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Posted

 "i" what ? I passed out at 2:46 AM and never finished this post ?

 

Goodnight in the morning Tim,

 

Hank 

fell asleep on us he did!  lucky it wasn't:

 

loty8dsf piha -[8y['0yh8[ uihjkooooooooooooooooooh[[[[[[[[[[[[hji[h[aafdlkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk';';';hj 

Posted

Had the truck out today, went to the local filling station. Outside ambient temp, was around 82, very humid. The truck runs well, but at this temp, it appears gas gets good and hot in the carb. I had no troubles restarting with a 12 volt battery and post 1956 12 volt starter. The usual ensues, carb needs to clear, and takes a moment for this to occur, then all is well On the highway engines temps did creep up to 175-180 mark, am running a 160 t/stat. In cooler weather,temps below 65, stays at 165-170, even at 10 below. I would guess the restricted exhaust gas flow, would allow engine temps to climb a bit. Will these flatties engine temps rise, if a heat riser is stuck in wrong position, or does that only effect intake and carb base temps. I have read support for both cases.

Posted

Mine runs around 180 but I don't run a t-stat after I believe the old one caused my head gasket to blow... The ones from the jobbers need a hole drilled in them IMO to ensure your getting some flow on start. I'm installing a front electric fan just to be safe anyway

  • Like 1
Posted

Mine runs around 180 but I don't run a t-stat after I believe the old one caused my head gasket to blow... The ones from the jobbers need a hole drilled in them IMO to ensure your getting some flow on start. I'm installing a front electric fan just to be safe anyway

Yes, have drilled about a 1/16 hole in mine. I figure 170-180f is about a normal temp range in summerwith a 160 or 180 t/stat. Are you running Premium fuel in your part of Manitoba. I am , to avoid any ethanol, is it worth it though. I have never had issues with the regular fuels in the old flattie, have you? Do you ever have hard hot starts, with your flattie? I have a 6 blade fan, and if I ever need a rad, gonna look at the Auto City universal rad, for $199, can't go wrong..

Posted

 "i" what ? I passed out at 2:46 AM and never finished this post ?

 

Goodnight in the morning Tim,

 

Hank 

 

 

fell asleep on us he did!  lucky it wasn't:

 

loty8dsf piha -[8y['0yh8[ uihjkooooooooooooooooooh[[[[[[[[[[[[hji[h[aafdlkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk';';';hj 

 

 

He must have passed out while in the edit mode :mellow:

 

When I went in to edit my post.....I was at work and needed the computer I was on....and, well....accidently deleted all the wisdom I had just typed in.....frick.  :huh:

 

48Duh....

Posted

When I went in to edit my post.....I was at work and needed the computer I was on....and, well....accidently deleted all the wisdom I had just typed in.....frick.  :huh:

 

48Duh....

I did not know you were wise about Frick Screw Compressors. I have operated and maintained many such compressors in my working days.

 

 

post-16-0-00888100-1401273118_thumb.jpg

Posted

Have done undertaken this "job", yet, as i thought I would.

Hope to start on Monday.

I have been driving the truck a bit, but not overly far from home.

A ? for you more seasoned Gurus, should I be driving this truck, with a heat riser seized in the cold position? The carb gets a good and hot in this weather, could this do damage to any exhaust valves or any other part of the engine?

I have never been so reluctant making excuses to not start this job, as I do hate dealing with broken studs in an engine block, getting squeamish in my mature years.....

Posted

Near as I can tell, you've spent more time agonizing and worrying about replacing the manifold than it would have been to remove it and all the bolts, even if by chance they all would break.  Sometimes the hardest part is getting started. Do the best you can, be as careful as you can and deal with the results after.  You've got time right now to go out and remove a few bolts.  You don't have to wait until Monday.  If you break one, keep at it until the manifold is off.  Once you break the first one, you have to keep going forward.  You can't undo the broken one.   You may not break any, but you won't know until you put the wrench to it.

  • Like 1
Posted

Near as I can tell, you've spent more time agonizing and worrying about replacing the manifold than it would have been to remove it and all the bolts, even if by chance they all would break.  Sometimes the hardest part is getting started. Do the best you can, be as careful as you can and deal with the results after.  You've got time right now to go out and remove a few bolts.  You don't have to wait until Monday.  If you break one, keep at it until the manifold is off.  Once you break the first one, you have to keep going forward.  You can't undo the broken one.   You may not break any, but you won't know until you put the wrench to it.

No I agree Dave, worry wort I am. Kids soccer tourney all weekend, plan to start tomorrow or Monday, have to drain antifreeze first, then get at her...thanx for the post

Posted

Why do you have to drain the antifreeze? Or is that another project? I think the biggest issue you could face is boiling your gas and getting a bad vapour lock, best to leave the truck sit until its all fixed

Posted

Why do you have to drain the antifreeze? Or is that another project? I think the biggest issue you could face is boiling your gas and getting a bad vapour lock, best to leave the truck sit until its all fixed

Because the 2 long bolts go into the water jacket, as well as the studs right. So I do not want antifreeze all over, figured Id best drain it. Right or wrong?

Posted

I didn't recall that, but its been a few years and mine was out on during my rebuild, so no coolant to worry about. Good time to put some water wetter or other additive in the coolant.

