Smokeybear Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 Well, there's no turning back now. I pulled the L6 and three speed to make room for the 360 and 5 speed. I've got the new engine and trans in place after going through them. I made a new trans crossmember and "massaged" the passenger firewall. It fits pretty well. Here's the progress pics. You may also notice I completely rebuilt the front suspension and moved the lower spring buckets to the bottom of the A-arms. I added new aerostar springs as well. I've got the power booster and MC in place along with the clutch MC and the pedals mounted. I've got a long way to go but so far so good. This is what happens when I start a simple re-wiring project. LOL. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobT-47P15 Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 Looking good so far....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrstory Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 Awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Now there are two!! Keep the pics coming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfarer Posted November 19, 2014 Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 Damn, that should run just fine! I hope that you are going to share a lot more detailed pics of the various install issues. I get plenty of calls from folks wanting to pick my brain on this kind of swap and would happily refer them to your build thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokeybear Posted November 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 Damn, that should run just fine! I hope that you are going to share a lot more detailed pics of the various install issues. I get plenty of calls from folks wanting to pick my brain on this kind of swap and would happily refer them to your build thread. Yes, I've got a bunch of pics and I've taken fairly meticulous notes. Once I get it fired for the first time so that I know I've done everything correctly I'll add step by step instructions on the swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted November 19, 2014 Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 Nice! Should make a great cruiser. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YukonJack Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 Interesting looking front shock mounts. What are they from and what shocks are you using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokeybear Posted November 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 Interesting looking front shock mounts. What are they from and what shocks are you using? Those are a story in themselves. LOL. They are actually the rear shock mount/ubolt brackets that are original to the car. I used some 3/16 flat stock to make a mount to weld to the frame, then cut the shock mount down to use only 3 of the original 5 holes in it. Bolted that to the mount. It works well. The shocks are some I had lying on the shelf from another project. I'm not even sure what they are for actually. I can get the numbers off of them if needed. I'll also get some better pictures of the mounts and post them up also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FESTER60 Posted November 21, 2014 Report Share Posted November 21, 2014 Sweet! How in the world did you squeeze that exhaust manifold next to the steering? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted November 22, 2014 Report Share Posted November 22, 2014 Your first clue will be the length of the front motor mounts where they fasten to the frame. I'd guess the motor is offset to the right about an 1 1/2 " to 2" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokeybear Posted November 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2014 Sweet! How in the world did you squeeze that exhaust manifold next to the steering? Your first clue will be the length of the front motor mounts where they fasten to the frame. I'd guess the motor is offset to the right about an 1 1/2 " to 2" Yup, 1 5/8 to the passenger side. It may actually go back over a bit when I get the rack and pinion installed. I'm waiting on parts for that. Besides that I got some work done today... Here are those shock mounts I mentioned... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted November 23, 2014 Report Share Posted November 23, 2014 What is your evaporator/heater core box from? It looks like it fits really nice under the dash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokeybear Posted November 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2014 What is your evaporator/heater core box from? It looks like it fits really nice under the dash. Mid 90's Dakota. Same as the trans, power brake booster and MC, pedals, and other miscellaneous parts. I bought a truck that someone had cut the cab and bed off of to make a "fun buggy". It was running and driving. I pulled what I needed and scrapped the rest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokeybear Posted November 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2014 Moving along, the power rack and pinion and steering column is in. It fits VERY nice... Now that all the mechanical items are sorted, I'll be starting on the part of the project that got me started in the first place...the wiring. I'll post up pics of the radiator install tomorrow, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fstfish66 Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 engone looks great sittign in there,,, great idea on the front shock brackets,,, lets see some pics of the rack install please,,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokeybear Posted December 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2014 engone looks great sittign in there,,, great idea on the front shock brackets,,, lets see some pics of the rack install please,,, Sorry it took me so long, it's been a busy week at work. Here are some pics of the rack install... You can see the bracket I fabbed to use the original tie rods. I also got the instrument cluster installed... It was hard to get a good picture with the curved plexiglass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fstfish66 Posted December 14, 2014 Report Share Posted December 14, 2014 now thats very interesting,,,your modifacation to use the stock steering linkage with that rack,,,cant see the end of the bracket you made,,,looks doubled over for support,,, how long till you try to drive it ,,,will be interestign to hear how it works,,,looks like it should be no problem,,,good idea,,,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ulu Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 Yes some better pics would tell more. The one thing you do not want is the inner tie rod ends to move up and down (due to bracket deflection or movement) as you drive. Related to that, If the bolted connection to the rack relies on friction alone, for rotational alignment, you will probably have issues. If you have "socketed" or keyed the bracket to the rack, that part will be far more secure. That long arm you added, however, means that the steering has a lot of leverage over whatever keeps the rack aligned. In a hard left turn, deflection of the left tire will cause some serious jacking forces on the end of the new bracket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 Is that one of the Rag type joints flexing for steer column alignment or a a real u-joint? The Rag type doing a flex motion do not last long if so, with bad results. Just want ya safe! DJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 rag joints are made with metal to the tune that the rag as you call is the isolation portion...and on failure will result in metal to metal back up.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ulu Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 "...failure will result in metal to metal back up......." With a goodly slop though. But a rag joint isn't intended for much (if any) any axial misalignment. The shafts must be in line or you'll rip it slowly apart. It can also cause "notchy" steering feel & wear on the steering pinion input seal. OK for a puttering trailer queen, but as a daily driver it's not reliable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 not reliable....what do you think they used for umpteen years..how many of these cars/trucks still have the original rag..more than you can fathom..how many are upgraded to a telescoping universal joint style..only those that enjoyed a retrofit of modern suspension in form of a clip...tell you what...go out and find one of these columns and entertain the removal without unbolting the rag...after defeat (no knife/saw please) come back and let me know how much you sweated and fought and fumed over that little rag... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokeybear Posted December 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 No, it's not a rag joint, it's the shaft that was original to the Dakota, two U-joints with a telescopic shaft. The fabbed piece was made by sandwiching the 48s original ends of the steering knuckle. (The fork at the end of the steering box that connects to the tie rods) so that I would get as close to the original geometry as possible. The rack is positioned so that the two bolts in the center section is in line with not only the lower control arm pivots but also with the line that goes between both steering arms of the spindle at ride height. There is no play up/down or side to side of the fabbed connection that I can tell. I'll be testing it out in the spring when the weather breaks. I'll let you guys know how it goes. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 I have used a number of the Dakota sliding shafts in conjunction with other racks and columns as needed..they are a very well made unit and easy to work with... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tailpipe47 Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 Very nice work. I am installing a 318 (5.2) with an NV3500 in my 49 Fastback and was wondering where the shifter comes up in regards to the seat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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