak torque of the engine at the lowest rpm.  the 200 below is so that while using cruise control or feathering with your foot the ability to maintain speed on slight rises like an overpass without a down shift.    do the math...your 2.73 in 5th OD at say .72 is a final drive of 1.96   

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6 hours ago, 40desoto said:

Ill need to do more research and spend a bit more time reading this thread and reading all the resouces provided here.  Heres my situation;  Im running a 265 engine with a T5 5 speed transmission.  Ive read that if I use the 2.73  gearded rear end that I will rending first gear useless.

Im trying to determine if a 3.55 or 3.73 gear will work best with my setup

With my Ranger 5 speed/218 setup/3.73, my first gear is almost like a "granny" gear, (great in Virginia though), and top gear is great over 40mph.     Hope to try 3.55 soon.    With a 2.7 rear, my top gear would not get much use, unless I was going downhill.....

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  • 3 weeks later...

Haven’t noticed, i may have overlooked, but has anyone put a 70-72 plymouth duster rear axle in a 49-52 plymouth?

the length is a little shorter than stock but I’m running wider than stock wheels that should make up for that.

and I understand that i will most likely need to have a new drive shaft made no matter which rear end I choose

im concerned with the line up of the center section.

I came across one locally at a decent price but I’m not sure about the fit.

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many do not like the smaller size ring gear that is the 7.25 A-body differential even though the last of the rear wheel drive V8's used this size ring also.  The single biggest drawback will be the 5 on 4" bolt circle.  Now if you perhaps have found a 8 3/4 Duster rear axle with 5 x 4.5 I withdrawn my comment and add that if you can get it at the right price, you may do better selling it off to a muscle car type and get a rear axle from another source for your ap.

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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16 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

many do not like the smaller size ring gear that is the 7.25 A-body differential even though the last of the rear wheel drive V8's used this size ring also.  The single biggest drawback will be the 5 on 4" bolt circle.  Now if you perhaps have found a 8 3/4 Duster rear axle with 5 x 4.5 I withdrawn my comment and add that if you can get it at the right price, you may do better selling it off to a muscle car type and get a rear axle from another source for your ap.

I hadn’t even considered that it would have a smaller bolt pattern!!!

i assumed All mopar cars of the time period had the 5x4 1/2 pattern. Damn. Ok. I’ll keep looking. THANKS.

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  • 1 year later...
  • 6 months later...
On 3/1/2016 at 9:32 PM, Allmyjunk said:

The dana 35 out of a cherokee fit right in the drive shaft is kinda pricey though, it will be done Friday but regular u-joints and 355 gears should be a huge benefit for daily driveing

Just going over this tread again.  How did your swap turn out, did you post it with pictures.

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On 11/8/2017 at 1:32 PM, Tom said:

Rear end from 93 Ford Ranger in my 1940 D14 ...

Moved spring pads outboard to 46 1/2 inches

used 1/2 inch  wheel spacers with 15” Ford wheels

new brake lines to install stock rear brake hose and brass tee

custom made driveshaft....stock transmission to Ranger pinion flange

stock shock mounts

Works perfect!

hey Tom,

I'm putting a '92 Ranger rear end under my '52 Plymouth Suburban. I need to get Ford drums and brakes- I plan on running stock 15" Plymouth wheels. Any suggestions as to were to get the Ford brakes and drums?

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  • 1 month later...
  • Solution

This what I finally did.  2000 Cherokee 8.25 Chrysler rear axle.

 

Sorry not a lot of pictures.  I had the swap done and I was too sick to hang out at the shop and pester the boys.  I bought a rusty axle from a Minnesota savage yard I found on Ebay. $150

I brought the axle to the guys at AA driveline in Anoka, MN.  They gutted the axle, then I brought it to a sandblaster/paint shop near by.  I odered all of the brake parts from Rockauto.  A 3-inch spring perch from Summit motors. AA Driveline was able use 3-inch spring shackles with the 2 3/4 inch shock mount, put everything together, installed it, and made a driveshaft.  Just giving credit to the shop for a good experience. In on a Thursday out on a Friday.

 

Cherokee Axle.jpg

Old axle (1).jpg

AA Driveline.jpg

Edited by 48ply1stcar
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