ChrisRice Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 My car was running fine yesterday when I parked it. Today it won't crank. I recently changed oil and plugs (within past month). When I changed them I put a little bit of marvel oil in the plug holes. Today I drained the oil and pulled the plugs to ensure no interference with starting. The oil was black as night and plugs were sooty. I have driven it approx 20 miles since changing. I put a socket on crankshaft and it spun easily. Starter spins easily off of car, but isn't spinning the engine. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 starter drive doesn't engage the ring gear, broken starter drive or drive component, or ring gear came off the flywheel or is loose on it..- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisRice Posted August 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 That just lost me. I'm too novice at times. I know that when I spin the crankshaft by hand that the flywheel spins with it. It had been cranking very easily. I'm not sure what a ring gear is or how to check it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 With the starter off, look in the hole the starter came out of. The ring gear is the band of teeth on the flywheel itself. It it's out of place, cracked and spins on the flywheel without the flywheel turning, there's your problem. Someone else just posted here that had that happen. You should be able to stick a large screwdriver in there and pry against the teeth. Flywheel should turn. If it does turn with the screwdriver, check the teeth for wear, or missing and for how much they may be ground back. They're all the same length on their top edge when new so you should be able to make a comparison that way. You can try getting a pic of them and posting here if in doubt. That's ok, take the starter to a repair shop to have it checked. It's not hard to do but mire difficult to explain than checking the ring gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bamfordsgarage Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 ...Someone else just posted here that had that happen... That was me. See posts #1 and #13 for photos. http://p15-d24.com/topic/36273-ring-gear-came-off-flywheel-any-easy-fix/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisRice Posted August 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 I appreciate the help Dave. I know it's a pain to 'dumb it down' for some of us. I just spun the ring gear with a flathead screwdriver. I didn't see any missing teeth and teeth looked pretty good to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barabbas Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 the first thing I would check is the starting solenoid and electrical connections from the solenoid to the starter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisRice Posted August 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 I noticed the starter isn't spinning while on the car and is pulling quite a bit of power. Should I be looking at that instead? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisRice Posted August 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 I am bypassing electrical problems by using a jump box directly to the starter to eliminate that as a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisRice Posted August 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 I just tried something different. I hooked it up on 200amp/12volts on my jump box and it spun rapidly no problems. Tried again on 6 volt and nothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 yeah, the ring gear looks good. so probably looking at the starter itself. When you put the starter in did it fit. flush in the hole or did you pull it in with bolts. Was the drive spun all the way out to the end of the housing. itmay have gotten bound up during installation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 you may have to hook up the car's system to it to get it to work on 6v. 6v takes more amps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisRice Posted August 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 The starter fit flush. I'll have to pull it back off to check the starter drive. I did try hooking the 6 volt system back up as normal. I may have to pull it apart tomorrow and check it out inside as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 My son's 55 chevy was doing a similar thing. So I took it to a mech that only works on old starters and generators. this was in maine. He checked it out and immediately said your front bushings are shot. The rotor must rotate freely between the coils, if the bushing is out, then the rotor is rubbing/wearing on the coils and will draw a hat battery down in seconds. We had it rebuilt, and all was good. We also replaced the large #1 cables because when the starter grounds out, it plays havoc on those cables. They may look ok from the ends but only one spot internally will seriously damage them. I'm still a novice, so take this accordingly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisRice Posted August 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 That sounds like it could reasonably be the problem. I'll get the starter checked out as I think it needs some servicing anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nonstop Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 Where are you trying the 6 volts from? Is it from the key? Have you tried jumping the starter solenoid on the fender (with the car in neutral of course)? That would be my first place to check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 Do you have the correctly sized battery cables? Skinny 12 volt cables will not work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisRice Posted August 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 I have tried from the key as well as from the starter solenoid and directly to the starter itself. Also battery and starter wires are 2 gauge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martybose Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 I have tried from the key as well as from the starter solenoid and directly to the starter itself. Also battery and starter wires are 2 gauge. 2 gauge is marginal; most of us on 6 volts have upgraded to 00. Marty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ledfootslim Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 I appreciate the help Dave. I know it's a pain to 'dumb it down' for some of us. I just spun the ring gear with a flathead screwdriver. I didn't see any missing teeth and teeth looked pretty good to me. Hey Chris, don't worry- there are those of us out here even dumber than thyself! Hope you get started back up soon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niel Hoback Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 After twenty years of ownership I learned that the fancy brass battery cable ends I used do not work as well as the cheaper lead ones. The brass clamp does not conform to the post like a lead one will. The starter spins considerably faster with all lead connections. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisRice Posted August 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 Hmmm. I just changed to brass because a lead one broke. Maybe I need to change back to lead ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 The following may or may not be factual. Electrical conductivity of metals I'd read in a lot of places that lights, etc are built with brass instead of aluminum/aluminium for better electrical conductivity.However, real data proves otherwise.In order of electrical conductivity (relative to copper)Material IACS % ConductivitySilver 105%Copper 100%Gold 70%Aluminum/Aluminium 61%Nickel 22 %Zinc 27%Brass 28%Iron 17%Tin 15%Phosphor Bronze 15%Lead 7%Nickel Alum. Bronze 7%Steel 3 to 15%That's right, Gold is only 70% as electrically conductive as copper.Brass is only slightly more than 25% as conductive as copper.There are other factors, not the least of which, are solderability and corrosion resistance. But for electrical conductivity, It's tough to beat copper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lumpy Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 Okay...I want some silver cable ends. What's the cost on those? I'm throwing those crappy gold ones away. According to the data, brass is more better, than lead, but still not great. I suppose that since there is a lot of contact area with cable ends, they must conduct better than what the percentages suggest. Seems like copper ends wouldn't be too expensive to make...wonder why thy don't make them. Or do they? ken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 What I find interesting about that information is Silver is rated at 105% Does that mean silver generates 5% on its own? How can anything be better than 100% Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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