plymouthfury Posted September 23, 2014 Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 I have a 1949 Chrysler NewYorker thats equipped with a straight 8 and fluid drive. The car is pretty much original and untouched. Recently I started having some problems. I tried researching on the forums but didn't find anything that was like my problem unless I missed it. I've been driving the daily for a few months. A few weeks ago...one day after leaving the house and heading up a slight hill the car started bucking as if the car was starving for fuel. I kept her going by pushing the clutch in and revving the engine up before letting the clutch back out. I had to do this several times to prevent stalling on the hill and blocking traffic. By the time I got the car to a parking lot the problem was gone. And the car idled and drove fine. I continued driving the car daily for a few more weeks when two days ago the issue happened again after taking the car on a 2 hour drive. I made a turn up a slight incline after sitting at a stoplight and she started acting up. I pushed in the clutch and started tapping the throttle and after 3-4 pumps the motor would pick back up. Again i would have to push in the clutch and pump the gas to keep the car running and ride the clutch. I did this several times before the car started running properly again. I made it to the destination and parked... after probably an hour I got back in the car and proceeded to make the 2 hour drive back. I didn't seem to have any problems. After 1.5 hours of driving I stopped and parked. The car sat for probably 20 minutes. I fired the car up and as soon as I pulled onto the highway...slightly up hill...the car started bucking. This time however there was no keeping the car moving. I had to pull off the road into the grass and she died. She started right up without much trouble. But as soon as I tried moving the car would start stalling. I did get her into a parking lot but then I couldn't get the problem to show up. The car idled fine. She was getting fuel and spark. I then made the 40 minute drive back home and had a few instances where she'd start bucking but she'd smooth out and run fine. I tried a full throttle acceleration and she would act as if not getting fuel and start sputtering and losing power then pick back up and start dying then pick back up. The car is a bit hard to start when hot and you can really smell the gas after shutting down after a drive. It also seems that the fuel drains from the carb after the car sits overnight. It kinda led me to believe that there was a fuel pump issue. Maybe an ignition issue as well. Any other ideas? I figured I'd do a full tune up on the car and replace the fuel pump. Rebuild the carb. Check the fuel lines for cracks and add an inline fuel filter. Currently there isn't one. Also maybe drop the tank and check for trash and whatnot. Where can I get a fuel pump for a Chrysler straight 8? Or a rebuild kit? They seem to be non existant. Also what about ignition parts? Where can I source a carb rebuild kit as well? I also need a water pump as this one is a bit worn out. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted September 23, 2014 Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 Antique Auto Parts Cellar should have rebuild kits for your fuel pump, water pump and carburetor. And they can do the rebuild on those things too. Carburetor kits are probably also available through your local better auto supply store. Replacement water pumps for the 6 cylinder engine are being made, maybe the 6 and the 8 have the same pump. If so then you should be able to get it through your better local auto supply store too. Have you checked that the fuel pick up in the tank is not obstructed? Or the flex hose between the frame and the fuel pump? If the parts are old on the car then it is possible that your flex hose and the diaphragm in the fuel pump are being destroyed by the alcohol in today's gas. I've seen old rubber fuel line that looked good on the outside that was swelled closed on the inside because of today's gas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plymouthfury Posted September 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 The straight 8 is totally different in about every way it seems. Nothing interchanges with the flat 6. I can't find much of any parts at the parts houses. For example they list two types of distributor caps...but one photo shows a 6cyl cap...obviously their system isn't correct. I plan on replacing all the soft lines for good measure. I've seen small cracks cause the pump to start sucking air and cause similar issues. I haven't dropped the tank or anything like that yet. I first wanted to get some opinions before I tear the car apart! I'll look into this antique auto parts cellar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_shel_ny Posted September 23, 2014 Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 (edited) Recent similar thread. Found crap in the tank. As Tod suggested, have a look in the tank. Also maybe pour a bit of dry gas in. Water will not pass through the filter on the end of the pickup. Long shot, but it could possibly happen with the different position of the tank on an incline. And just to beat a dead horse again, try a volume test on the fuel pump before buying a new one. Edited September 23, 2014 by shel_ny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted September 23, 2014 Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 Did the car sit for a couple or more years before you started driving it? Meaning old varnished gas in the tank? Thats a big problem as the "oilite" non servicable filter in the tank could be plugging up. Tank has to come out and be opened up to properly remove the filter and clean tank. Eight cylinder tanks are 20 gallon not 17 like the 49-52 six cylinder cars. The factory fuel line fron the tank to the fuel pump has no filter installed in it. There is a fine mesh screen in the fuel pump. The steel fuel line could be rusted where it goes under the battery by acid and be pin holed. I have also seen rusted fuel lines at the front of the frame under the radiator support. The rubber hose at the pump could be leaking as you already know. Check the points/condenser and plugs or replace them. Normal thing to do when you first get a "new" old car. The coil when hot could be breaking down-usually the car will die and not start hot but will start cold. Pull the coil lead out of the dist. cap and hold the wire 1/2" from ground and crank engine while checking for spark-needs to be a blue snapping spark hot engine. The hard to find fuel pump is a #590. Have Antique Auto Parts Cellar rebuild it. The rebuilt or new water pump for a 323 chrysler 8 is really hard to find. You will have to have it rebuilt. $250.00 is a typical cost. Bob for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plymouthfury Posted September 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 The previous owner owned the car for 5 years and put probably 800 miles on the car in that time. Before that he said it was stored for a while. Its a California car and everything looks brand new underneath. The gas tank is still shiny and clean. (Atleast on the outside that is). I've just been driving the car daily to try and find and fix any problems that turn up. The car runs great...except with this stumbling issue occurs. I figure I'd go ahead replace all the normal service items. but even those are hard to come by it seems. Whats the best source for ignition parts? The parts houses have shoddy infomation or have nothing. My late 50s MoPars are a bit easier to get parts for. See I've had the problem when the car was cold as well. And the car starts right back up and idles. My best guess is the fuel. Clogging, failing pump, leak, etc. It is always under load and usually uphill. As far as opening up the tank. Does that mean cutting it apart or what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted September 23, 2014 Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 Probably the fuel pump. I had to replace one recently on my 50 T&C. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_shel_ny Posted September 23, 2014 Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 As far as opening up the tank. Does that mean cutting it apart or what? Remove the sending unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted September 23, 2014 Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 (edited) If you do get into checking the tank... Remove the sending unit as mentioned to look into the tank. Hopefully it is clean inside. If not and it's nasty/ rusty the tank should be cut open to really clean it and remove the oilite filter... all this if the radiator/vessel repair shop says it's cost effective. Your tank might be good though. One note though.... does your fuel guage work well? It might not after R&R ing the sender! Seen it too many times. There is a delicate 1" tall cone winding that is held to the sender mounting plate by a very small brass rivit. If you use a drift to work the round retainer ring off of the sender the cone will probably break off and thats the end of your good fuel guage operation. That ring needs to be rotated CCW smoothly so as to not vibrate the cone and break it. I'm lucky to have the factory tool for removal and install. Lube the sender wire screw before carefully removing it too. Bob Edited September 23, 2014 by Dodgeb4ya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plymouthfury Posted September 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2014 The gas gauge does work. I'll definitely try to be careful in removing the unit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plymouthfury Posted September 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2014 Popped the cover off and pulled the sending unit. Inside of the tank looks practically new. No varnish or sludge. There is some dirt/debris gathered in a couple small areas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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