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5w-50 good for classic cars?


54Illinois

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Vaporization by definition is a change of state from a liquid to a gas. Boiling water is the best example. The boiling point of motor oil is close to 600 degrees Fahrenheit. So I don't believe the oil actually changes state in a engine but it does splash and form a mist with small particles of oil floating around in the crankshaft atmosphere. But that is just my opinion and not scientific fact.  

 

As far as adding oil to the filter canister on a by-pass filtration system the choice is yours. The by-pass system is designed to supply oil to the critical engine parts first and the excess oil then goes through the filter. The full flow system I have in my Desoto engine works somewhat the same way. The engine must first be satisfied before the oil flows through the filter.  But unlike the by-pass system once the engine oil demand is satisfied then 100% of the oil goes through the full flow filter before it goes to the engine.

 

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I have a rebuilt flat head six that I plan to start up in a few months from now.  I read in an old manual that I should use 10 w non-detergent oil to break in the new engine.  Has that advice changed now? 

Suggest you read the information on this linked thread then form your own opinion.

 

http://forums.aaca.org/f120/non-detergent-oil-260469.html

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I always put a quart in with the filter. Easy to do and it can't hurt anything so why not? The shop that rebuilt both of my flatheads had me run non detergent 30W for the first 500miles.

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I love talking about oil....in my experience I have ran just about every weight of oil in my 230, along with different brands. 

 

Not once have I heard a strange noise, loss of pressure, higher pressure, pinging, slap, etc.

 

Do what makes you feel good, and follow advice from trusted car friends. 

 

Whenever you can, buy it cheap and stack it deep!

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I followed your link on oil Don, and after about the tenth post of those eggheads peeing in each others post toasties,

I followed the Bobtheoilguy link instead........him I can understand..lol.

 

My oil is 30W elcheapo, after it is drained I use it in my lawn mower/rototiller/snowblower/etc, then it is drained again and used in my oil burner that is used to heat the garage during the winter months.

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I had a chat with an engine oil expert from Castrol in the Netherlands after I rebuilt my engine. He recommended Castrol High milage. Just because our engines have a larger gap at the bearings then modern engines have. So high milage is more suitable for that beause i'ts a little thicker at higher temperatures, creating a better film on the bearing surface. He also recommended to install an oil pump that would have a higher volume output. That's for cooling the bearing surfaces by a higher volume oil passing them. He told me this is a major factor in bearing wear. Special oil for breaking in the engine was nor needed. Just change the oil after about 300 miles.

My personal opinion on cheap engine oil....it could work. But I 've spend over €4000 and 4 years on getting the right parts to get the job done. What's €30 on engine oil per 2000 miles when gas costs €1,70 per liter over here. (1 galon is 3.6 liter). Is not worth the risk to me. I sleep better this way. ;)

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I just buy the old formula Rotella. They still make it for the old 2 cycle Detroit diesels which require it. By the drum, plenty of zddp whether you need it or not, top grade oil, cheaper than Wallyworld. Can't compete with $1 quart, though.

Only downside is some people seems to think they can just crank out a few quarts. I have plenty, right?

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Shell rotella t 30w or 15/40 .(for diesel's) Has zddp additive.

Current formula does not, it's far less than it used to be. EPA stuff. You can get the old formula, as I mentioned in another post, but most distributors don't know, and I'm not sure you can get it in less than a drum. I think the last with full zddp was H. Last time I checked J was the current version which has far less zddp.

I'll let others argue about whether you need it, but if you think you do, do some research before buying, things are changing all the time.

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I usually just run straight 30w. My brother used to run 5w-something in his '49, leaked out almost as fast as he could pour it in, finally ran it out of oil and seized the engine. Your experience may vary.

 

5W? Aint that hydraulic oil?

 

I have heard it depends on how cold it gets. Use the lighter weights for easier starts on cold mornings such as 10-15W.

But I have lived where it gets pretty cold and never had any problem using the heaver weights such as 30W.

I have also been told that variable weight oil such as 10W40 will 'adjust' to the requirements of your engine. If its cold it adjusts to lighter weight for easier starts. Or if your engine is worn and requires the heavier weight then the oil will run on the heavier side. I guess it does but I never really liked the idea. I was also told that it will only adjust one time then after that it remains in the same ball park from then on. Its magic oil.

 

I have always looked at it by how much oil is getting past the rings. New engines will use the lighter weight oils such as straight 15W. As rings and bearings wear I go to a straight 20W, then last will be a straight 30W. When compression starts getting past the rings with 30 weight its about time for a rebuild. Gotta remember the heavier weight oil will wear rings and bearings to match. So you cant use a 30W then drop back to a 20W. In any event a compression test will tell, that or the smoke coming out the exhaust.

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5w is not a hydraulic oil.  5w-  is a common usage in modern engines.  They use additives to thicken the oil as it gets warmer and as friction modifiers to maintain an oil film on  moving parts.  Your straight weight oils may not compensate for engine temp changes the way multi weight oils do.  Your best bet on the modern engines is to use the weight oil recommended by the manufacturer.  0w-20, 30  and 40 is becoming more common.  That said, some hydraulic systems use motor oil as their fluid of choice.  Lubricant recommendations for the engines built in the 40's and 50's were based on the available technology of the times. Now 50 to 60 years old, much is still viable.  Old technology or new, your choice, either will work.

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Run synthetic, run 30W, run high mileage oil, run dollar tree oil, run detergent oil...it doesn't matter...all of them are VASTLY SUPERIOR to the oils that were run in these cars when they were BRAND NEW! And for you Zinc worshippers it is only needed for cam break in, not forever.....and even if it was, once again there is more zinc in today's modern oils than there was in production oils of yore......thats why the old mechs used zinc enriched break in oils, drained them after the cam trial and put REGULAR OIL in the engine.

Your choice of dog collars..... I'll take a sturdy plain one please.

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Run synthetic, run 30W, run high mileage oil, run dollar tree oil, run detergent oil...it doesn't matter...all of them are VASTLY SUPERIOR to the oils that were run in these cars when they were BRAND NEW! And for you Zinc worshippers it is only needed for cam break in, not forever.....and even if it was, once again there is more zinc in today's modern oils than there was in production oils of yore......thats why the old mechs used zinc enriched break in oils, drained them after the cam trial and put REGULAR OIL in the engine.

Your choice of dog collars..... I'll take a sturdy plain one please.

Yup, gotta agree , I reckon complicated minds just complicate simple matters, just the way it is......

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