Intake/Exhaust Manifold R&R

[NiftyFifty]

Most likely its never been off in its life, typically engines were overhauled a lot more often back in the day, and also gaskets not being quite as good also failed often...but I'm guessing your truck might have lower miles, or just never needed work in that spot, so after 62 years its going to be a little tough, or even if its been 40 its got a lot of corrosion built over time.

All of mine came apart fine too, even the old 47 Fargo 228 that I kept some parts from came apart nicely, just the luck of the draw.

[55 Fargo]

Most likely its never been off in its life, typically engines were overhauled a lot more often back in the day, and also gaskets not being quite as good also failed often...but I'm guessing your truck might have lower miles, or just never needed work in that spot, so after 62 years its going to be a little tough, or even if its been 40 its got a lot of corrosion built over time.

All of mine came apart fine too, even the old 47 Fargo 228 that I kept some parts from came apart nicely, just the luck of the draw.

Yes she was a farm truck north of Gladstone Mb, hey I might need that trans we been talkin about

[55 Fargo]

The new manifolds, need to paint rest of engine and parts too. I am dropping the oil pan soon too...

[Dave72dt]

Will you be able to run without the vapor lock prevention devices now?

[NiftyFifty]

Yes she was a farm truck north of Gladstone Mb, hey I might need that trans we been talkin about

Sure, I'm still tripping over the parts...

[55 Fargo]

Sure, I'm still tripping over the parts...

Okay, lemme know when and how?

[55 Fargo]

Now that new manifold set is on, this engine runs better, and is quieter, the broken exhaust manifold was worse than I could tell, while it was on the truck.

2 things need attention though, the conical nut and special washer on the stud at the very rear of engine, needs to be installed, there is just a regular nut on there now, I have the conical nut/washer, it can go on.

The other item, the bi-metallic spring is very tight, does not seem to relax, so have to replace it, it will not allow counter weight to spin when engine is revved. I have it unhooked to allow heat riser to be in hot position at all times.

I do not know if it was damaged or if I damaged it while bead blasting the manifolds, it is not cracked.

I need to get another spring, from some source.

I did have some minor weeping out of 1 of the 2 long center studs, it would disappear as engine warms up, but dripped a tiny bit, when cold, seemed dry this morning...

[ggdad1951]

Bernbaums has the spring

[TodFitch]

Bernbaums has the spring

I believe that Antique Auto Parts Cellar makes the spring that Bernbaum's sells. . . 

[Jeff Balazs]

Now that new manifold set is on, this engine runs better, and is quieter, the broken exhaust manifold was worse than I could tell, while it was on the truck. 2 things need attention though, the conical nut and special washer on the stud at the very rear of engine, needs to be installed, there is just a regular nut on there now, I have the conical nut/washer, it can go on. The other item, the bi-metallic spring is very tight, does not seem to relax, so have to replace it, it will not allow counter weight to spin when engine is revved. I have it unhooked to allow heat riser to be in hot position at all times. I do not know if it was damaged or if I damaged it while bead blasting the manifolds, it is not cracked. I need to get another spring, from some source. I did have some minor weeping out of 1 of the 2 long center studs, it would disappear as engine warms up, but dripped a tiny bit, when cold, seemed dry this morning...

Fred;

Sounds like you had a real tussle with this. I don't recall breaking any but when I replaced all of the old ones I had some real struggles with 2 or 3 of them. Repeated applications of PB Blaster and heat was required!!!

 

I see you are having an issue with the bimetal spring. Mine seems too stiff as well. I rebuilt it from a kit....Roberts I think.....but it has always seemed stiff. It has been a long time since I have been around one of these but it seems to me that when they warmed up they let the counter weight droop on it's own. Mine moves when you step on it but at slow speeds or idle it seems to stay in the cold position. Please let us know what you end up doing here as I think some sort of fix is in order.

 

jeff

[55 Fargo]

Hi Jeff, yes this was a real bugger of a job. I did hire out, to a Man that is well versed in Old Mopars, and is fussy in his work.

The problem was this, on the long block engines, the 2 center studs, that are about 3 1/2 inches long are just about always bolts, so what do you do.

By the time you try and heat the head of that bolt, the surrounding cast iron sinks the heat.

So what was left was 1 broken stud, the 2 broken bolts, all broke off flush to block, not much option there. I do fault him on breaking the stud, he should have spent possibly a little time applying heat on it first, but he did not.

The counter weight and bi-metallic spring, spring ws tight, and did not relax when the engine got hot, it was tight enough that when revving the engine, the counter weight would not spin.

This at first caused me some concern, thought perhaps the metal damper was either rotten or not on the heat riser shaft. I confirmed this by pulling off the spring, and held onto the heat irser, revving engine same time, there was quite a force created by the exhaust to force the counter weight forward, so it is working fine, the spring is the culprit.

Last night I stretched the bimetallic spring a bit, and it wroked well, I may have done it a little too well though. I do not see this spring expanding with heat, so will finda another.

I would venture to guess if the bimetallic spring is tight, but allows counter weight to move when revving a cold engine, and then allows damper to open fully once the engine warms, all may be well. If the counter weight returns to the cold position once engine cools and spring contracts, all should be considered functioning and well.....

[Jeff Balazs]

Fred;

I don't suppose there is much you can do about those bolts......other than keep your fingers crossed.

 

Well my flapper will move under pressure from the exhaust.......but it does not drop down when warm. Sure wished I had just blanked the darn thing off when I had it all apart. Once more into the breach.......

 

Jeff

[55 Fargo]

Fred;

I don't suppose there is much you can do about those bolts......other than keep your fingers crossed.

 

Well my flapper will move under pressure from the exhaust.......but it does not drop down when warm. Sure wished I had just blanked the darn thing off when I had it all apart. Once more into the breach.......

 

Jeff

I actually bought 2 appropriate length studs, brass nut and flat washer, so there is no requirement for a special conical nut and washer, this is more sensible than using just another set of bolts in this case.

Yup the spring was so tight, the weight would not spin open the flapper even while revving, not a good scenario, I stretched the spring a bit, but that is most likely not the correct method of repair...but for now it'll do....