52Suburban Posted January 14, 2015 Report Posted January 14, 2015 OK putting on the Langdon 2 barrel the studs were too long for the adapter so I decided to try and remove them to put in shorter one's - MISTAKE! Should have cut the tops off and I would not be where I am now but .... live and learn - had two ways to go and ..... So I *want* to take of the intake and drill out the studs in a press and helicoil or tap the holes off the car - just too many times having this go wrong on the car.... So being a newbie to 218 motors looks like I have to take off both the exhaust and intake manifold together is this correct? I have removed the obvious top nuts I think 4 of them and then two on either end of the manifold and then two studs on the bottom that are the one that are attached to the water chambers in the head. Do I now have to take of the exhaust and then the whole unit as one piece? Looks like this is the case I did a search here and I guess you have to pull both and then separate them if you want to once both are removed - Correct?? Now the questions people may want to argue with.... I got some feedback that people did not like the Langdon carb - it seems fine to me, but any more info would be helpful..... because with the intake and exhaust off - now would be the time to do dual exhaust. It would also be the time to change to dual carbs and a different intake if maybe I should..... *** I really do not want to spend the money on that - rather do front disks and have universal joints to repair*** Langdon also has a dual exhaust set up that also looks good. He also sells a way to deal with heating the fuel air mixture using hot water and an adapter that sits btwn the two manifolds - again other suggestions??? Thanks in advance for any info. Quote
deathbound Posted January 14, 2015 Report Posted January 14, 2015 I've done everything you describe. Currently have Langdon's cast iron (Fenton style) headers, Sharp dual carb intake with the 2 barrel carbs Langdon sells (run great right out of the box) with the plate for pre-heat, his carb adapters & air cleaners. I plan to change back to dual stock carbs and have them rebuilt by George Asche, because I like the look of the original carbs. I'm also using the HEI Langdon's sells. If you decide to run a dual carb intake with the hot water pre-heat, make a gasket from gasket material/sealer for the plate. DO NOT use a stock gasket that is used where the stock intake/exhaust bolt together. It is a piece of aluminum (?) sandwiched between gasket material, which WILL leak coolant (did in my case TWICE til I figured it out). Good luck. Quote
Don Coatney Posted January 14, 2015 Report Posted January 14, 2015 Yes the manifolds come off as a pair. There are 13 fasteners where the manifolds attach to the block. 1 Quote
52Suburban Posted January 14, 2015 Author Report Posted January 14, 2015 Thanks for the help! Any alternatives to the Langdon headers. Thought I saw some at Red's headers - not there anymore and I also thought I saw that someone converted the stock manifold to two outlets - but I can not find that..... 1 Quote
Don Coatney Posted January 14, 2015 Report Posted January 14, 2015 52Suburban, on 14 Jan 2015 - 02:13 AM, said: Thanks for the help! Any alternatives to the Langdon headers. Thought I saw some at Red's headers - not there anymore and I also thought I saw that someone converted the stock manifold to two outlets - but I can not find that..... There is a guy who has done a lot of dual conversions on the stock manifolds by the name of George Asche 814-354-2621. Call him. He did the conversion on my manifold seen in the photo above. Quote
steveplym Posted January 14, 2015 Report Posted January 14, 2015 Look up rusty hope for the split manifold. Old daddy on this forum. He did mine and did a great job. Quote
Mike Petersen Posted January 14, 2015 Report Posted January 14, 2015 Reds headers are a really nice. But I think the vintage style parts just look better. Fenton parts on mine.Bought a set of the Reds then found the Fentons at a price no man could refuse. Quote
TodFitch Posted January 14, 2015 Report Posted January 14, 2015 Mike do you want to sell. . . Buy/sell communications should either be in the classified area or by PM. 1 Quote
fordkustom Posted January 14, 2015 Report Posted January 14, 2015 (edited) As Don mentioned, Goerge Asche can take your stock exhaust and split it I think it runs 150 langdon does make headers they cost a bit more and can be ceramic coated, so it comes down to how much you want to spend and if you want a more factory type look or not. Oh and don't forget to hit up moose on this forum I have talked with him and seen some of his work looks stellar. Edited January 14, 2015 by fordkustom 1 Quote
steveplym Posted January 14, 2015 Report Posted January 14, 2015 Here's some pics of my set up. Split manifold and Offenhauser intake with dual b&b's. 2 Quote
Mark D Posted January 15, 2015 Report Posted January 15, 2015 (edited) I've got Red's headers on my car. They work fine, do the job I tended, and you really can't see much of the, from the top side. I've si cd bought a pair of cast iron vintage Phillips headers, but those will go on after the engine requires a rebuild. For now, I'm happy. By the way the entire story of my transplant is in a thread archived here. http://p15-d24.com/topic/31047-my-offy-intake-reds-headers-transplant/?hl=%2Breds+%2Bheaders Edited January 15, 2015 by Mark D 1 Quote
Young Ed Posted January 15, 2015 Report Posted January 15, 2015 I've got Red's headers on my car. They work fine, do the job I tended, and you really can't see much of the, from the top side. I've si cd bought a pair of cast iron vintage Phillips headers, but those will go on after the engine requires a rebuild. For now, I'm happy. By the way the entire story of my transplant is in a thread archived here. http://p15-d24.com/topic/31047-my-offy-intake-reds-headers-transplant/?hl=%2Breds+%2Bheaders Haha are you calling the early 2000s vintage? They were in current production when I got my truck in 2000. Might have been 2001 when I talked to them. Quote
