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reciever trailer hitch for a P10


David Strieb
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    Boy this forum has changed since I last logged on, I like it !   I did a search on trailer hitches, but the information I found was a little weak.  I have a 15' 1964 Santa Fe travel trailer I want to tow with my P10. I thought I had seen where an explorer hitch was almost a bolt on? I was quoted $550.00 to have one proffesionaly made....just wondering if there's a less expensive route? Thanks, David Strieb

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Dave...many receiver hitches can easily be altered to mount properly to the rear frame section but I personally cannot stress the importance enough to also have a forward attachment to the frame some 12-15 inches beyond the rear cross section to prevent rocking due to tonque weight and rocking with start and storp..the very rear cross piece is NOT strong enough on its own to haul more than a tiny utility trailer with no more than a mower on it..and to that I still say be careful......second and more important is that I know of no collectors car insurance that will insure this trailer in use to your car...if you have collector insurance..please bounce this across the company before going ahead...and if you do have standard insurance and specific coverage..do not overlook the added braking capacity you will be needing on today's faster paced highways..

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    Your advice is well taken. After driving my P10 in it's stock configuration for 20+ years, it now has a fatman subframe, rack and pinion, 10" front discs, a V8, 4 speed auto and a modern rear end. The trailer also has electric brakes, so safe towing won't be an issue.  It's also a daily driver, so I carry regular insurance and the trailer (when attached to the car) is covered along with the car. I'm just looking for an easy alternate to having something totally custom fabricated.  Thanks, David

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Dave...many receiver hitches can easily be altered to mount properly to the rear frame section but I personally cannot stress the importance enough to also have a forward attachment to the frame some 12-15 inches beyond the rear cross section to prevent rocking due to tonque weight and rocking with start and storp..the very rear cross piece is NOT strong enough on its own to haul more than a tiny utility trailer with no more than a mower on it..and to that I still say be careful......second and more important is that I know of no collectors car insurance that will insure this trailer in use to your car...if you have collector insurance..please bounce this across the company before going ahead...and if you do have standard insurance and specific coverage..do not overlook the added braking capacity you will be needing on today's faster paced highways..

 

he speaks wisdom

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I have a full frame hitch I removed from my s10. I,m thinking of using it in my 54 suburban. It fits between the frame rails and should work. I may need a width adjustment which. Is no big deal.

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I am thinking the one I modified was from a Ford Aerostar...I did not remove it from the vehicle at the wrecking yard..they were in a stack already removed..

 

The one on the Suburban I removed the original mounts from the standard draw bar and fabricated and welded the mounts from there as needed to attach.  It is a direct bolt on now using grade 8 hardware.  Again though be sure that the drawbar when mounted will transfer the weight to the main chassis each side..

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Hey, I have all the mounting hardware from my S-11, and the original owner used it to tow a trailer all over the place- I could post some pics if you are interested, its a very sturdy setup.

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   Thanks for all the input!!  I'll take some measurements and make a trip to the local parts yard when it cools down a bit, mid 90's in western wa. for the next few days!!!  Ledfootslim, I would be interested in some pics of the setup from your S-11, thanks.  I've seen some universal towing mirrors that attach with a strap to the doors, has anyone used these?  Thanks, David

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Mirrors strapped to the door a bungi cord are cool. Gives the truck a bit œof a georgia look! ! Lol

PP..you need a geography lesson..(old south)....the state of Georgia is held together by graft, corruption JB Weld and duct tape..coupled with an endless supply of gator gnats and skeeters..with a smattering of dillers...no bungi cords here..tie wrap or two maybe..and what is not taped or epoxied does not have sufficient rust to be of any real matter..

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Thanks for all the input!!  I'll take some measurements and make a trip to the local parts yard when it cools down a bit, mid 90's in western wa. for the next few days!!!  Ledfootslim, I would be interested in some pics of the setup from your S-11, thanks.  I've seen some universal towing mirrors that attach with a strap to the doors, has anyone used these?  Thanks, David

Well David, try as I might, I can't find the rascal......perhaps the victim of an innocent yard-cleaning, or the like. If I do find it, I will post some pics and dimensions.
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Well David, try as I might, I can't find the rascal......perhaps the victim of an innocent yard-cleaning, or the like. If I do find it, I will post some pics and dimensions.

Thanks for looking, I've spent a lot of time looking for missing parts only to find they were right where I put them!!!!!

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There are universal hitches available at places like tractor supply . they are width adjustable,but I believe you need to drill frame rails for final figment. You might want to check them out to see if they might work for you.

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David,

 

I have not built a hitch yet for my two Desoto's.  However, when we had the body off the frame on the '49 CV we removed the rear cross member which is nothing more than a place to bolt the body to and keep the rear frame rails at the correct distance apart.  If has no structural purpose.

 

What we did was to add a box plate as the boxing of the frame does not go all the way back on Desoto.  We then took some thick wall square tubing and welded that in place of the original rear cross member.  That tube has 4 holes in it that had thick wall steel tubes welded into them. No crush on the tube when hitch mounted.

 

The cardboard mock up for the hitch "slips" from underneath over the rear cross member and bolt through them both with 1inch bolts.  It them has a tube perpendicular to it running to the rear that the ball hitch goes into.  Where this tube crosses under the rear bumper there is a steel plate that goes up behind the bumper brackets.  It has a long narrow steel plate that follows the spring steel brackets and bolts to them with long bumper bolts.  The idea is to triangulate from the bumper brackets to the frame on both sides.  As we all know the bumper brackets run along the frame toward the front of the car past the rear cross member.  With the frame boxed, the rear cross member redesigned, and the triangulation, I figure I can tow to the limit of what the flathead six can pull.

 

James  

post-60-0-37765200-1405811537_thumb.jpg

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