Posted

I didn't recall that, but its been a few years and mine was out on during my rebuild, so no coolant to worry about. Good time to put some water wetter or other additive in the coolant.

Sorry don't need any water wetter, cooling is just fine, drove about 30 miles tonight, temp 170 all the way. Of course if you unthread a manifold stud or unbolt thos 2 long bolts, the coolant will come flowing out, they go into the water jacket............. PS run 50/50 antifreeze, water wetter does best in water, I really have no need for this stuff....

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

May the force be with you. :)

 

Jeff

 

May the Force be with you as well. My take on these trucks and I've said it before is (mosttimes) is to take as long as possible.

  • 1. Do your homework this could be looking thru the Truck Manual, Advice from Forum Members, search YouTube for your topic.
  • 2. Come up with a stratigic plan including a time line  and list the possible steps like PB Blaster...Applied Impact to break up rust crystals..etc.
  • 3. Execute the Plan (if all else fails hit it with a BFH)

Here's hoping for the best,

 

Hank  :)

 

 

Good Luck,

 

Hank.

Edited by HanksB3B
Posted

May the Force be with you as well. My take on these trucks and I've said it before is (mosttimes) is to take as long as possible.

  • 1. Do your homework this could be looking thru the Truck Manual, Advice from Forum Members, search YouTube for your topic.
  • 2. Come up with a stratigic plan including a time line  and list the possible steps like PB Blaster...Applied Impact to break up rust crystals..etc.
  • 3. Execute the Plan (if all else fails hit it with a BFH)

Here's hoping for the best,

 

Hank  :)

 

 

Good Luck,

 

Hank.

Very true, done this very job a few times, and the steps are not difficult. The difficulty is when you break studs in the engine block.

Most home shops are not equipped well to deal with this situation. As well, most are not that experienced in bolt extraction, oxy/acetylene torch, cobalt bits, etc.

This job is right up there with others that can be a real pain.....

Posted

Monday and Tuesday have come and gone and betting you put it off again!  Enough thinking about it- time to do!

Posted

Monday and Tuesday have come and gone and betting you put it off again!  Enough thinking about it- time to do!

Yup and nope, had to work these past few days, and for a few more days, timing is a bit off. I do have everything ready, stud nuts, sprayed with PB Blaster. After the weekend, truck is going down the road to well equipped shop, Me and another Mopar man, will do the job there. He has all tools and equipment to deal with any stud bolt breakage.

Posted

Monday and Tuesday have come and gone and betting you put it off again!  Enough thinking about it- time to do!

TODAYS ORDEAL

Here is the ending of this problem and the beginning of another. I brought truck over to a Guy I know who runs a small shop 5 miles from home, he is a mopar man and familiar with the beloved flathead 6.

Drop truck off, get the bicycle out of the truck and proceed to ride home, 1/2 way home, get call from guy working on manifolds, he broke my shifter, just like that. I get the rest of the way home, go back in Caravan, truck trans shifting into all gears but shifter spins right around and has no tension.

So work continues, 2 long bolts and 1 stud break, nothing he tries at first works to get them out, he drills all 3 out, ruining a few cobalt drill bits. 

Manifolds get installed, lifter covers get cleaned and new gaskets.

Carb and the rest are installed, truck will not run right, getting way too much gas. This is now 8 hours later, I go over to see what's going on, he pulls carb top, and sure enough we bot the see at same time, carb bowl jet is not in it's seat, but laying in the bottom of bowl near accelerator pump, slow speed circuit pump is wonky too. We address this, engine fires right up and runs pretty good. After paying him, drive home, with wonky shifter, but trans shifts well into all gears, truck has a lot more umph too.

Here is the best part, 1/2 way home run outta gas, now wasn't this fun.

Get Wifey to come with gas can, and away I go, all is well . Then 12 yo son, wants to ride bicycle 5 miles to pick my van at Guys place, we do this, I hauled scrap to the shredder today too, I am whooped....now you see Dave my 6th sense told me this job would be a bugger, Chris who did the job, said it was 1 of his most difficult in many years...,.

Posted

Well when things go wrong they just seem to keep on coming, but on the other hand once things start going well, it usually stays that way for a long time.

 

Remember "They don't make em like they used to". Eventually, you'll be alright.

 

Hank  :)

Posted

Hey Fred, glad the ordeal is over and your truck is running well. Hope the shifter problem is an easy fix. I have changed quite a few manifolds over the years on these flatheads and have only broken one stud and that was the last time. You must be breaking a few so the rest of us are safe. Thanks. :P

  • Like 1
Posted

Hey Fred, glad the ordeal is over and your truck is running well. Hope the shifter problem is an easy fix. I have changed quite a few manifolds over the years on these flatheads and have only broken one stud and that was the last time. You must be breaking a few so the rest of us are safe. Thanks. :P

Hi Rob, not sure why this was such a tough nut to crack, pardon the pun.

My 47 Chrysler was not bad, broke 1 of the 2 long bolts, the drilling out went south because of Me.

But this thing having 3 break off, WHY? What would cause this engine and manifold to have such seized in studs/bolts?

Posted

May have been a tough job but no bigger or worse than it would have been 6 months ago.  Now that it's done, the stress level should come down a bit.  Fix the shifter and then worry about what will break next.

  • Like 1

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