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Car is back together but still won’t start!


perrymedik

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I believe it was 68-69 when front park lamps went to amber and remained on with headlamps to enhance visibility. If I remember correctly this was also when amber in front and red at rear side marker lights were introduced. So circuits were arranged that all marker lamps were illuminated whether park or drive lights were selected.

side marker lights started in 68. I don't know if that was the same for the park lights

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. . . I also think I may need to make a minor adjustment to the Clutch.  Occasionally when at a stop, when I shift into First from neutral I will get a light grind, but never when shifting up through the gears, or down shifting to a stop.  Probably something minor. . .

Might just be an operator issue. :)

 

There are no synchros on first. When the engine is idling and you are in neutral the gears are spinning. Depress the clutch and they will still spin for a while. As suggested on a previous post, putting it into second which has synchros will stop the spinning and then you can go into first.

 

Or just hold the clutch pedal down for a few seconds before going into first or reverse.

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Regarding the radio issue....did you verify the speaker(s) is/are in good working order? Maybe the connections are dirty/loose?

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There have been some threads on radio repair. From home repair to send out refurbish.

 

The old wax capacitors that control the power to the tubes is a likely area to need replacement.

Tubes themselves.

The vibrator. Replacements available.Old vibrator can sometimes be flashed to bring it back to life.

 

An advanced search here will provide lots of reading.

 

One thread:

http://p15-d24.com/topic/3845-radio-repair-progress/?hl=%2Bradio+%2Brepair

 

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This report comes to you at 01:02 in the a.m.  Just got home.  Took the car to a friends house this evening, a distance of about 20-25 miles away.  It was evening and cold, so I had the headlights and heater running.  No problems.

 

The return trip was more of the same though a longer route for pleasure cruising, but with the defroster running in addition to the heater and the head lights. About 5 miles away from home when the car began to stutter and jerk.  I pushed in the clutch in and the engine return to normal running.  Letting the clutch back out it did the same thing.  Almost like it was fuel starved, but not.  I pulled over to the side of the road thinking that I had a transmission problem.  The car continued to run, and when the accelerator was given a push the engine revved up with no hesitation.  I crawled under the car and put my hand on the transmission as well as the pumpkin, both were warm, but not hot.  It is currently 38F outside and clear.

 

After sitting for a while and checking the engine compartment out for anything askew I buttoned everything back up and took off again.  I made it less then a mile when the symptoms re-appeared.  And this time the car died and didn't want to start, but while I was still rolling I managed to get it to start again and made it a few hundred feet when it died again and I had to resort to pushing it to a suitable pull off (and boy is that car HEAVY!!!)  

 

I turned off the lights, heater and defroster, and started the car again.  I noticed that the Ammeter jumped to almost the full "Charging" position.  This was unusual to see as it has normally sat at the Zero position, which if I understand the manual correctly is what is should read if the Alternator (Yes, single wire Alternator, not generator) is keeping up with the demand of the energy expended.

 

I pulled out my meter and measured across the poles of the battery and got a reading of 6.99v.  I was told by the guy at NAPA that as long as it was 6.4 or better with everything running then the Alternator was charging the battery and I should be fine for night time Operations.  I had tested the battery before leaving this evening with the engine and normal operating temp and the headlights on and heater running and if I recall it was around 6.6v-ish.

 

So I sat on the side of the road for about 15 minutes or so with the car running, but all the electrics turned off.  Then I took off again but this time with the heater and defrost off.  The car ran fine. I made it almost the remaining distance, but about 500-ish feet from the turn to the road my house is on, the same symptoms re-appeared and the car died.  While still rolling I was able to get it to start, and at this point I turned the head lights off, and made it the final distance to my garage without incident.

 

I THINK that this is a charging issue, and that with everything running the Alternator was not able to keep up with the demand.  I recall that the gentlemen I spoke to that sold me the Alt said that I can increase the Alt output by fitting it with a smaller pull wheel with would in turn increase the RPMs of the Alt.