steveplym Posted January 15, 2015 Report Posted January 15, 2015 I've got Red's headers on my car. They work fine, do the job I tended, and you really can't see much of the, from the top side. I've si cd bought a pair of cast iron vintage Phillips headers, but those will go on after the engine requires a rebuild. For now, I'm happy. By the way the entire story of my transplant is in a thread archived here. http://p15-d24.com/topic/31047-my-offy-intake-reds-headers-transplant/?hl=%2Breds+%2Bheaders I checked into the red's headers and I wasn't sure if I would like the look vs. the split manifold. I'm happy with the split manifold, but those headers would have been a lot easier as I had the toughest time getting a good seal between the exhaust and intake manifold. I did get good at taking the manifolds off and back on though. 1 Quote
Andydodge Posted January 15, 2015 Report Posted January 15, 2015 Heres a couple of pics of the 230 I was intending to install in the Plymouth I had, as it was RHD the Fenton and other type of US made headers would not have cleared the RHD steering box nor the RHD clutch & brake pedals as they came thru........so I had a local blacksmith(yep they exist in Country Oz, lol) weld up the piar of Plymouth exhaust manifolds I gave him........would have worked quite well.........the intake is a new Offy, the finned head was from Earl Edgerton in California, the carbies are Oz GM strombergs and the water pump is an Oz GM Holden adapted to the block............dunno if this helps but.....here it is........oops also had a 1/2 race cam done and had already installed a Langdon HEI style dissy....best thing I did for the car.........but whatever YOU decide to do its your car........main thing is to use it......lol............regards, andyd 2 Quote
Don Coatney Posted January 15, 2015 Report Posted January 15, 2015 Andy, The front carburetor looks out of kilter. Is the manifold not square? Quote
BigDaddyO Posted January 15, 2015 Report Posted January 15, 2015 (edited) I have a kilter adjusting tool you can borrow if you need one. I also have a cattywhompus synchronizer that was my grandfathers. Edited January 15, 2015 by BigDaddyO 1 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 15, 2015 Report Posted January 15, 2015 come on guys..that forward carb is set up to function properly when the vehicle is coming off the line doing wheel stands.... 1 Quote
52Suburban Posted January 15, 2015 Author Report Posted January 15, 2015 (edited) I have a kilter adjusting tool you can borrow if you need one. I also have a cattywhompus synchronizer that was my grandfathers. Are these like a left handed monkey wrenches? :-) Edited January 15, 2015 by 52Suburban Quote
52Suburban Posted January 15, 2015 Author Report Posted January 15, 2015 I noticed in Don Coatney's post above - Thanks - that the intake and exhaust manifolds where they meet have bolt through them - is this stock? Mine - see below - do not - in fact there was no gasket between the either. Looks like there may have been - but no longer. Since I am going to the machine shop any way.... should I get this done??? Quote
TodFitch Posted January 15, 2015 Report Posted January 15, 2015 They are typically bolted together with a gasket. However yours looks like the heat riser plate has been removed and a plate welded in. So you may not need a gasket and without a gasket you may not need the bolts to clamp it. Quote
desoto1939 Posted January 15, 2015 Report Posted January 15, 2015 From looking at your picture it lloks as if there was a gasket. Since you will be bolting to pieces of castiron metal together I would put the gasket between the two halfs. It is easier now to do it since the two halfs are apart then having to take it all apart just to save a couple of bucks. Plus all of the aggrevations and the removal of the manifold nuts, etc. By putting the gasket in it will not hurt anything but if not there you do not know what might happen until you fire up the car. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 15, 2015 Report Posted January 15, 2015 (edited) per your pictures...you got a bit of cleaning up to do and get the holes prepared for proper installation..also remember that when these bolts and gasket are properly in place and functional..do not tighten them, just a light snug till all the manifolds nuts are on, and torqued in their proper sequence to proper specs...then tighten these four bolts...this is clearly outlined in the repair manual for you to ear mark while performing these procedures.. note in pic one the four broken/cut bolts...your unit has been Fritzed Edited January 15, 2015 by Plymouthy Adams Quote
Don Coatney Posted January 15, 2015 Report Posted January 15, 2015 My engine is a Desoto engine and the bolts are correct for my engine but not correct for your engine. As has been mentioned your heat riser has been defeated on your engine most likely because of the broken bolts. Correct repair would require machine shop work and it is your choice if you want to make the heat riser work again. Suggest you read everything in the Resources section of this web page found on the tool bar near the top of the page. That may help your decision on if or of not to repair. Also read the manifold information in your shop manual on correct procedures to install the manifold. If you don't have a manual get one as they can be found doing an internet search. Suggest you get a hard copy as opposed to a disc copy. Quote
hkestes41 Posted January 15, 2015 Report Posted January 15, 2015 Here are the Langdon's cast iron headers along with their intake and Carter Webber carbs. Quote
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