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Posted

one small project to upgrade or repair usually tends to lead to another related issue and then another...some folks will buy new trim and emblems or have theirs replated only to find that these pieces outshine the car in so many ways that next thing you know, they are painting the car..once painted you realized the interior is super shabby..the forever shifting of the sand...like dropping a big block full blown engine in and saying, I refuse to put gas in the tank..

Posted

one small project to upgrade or repair usually tends to lead to another related issue and then another...some folks will buy new trim and emblems or have theirs replated only to find that these pieces outshine the car in so many ways that next thing you know, they are painting the car..once painted you realized the interior is super shabby..the forever shifting of the sand...like dropping a big block full blown engine in and saying, I refuse to put gas in the tank..

 

Well you know I wasn't going to tell Don that since he'll have the dash out and the windshield trim the new headliner and windlace goes behind those pieces......

  • Like 1
Posted

Well you know I wasn't going to tell Don that since he'll have the dash out and the windshield trim the new headliner and windlace goes behind those pieces......

Dang sand line just wont quit :mad:

 

To do or not to do? That is the question.

 

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  • Like 1
Posted

Don if you're doing turn signals do yourself a favor and buy a new signal stat 900. Much better unit than those cheapy things.

Posted

is it really a line in the sand or the never ending battle within ourselves to repair and improve..

 

 

Don if you're doing turn signals do yourself a favor and buy a new signal stat 900. Much better unit than those cheapy things.

Will do Ed.

 

It appears my headlight buckets are welded in solid with rust and paint. I may end up drilling the screw out.

 

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Posted

Not one of those fancified electric ones.

 

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Look again. Mines in the middle of the speed wrench. Doesn't have a fancy pouch

Posted

Don if you're doing turn signals do yourself a favor and buy a new signal stat 900. Much better unit than those cheapy things.

Is the signal stat 900 built for big trucks? Every one I have looked at so far lists 18wheelers as the application.

Posted

Is the signal stat 900 built for big trucks? Every one I have looked at so far lists 18wheelers as the application.

 

Quite possibly but if you buy a harness with signals from RI wire or YnZ(Im not sure which the guy used) its what he got though too. I have one in both my 46 & 48 all I did was change the inside bulb to 6v. The directions even tell you what bulb to swap in for  24v applications!

Posted

Looks like I can find the signal stat 900 for about sixty bucks.

 

I got lucky and was able to pull the harness without removing the bucket. I have not yet looked but I assume I can but replacement headlight 3 prong receptacles most anywhere. 

 

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  • Like 1
Posted

Ed, where did you find these connectors? I will need a lot more.

 

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I found the headlight pigtails at Summit for three bucks each. I could not find any on the autozone webpage.

Posted

Ed, where did you find these connectors? I will need a lot more.

 

P7250001.jpg

 

I found the headlight pigtails at Summit for three bucks each. I could not find any on the autozone webpage.

 

They are called flag terminals. I think I got them from McMaster.

Posted

I used a Signal Stat from YnZ wiring ten years ago for my 50 Plymouth. I ordered the black one and repainted the housing and its clamp (with a spray can) the same color as my steering column. It looks like it belongs there.

Posted

The wiring from Rhode Island and the other companies that reproduct the original collor scheme and sticker scheme is using modern wire that is plastic coated. So they have newer wire and then just slip on the appropriate color base wire with the appropriate sticker.  I do not know it this is briaded onto the new wire or just the new wire pulled thru the outer cover.

 

So yes you are paying more for the wire than if you just purchased some 14 gage electrical wire at Home Depot.  But also rememeber that htey are attaching the proper ends, and the rubber covering on each end marking the wire as to it location and then also braiding the entire loom inthe appropriate cover.

 

They do a great job and have a fine quality control. I met with them and showed them where they had made a 39 Desoto and Doge wireing harness and used cloth tape  winding and they shoudl have used the Braided loom with a blue stricker. I had the factory wire harness and showed them this when they were at Hershey.  They then changed to the correct loom.

 

So they make every effort to get it correct.  So basically if you want the correct llok then go with the big guns but if you are not concerned about the authentic look then create your own wireing harness and wrap with black cloth tape. 

 

It takes time but can be done and if you are not in a hurry it will look period correct.

 

Rich HArtung

  • Like 1
Posted

I really like both Y n Z and Rhode Island. I have done a few cars using their wiring harnesses.

Of course all I do is OE resto's for the customers.

Bob

Posted

Don

Good luck with your project!

I had the same issue with fire that you had and decided to rewire my D-24 over the winter.

I found a complete original wiring harness from the Brillman Company in Jackson VA.

It was a nice fit but at $700.00 was very expensive! OUCH!1

Posted

Don, keep those "progress" pics coming as I need all the help I can get !!!  :rolleyes:  I too, as much as I didn't want to, have come to the conclusion that taking out the dash is the "only" way to make this a "do-able" install !!!   :mad:   :confused:

Posted

The dash is not that hard to remove if you remove the steering wheel first. Some help for the final pull makes it easier, the dash is not heavy, just clumsy. I have two to rewire. Will do them myself, I've come to enjoy that work. Keeps my mind sharper.

Posted

I am a bit confused. The Rebel instructions state that if using an amp meter the 10 gauge wire from the fuse panel goes directly to the amp gauge. The return wire from the amp gauge goes directly to the plus side of the battery connection on the starter solenoid.

 

Then on another page it states connect the power wire from the alternator directly to the plus side of the battery connection on the starter solenoid. Seems to me that by wiring it this way the alternator output would be in a loop and the amp gauge would read zero unless I am missing something. 

 

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