 

However, before I go changing things, I need to check to make sure my wiring hasn't come loose.

 

And most importantly, I would like some feed back as to what the possible culprit for this problem would be if my assumptions are incorrect.  

 

Average speed there and back was between 30-40 MPH.  Oil pressure was a steady 40 PSI.  The Ammeter stayed at Zero, and the engine temp was a solid 160.  No clunking in the tranny with gear shifts or even when the car started to stutter.  I can not say that I noticed the dash lights or head lights dim at any time, but there were plenty of street lights so I may have missed that.  I checked the oil level on the side of the road after I had to push it to the side and it was full.  Heater was running on high as well as the defroster.  Headlights were on low beam.

 

Upon parking in the garage I disconnected the battery and attached my charger and it started off at an initial 50%, but climbed to 75% within a few minutes before I closed up shop and came inside.

 

Please feel free to ask any questions if there is a detail I did not mention.

 

Now for a late night snack and some sleep.

 

I'll see you all in the morning, I'm bushed!!!

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What do the guys here usually say? 

 

90% of electrical problems are fuel

90% of fuel problems are electrical.

 

As you already stated you would do, get a check of the electrical connections.

 

The temp high charge rate after having the lights, and blower motor going with the engine off sounds like something that should happen.

 

 If you can duplicate the problem again, before continuing to crank, you may want to determine if you have fuel in the carb, and fuel pump. (visual if glass bowl)

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You said...Upon parking in the garage I disconnected the battery and attached my charger and it started off at an initial 50%, but climbed to 75% within a few minutes...

 

Normally when the battery charger is first connected to the battery it shows the most amps and gradually drops down as the battery charges. What was the amp reading on the charger this morning after charging all night long?

 

Also a defective battery can show good voltage under no load. When you made attempts to start your car did the starter motor spin normally or very slow? You might have your battery load tested. Most any auto parts store will do this for free.

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TodFitch: I purchased the Alt from www.qualitypowerauto.com.  It is the 7127 6V which according to the web page for that model "Our high output replacement alternators are able to produce 60 Amp max - 40 amp idle"

 

I am not able to verify what it is putting out at idle or when revved because my meter says it will blow up if I measure over 10 amps.  :angry:

 

Shel_ny: First thing this morning I went out and validated that all of my electrical connections were solid, so that rules out a loose wire not permitting constant charge.

 

While I was on the side of the road last night I did do some investigation into the fuel system.  My first check was the inline fuel filter.  I had fuel in it and did not have any visible blockages.  I then took off the Air Cleaner and checked to make sure that the Accelerator pump was functioning correctly and it was.  When I started the car up again, with all the electrics off I again looked down the throat of the Carb and all seemed as it should, and the motor was purring like it had been all day.

 

The car is currently out in the garage running to warm up.  All electrics are off.  Once at running temp I'll measure voltage across the battery terminals, then turn on all the electrics and measure what the drop is and report back with my findings.

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Update.  I just went and tested the following after bringing the engine up to operating temp:

 

Idle is running between 600-625 RPM.

 

Battery test:

-No electrical accessories running: 6.34v

-All electrical accessories running: 6.53v gradually rising to and leveling off at 6.88v with the Ammeter in the car showing 10-ish on the Charge side.

-Turn off all accessories and the motor: 6.94v

 

Don Coatney: I apologize for not answering your questions before. I some how missed them.

But to answer:

1. The charger was reading 100% this morning.

2. When attempting to start the car last night and this morning I did not notice the starter sounding slower or sluggish.  I will admit that my mind was racing a bit as it was midnight, and my wife and son were asleep and sick and I didn't want to make that call.  Plus, towing is pricey!  :P

3.  The battery is but a few months old, but I will take it up to NAPA once I post this to be load tested.  I'll also see if they can tell me what kind of AMPs the ALT is pushing.

 

Back with more info in a bit.

Thanks!

