BobT-47P15 Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 Took the convert for it's first drive of a few miles a couple of evenings ago.....as the temp here was in the 80s. The most I've driven it since getting it back from repairs and sitting close to three years. It now has a new Airtex fuel pump and rebuilt carb plus new plugs, points, etc....and was running really good.....then we stopped for some ice cream.....and it didn't want to start again. So I called a friend who brought a can of gas in case my gauge was not correct and I had run out of gas.... since that's what it acted like. Poured a little gas into the carb --- it coughed a bit and finally started, but was running a bit rough. Got back home......looked at the glass bowl on the fuel pump.....there's some rusty looking stuff in there......so the tank has probably acquired some corrosion over time. Don't know if the gas cap was in place during repair work so some dirt could have drifted in as well. Think I will try to remove the float and siphon out gas thru the opening and see what comes out. That way, if I want to remove the tank, it will be lighter and easier to handle. I think there is a rubber plug in the bottom of the tank.....but don't think I want to remove it as it might be difficult to replace without ending up with a leak since the rubber is old. It would sure be nice if some company out there would reproduce our tanks.....or even build a copy upon request. I really don't care for the look of that boxy looking item made by Tanks, Inc and would like to find something resembling the original. I think there is either a Ford or Jeep tank in a catalog I got from O'Reilly Auto Supply that is 17 gallon capacity, but the float hole and filler neck are not in the exact right places. If some clever and talented welder person could re-locate those two items, it would be a real deal. I guess that's the purpose of these old cars -- to give us old guys something to do in all our spare time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobacuda Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 I was told that the new gas with alcohol in it attracts water, which causes the tank to rust when it is not full or sits for a period of time. My truck's tank had lots of corrosion and pinholes in the top of it thanks to corrosion. When RENU rebuilt my tank, they boiled it out, replaced the failing sheetmetal and put a sealer inside and out - guaranteed not to rust in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48ply1stcar Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 If you have debris in the filter you may also have it clogging the fuel pump. I had an electric fuel pump installed in 1968 and it was spliced into the gas line with rubber hoses. When the hoses started to disintegrate I had rubber pieces in the fuel pump and gas line. So, no matter what might be in the fuel or fuel line clean out the screen inside the fuel pump. Also, the plug in the bottom of my fuel tank has a square indent for removal with a 1/2 inch drive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 My tank on my 39 desoto at the rear and dead center bottom has a metal plug that you takeout to drain the tank Rich HArtung Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffsunzeri Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 Before going down the bunny trail of blame for the fuel system, eliminate any questions about the electrical system. When it refuses to start, pull a spark plug and visually check to make sure it is sparking. It only takes a minute or so, and can prevent unnecessary expense and headache. Condensers are life limited and many times we are given condensers that are incorrect for the application as replacements. A failing condenser can give all the symptoms of a plugged fuel filter. A failing condenser may be fine until it soaks up a bit of heat. They are one component that will work while cold, and fail due to heat. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lumpy Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 Those pesky condensers...I've come to the point where I almost just change the condenser before doing any trouble shooting. ken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
navyboy Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 is that stupid flex hose that goes from your hard line to the pump old, they are known to collapse with old age under pressure. Also pull the fuel sender out carefully not to damage it, then take a LED flashlight and shine it into the tank to take a look, if its slight corrosion its not something to freak about, but if you start seeing big chunks of flake metal like rolled sheets then it needs a tank replacement and are available, ebay has one for a 52 for 300$ and that may work on yours but you may have to see if they cross reference or if they have one for your particular year.----Does your car have a clear fuel filter to see if its full of gas at engine operating temps? I was constantly getting hardly any gas to the filter even with a good tank/lines with a new pumps as soon as this spring hit with warmer weather so I installed a 6v positive ground fuel pump from a early ford company and it brought my fuel pressure up just enough I have no fuel issues anymore, the pump is wired to a switch under my dash so I have complete control of it and puts out around 4psi. Paid like 60$ and a few hours of my time, one of my best investments for my car other than the 6v optima battery and 6v positive ground alternator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted May 8, 2014 Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 is that stupid flex hose that goes from your hard line to the pump old, they are known to collapse with old age under pressure. I don't believe the flex line will collapse under pressure. I do believe they will collapse under negative pressure when subjected to a slight vacuum created by the suction side of the pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD luxury liner Posted May 8, 2014 Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 I just used a product called Evapo rust, I got mine from McMaster-carr. amazing stuff & has instructions for fuel tanks. I used mine on engine block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobT-47P15 Posted May 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 Ahh.....interesting answers fellows....... At present, the line from fuel pump to carb is all metal and has no filter in it........no hose at all. There is some reddish rusty looking liquid in the fuel pump glass bowl, and I think some other flakes on the bottom of the bowl. I just looked as best I could with a drop light. Now, I need to remove the front wheel so I can get to it. Will remove bowl and clean screen. Guess I could cut the line and add an inline filter.......think I have one of the little glass ones somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobT-47P15 Posted May 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 (edited) On their website, is says Evapo Rust can also be used in your cooling system. Wonder if anyone has tried that...... If it cleans the system well, that would be a real deal http://www.evapo-rust.com/ Edited May 8, 2014 by BobT-47P15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
navyboy Posted May 9, 2014 Report Share Posted May 9, 2014 I would def put a fuel filter just before the carb, all that junk you may be seeing at the fuel pump is just a taste of what now sits in your bowl in the carb, I bet if you took the top of the carb off and looked down you would go oh **** lol. You should not have a filter before the mechanical pump it should be after as a mechanical "sucks" fuel from a tank on top of its gravity feed and a filter before a mechanical pump makes that pump not perform at its full potential and a dirty filter will just make a pump act like its going bad, I have two fuel filters, right between my electric 6v pump and gas tank near the rear axle that filters bigger particulates, then after my mechanical pump just before the carb to get the very small particulates, my electric pump pushes so I can run the twin filters with ease and you dont want that type of filter at the carb as you would near a tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobT-47P15 Posted May 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2014 Well, I found a small glass filter in my collection of "stuff" that maybe I can put after fuel pump, before carb. I discovered you can buy this style, plus replacement filters, at O"Reilly Auto Supply. I also bought a bit of gas hose for connecting. Thinking I might want to remove the tank and try cleaning it out, I bought a siphoning pump at Wal Mart and some EvapoRust at O'Reillys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveplym Posted May 11, 2014 Report Share Posted May 11, 2014 Don't forget to check your fuel line too. I fought that on my car, rusty fuel line that kept giving me problems. I have had an in-line filter on the frame rail between the fuel pump and tank. Have had it there for years without any problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fstfish66 Posted August 29, 2014 Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 todays gas eats the older type rubber fue lline ,,it neeeds t o be replaced with modern rubbber how ddi the evpo rust eater work ?? sounds interesting ...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.