rear bearing replacement

[DutchEdwin]

From my 1955 suburban the righe rear bearing is broken, play on the wheel when you twist it horizantal and vertical.

So needs replacement. I read the tech-forum about drum removal. Should be easy I had my drums off 10 years ago. Did put a little grease on the cone when I put them on again.

Is there an easy way to remove the axle and then the bearing without the special tools mentioned in the manual? 

thanks, Edwin.

[plyroadking]

I usually put the drum back on loosely after removing the backing plate, a few good jerks using the drum as a slide hammer against the castle nut usually convinces the axle shaft out.

[Joe Flanagan]

I've done it this way, too. 

[_shel_ny]

Bearing may be pressed on. May need to have a shop do that.

[DutchEdwin]

Thanks for all your advice....but guess what, After spending one evening behind the PC to find out the right bearings and seals the bearings do not need to be replaced after all.

What happened to me is that the drum came off the shaft just a little. Kind a funny though, for most of us are trying hard and cannot get it done.

I think I did not tighten the castle nut enough 10 years ago. The cotter pin is able to slide in the hole when the nut is thightened just a little. 

It could be I drove the care for 10 miles with it on a curvy road, but shaft and drum do not show a scratch. Problem solved, no harm done.  

One thing is for sure, I have proven the way on getting the drum off buy losening the nut a little and drive around the block will not hurt the shaft or drum.

One more thing, I did put some anti seize on the shaft to get it off easy the next time. My 2 cents.

 

Thanks, Edwin.

[DutchEdwin]

Oh, one more thing,

While I was at it I wanted to lubrcate the rear shaft bearings. I thought I would find a grease nipple, however I did find a stop that blocks the hole to get the grease in. Should there be a grease nipple or how do I get new grease in?

[nonstop]

Don't know how others have done it, but I just put nipples in the holes and they are now readily greasable. Mine had the plugs too.

Edited June 10, 2014 by nonstop

[RobertKB]

Remove the bolt/stop that is on each side and screw in a zerk fitting. Grease with appropriate bearing grease. Remove zerk and reinstall bolt. Not sure why it is this way but it is. Do not overgrease or you will find the excess grease on your brake linings as it will be forced passed the seal.

 

If you used modern bearing grease when you did it ten years ago, you should be good for a long, long time. Think of modern bearings on front wheel drive cars. The grease should last the life time of the car as they are a sealed unit and cannot be regreased. Many do 300,000+ kilometres.

Edited June 10, 2014 by RobertKB

[Young Ed]

Hope you put that axle nut on tight this time. The spec is minimum 160 ft lbs

[desoto1939]

I think they used the bolt to prevent a mechanic from just thinking it is a regular grease fitting and then put the grease gun on the zerk and give it a full push and then the force of the grease then goes past the seal and then you need a brake show replacement.

 

You are to remove the bolt and then push the grease into the hole with your finger tip this prevents you from over greasing the bearing.  So it really should not be done with a zerk put done by packing the hole by hand.

 

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

[DutchEdwin]

The grease looks a bit red and a bit semi-transparent. I do not know this type of grease, To my knowlegde normal and heat resitant grease is brown or brown with a mint green like color for the heat resistant. 

I think the chamber is full, when I push the grease forward with a little stick, it comes out of the hole.

Looked up the torque for the axle nut, 142 ft. lbs. minimum for the 1955 Plymouth.

[Joe Flanagan]

That red grease is common here in the USA. I use it on my vehicles. I believe the container says it is heat resistant, intended for use with bearings, etc.