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Are you running negative ground with the switch to the alternator?  If so did you switch the leads on your coil?  if you did switch to neg ground, assure that the + coil terminal is connected to the ign switch and the - post goes to the points.   Also after you have driven for a while check the temp of the coil.  If you can not comfortably keep you hand on it, it is too hot and could be a sign the coil is braking down and needs to be replaced.

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Don Coatney: I did have my Cell phone, and my insurance does cover towing.  But I hadn't thought of that to be honest.

 

Greg g: No, I have not switched to Neg Ground.  Still 6v Pos Ground.  I checked the coil when I got back just now and it was comfortably warm.  Plus its new.

 

Took the car up to NAPA and talked to my guy up there.  The battery and ALT are fine.  He took a look at my inline fuel filter and pointed out that even though there isn't enough sediment in there to block it, the fact that it has less then 50 miles on it, and has sediment in it is an indication that the tank wasn't cleaned well enough.

 

802896CF-3E42-47AE-BE24-6E80CA90B3AB.jpg

He theorizes that the filter in the tank is getting clogged from sediment and that is causing the engine to stop.  He says that explains why after I stop for a minute I can restart the engine because the sediment has moved away because the fuel pump isn't sucking it in to the filter.  He also says that the fact that the starter cranks right over is an indicator that the battery and charging system are solid.

So, with that in mind, I'm going to siphon out the fuel tank, drop it and try to clean it out the best that I can.  I'm sure someone will recommend just getting a new tank all together and while that is not a terrible idea, it does cost money.  Cleaning the current one myself is free, and gives me something to do on a Saturday afternoon.

 

I'm off to do that now.  Let me know if anyone has any major objections or reasons why this wouldn't be a reasonable step.

Thanks!

Cory

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Greg g: Great idea.  I'll add that to the process.

 

Don Coatney: I believe so.  If it were not I would imagine I would have had problems on my shorter runs around town, and if not, at least on the trip down to my friends house.  But take a look at the pics and tell me if I'm wrong.  It's been known to happen (often).  :D

 

0E33AF48-825D-4FFE-8B11-4988FB485EA6.jpg

 

A0D922A8-DCEF-4327-9186-DF0789AB74EE.jpg

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Don Coatney: Will do.

 

Slight problem with my plan to drop the tank.  I can't get the nuts to come loose with out causing the tank straps to tear.  So, tank siphoned out, then opend the drain plug in the bottom to get the rest out.  Disconnected the fuel line and connected my air compressor to it and blew it out.  Put the drain plug back in and enough fuel to reach the middle of the filter and blew it again, then as I was running the air through it I opened the drain plug and kept the air going until the tank was empty.  I don't see any sediment as I look in through the top where the Sending Unit is, but there is still a whole lot of tank left that I can't see.

 

I'll button it all back up and see what happens, but I may end up needing to purchase new straps to pull it proper, or new straps and a new tank.  We'll see if the problem resurfaces after this.

 

Any other suggestions on how to clean this better while it is still in place are welcomed!

 

Thanks!

 

Cory

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When you first blew compressed air into the tank did you hear a "pop"? There may have been a sintered bronze filter in the tank such as pictured below. If this filter was plugged there is no way to clean it. So if it blew off the fuel line no big deal. That may have fixed your problem or it may not have fixed your problem. However you should install an inline filter somewhere between the tank and fuel pump and a good idea to install another filter between the pump and carburetor. I shy away from using the plastic melt able filters between the pump and carburetor. 

 

post-16-0-98394300-1421525181_thumb.jpg

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Don Coatney:  Nope, didn't hear anything pop.  The inline filter pictured in post #268 is between the fuel tank and the fuel pump, and is located under the drivers door.  It is glass and metal construction.

 

The more I fiddle with this tank the more I am realizing that what i though was just discoloration of the metal is actually sediment.  I think I will try to scrap as much of it as I can to the center and then suck it up with a vacuum or something.  I can tell you its not very magnetic as I have been fishing around in there with a magnetic extending rod and coaxing it all towards the center.

Still noodling this process out.

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