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Smoking...cheap quick tricks?


jorswift

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Hey all. I just changed the oil in my P15 to Castro GTX high mileage, but prior to changing I put a bit of mystery oil in oil and gas. Now the car is smoking like crazy. I have a wedding to chauffeur this weekend and don't have time to do any major fixes. I know I may need to get it hot n drive it a few days to maybe burn it off. Anyone have any suggestions to anything? Engine honey or something? Thanks.

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DRAIN the gas and get that stuff out your gas tank pronto before you foul all the plugs and need to change them to. Oil change maybe if still smoking after some miles.

 

DJ

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Hi Jorswift

 

I had an engine in an Austin Healey Sprite that smoked like a chimney when I used GTX. I changed to a high weight Penrite HPR 50 oil with minimal detergents. Minimal smoke...

 

Apparently the de-sludging additives also thins the oil so that it esaily gets past the rings. I dont know if you can get penrite near you, but you need a specific classic car oil with preferably no detergents, and at least 40-50W. That should get you through the weekend.

 

Good luck!

 

Rick

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Yep, that's what I used. I know they say for high mileage, but I think they mean old 1980's. Not too good for our vintage...

 

Rick

I was told by a few others that this same oil stopped some smoking from other older cars. A guy put it in an old VW Bug, old truck, and an old show/parage go cart to stop smoking and worked in all.  We shall see about the Plymouth.

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One thing I've found out that applies across all vintage engine types is that multi-viscosity oils don't hold pressure as well as a good single viscosity oil. It's easy to see on the oil pressure gauge in back-to-back oil changes, especially on a warm day.

I won't use them in any vintage engine, and I won't recommend them to any of my customers for their engines, and if I've rebuilt the engine and they have used multi-viscosity oils and have troubles related to lubrication they are on their own. Excessively thinned oil will promote smoking.

In modern engines, it's a whole other story. 2-stroke engines are another thing altogether.

By vintage engines, I mean: Pratt & Whitney, Lycoming and Continental radials, Lycoming and Continental flat aircraft engines, BSA, Triumph, Norton, AJS/Matchless, Ariel, Case gas engines, all older mopar engines up through the LA series V-8's.

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One thing I have found out that applies to all vintage engines I have owned is running multi weight detergent oil is not a problem. I have over 40,000 miles on my current engine with no problems. I have used multi weight oil in Triumph, Norton, Briggs, and many other vintage engines with no problems.

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I have been using 15w40 Traveler All Fleet oil from Tractor supply for the past 4 or 5 years.  It is diesel rated but also says it's good for heavy duty gasoline engine.  20K  and no adverse reactions, idles at 25/30 psi hot runs 42/45 on the highway.  It is blended by warren Performance Products.  ZDDP is + 1200 PPM  Last I bought about 1.50 a quart.  It is available in qt, 4 qt and 2.5 gallon jugs.

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How much Mystery Oil did you add to the fuel? I always add this to my fuel with no smoking problems but I do what the bottle directions indicate. It is 4 ounces of oil for 10 gallons of fuel. It sounds like you may have added to much. If that is the case, it will burn off. Good luck to you.

John R

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How much Mystery Oil did you add to the fuel? I always add this to my fuel with no smoking problems but I do what the bottle directions indicate. It is 4 ounces of oil for 10 gallons of fuel. It sounds like you may have added to much. If that is the case, it will burn off. Good luck to you.

John R

Yes. I believe this is the cause and cure. I thought I had more gas in the tank, but obviously I didn't. I am going to drive it to the station and fill her up.

Also, Mystery Oil is not an oil. It is like sea foam as an additive.

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I've used Valvoline 10 w 40 for many years..........can't say it ever caused any problems.  

Also have run occasional Mystery Oil in both gas and oil.

 

Lately, I have smoking out the draft tube and oil filler tube.  I put straight 30 weight oil in on the last

change but haven't driven it much since then.  Maybe a ring problem.....I really don't know.  Will just

live with it for the while.  

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I will not even start my engine unless I plan on driving at least 25 miles. short runs will build up moisture and cause the downdraft tube to smoke, it is the water being steamed off. I use Valvoline 20/50 and do not use any additives. The oil stays clean for the 3,000 miles to the next change

Edited by james49ply
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I checked with my cousin who is a pilot and a certified aircraft mechanic. The following is his response to engine oil requirements.

 

The info below applies to flat aircraft

engines, like Lycoming and Continentals. Pratt and Whitney jet engines
use "Turbine Oil" and round engines use "Radial Engine Oil."
 
We use both straight weight and multi-viscosity, ash-less dispersant, aircraft
"grade" oil. Auto engine oil will ruin an airplane engine, but I am not sure
about the reverse.
 
In TX where we have hot summers, I always used Aeroshell W100 which
was SAE 50 (go figure) and in the winter, I used W80 or SAE 40. When
I went further north I would lower the viscosity accordingly. I tried
to use multi-viscosity oils a couple of times and my engines always ran hot.
 
The FAA would do a flip if they learned you were using unapproved oil
additives like Marvel Mystery Oil, but a lot of older mechanics swore by
the stuff. I used it in my Cessna 182 for ten years with no ill effects.
But did not use it in my Twin Comanche.
 
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