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Posted

Took the convert for it's first drive of a few miles a couple of evenings ago.....as the temp here was

in the 80s.  The most I've driven it since getting it back from repairs and sitting close to three

years.  

 

It now has a new Airtex fuel pump and rebuilt carb plus new plugs, points, etc....and was running

really good.....then we stopped for some ice cream.....and it didn't want to start again.   So I called

a friend who

brought a can of gas in case my gauge was not correct and I had run out of gas.... since

that's what it acted like.  Poured a little gas into the carb --- it coughed a bit and finally

started, but was running a bit rough.  Got back home......looked at the glass bowl on the

fuel pump.....there's some rusty looking stuff in there......so the tank has probably acquired

some corrosion over time.  Don't know if the gas cap was in place during repair work so

some dirt could have drifted in as well.        

 

Think I will try to remove the float and siphon out gas thru the opening and see what comes

out.  That way, if I want to remove the tank, it will be lighter and easier to handle.  I think there

is a rubber plug in the bottom of the tank.....but don't think I want to remove it as it might be

difficult to replace without ending up with a leak since the rubber is old.  

 

It would sure be nice if some company out there would reproduce our tanks.....or even

build a copy upon request.  I really don't care for the look of that boxy looking item made

by Tanks, Inc and would like to find something resembling the original.  I think there is either

a Ford or Jeep tank in a catalog I got from O'Reilly Auto Supply that is 17 gallon capacity, but

the float hole and filler neck are not in the exact right places.  If some clever and talented

welder person could re-locate those two items, it would be a real deal.  

 

I guess that's the purpose of these old cars -- to give us old guys something to do in all

our spare time.   

 

 

 

Posted

I was told that the new gas with alcohol in it attracts water, which causes the tank to rust when it is not full or sits for a period of time.  My truck's tank had lots of corrosion and pinholes in the top of it thanks to corrosion.  When RENU rebuilt my tank, they boiled it out, replaced the failing sheetmetal and put a sealer inside and out - guaranteed not to rust in the future. 

Posted

If you have debris in the filter you may also have it clogging the fuel pump.  I had an electric fuel pump installed in 1968 and it was spliced into the gas line with rubber hoses.  When the hoses started to disintegrate I had rubber pieces in the fuel pump and gas line.

 

So, no matter what might be in the fuel or fuel line clean out the screen inside the fuel pump.

 

Also, the plug in the bottom of my fuel tank has a square indent for removal with a 1/2 inch drive

Posted

My tank on my 39 desoto at the rear and dead center bottom has a metal plug that you takeout to drain the tank

 

Rich HArtung

Posted

Before going down the bunny trail of blame for the fuel system, eliminate any questions about the electrical system. When it refuses to start, pull a spark plug and visually check to make sure it is sparking. It only takes a minute or so, and can prevent unnecessary expense and headache.

 

Condensers are life limited and many times we are given condensers that are incorrect for the application as replacements.

 

A failing condenser can give all the symptoms of a plugged fuel filter.

 

A failing condenser may be fine until it soaks up a bit of heat. They are one component that will work while cold, and fail due to heat.

  • Like 1
Posted

Those pesky condensers...I've come to the point where I almost just change the condenser before doing any trouble shooting.

 

ken.

Posted

is that stupid flex hose that goes from your hard line to the pump old, they are known to collapse with old age under pressure. Also pull the fuel sender out carefully not to damage it, then take a LED flashlight and shine it into the tank to take a look, if its slight corrosion its not something to freak about, but if you start seeing big chunks of flake metal like rolled sheets then it needs a tank replacement and are available, ebay has one for a 52 for 300$ and that may work on yours but you may have to see if they cross reference or if they have one for your particular year.----Does your car have a clear fuel filter to see if its full of gas at engine operating temps? I was constantly getting hardly any gas to the filter even with a good tank/lines with a new pumps as soon as this spring hit with warmer weather so I installed a 6v positive ground fuel pump from a early ford company and it brought my fuel pressure up just enough I have no fuel issues anymore, the pump is wired to a switch under my dash so I have complete control of it and puts out around 4psi. Paid like 60$ and a few hours of my time, one of my best investments for my car other than the 6v optima battery and 6v positive ground alternator.

Posted

is that stupid flex hose that goes from your hard line to the pump old, they are known to collapse with old age under pressure.

I don't believe the flex line will collapse under pressure. I do believe they will collapse under negative pressure when subjected to a slight vacuum created by the suction side of the pump. 

Posted

Ahh.....interesting answers fellows.......

 

At present, the line from fuel pump to carb is all metal and has no filter in it........no hose at all.

 

There is some reddish rusty looking liquid in the fuel pump glass bowl, and I think some other

flakes on the bottom of the bowl.   I just looked as best I could with a drop light.  Now, I need to

remove the front wheel so I can get to it.  Will remove bowl and clean screen.  

 

Guess I could cut the line and add an inline filter.......think I have one of the little glass ones somewhere.

Posted (edited)

On their website, is says Evapo Rust can also be used in your cooling system.    Wonder if anyone has tried

that......      If it cleans the system well, that would be a real deal

 

 

http://www.evapo-rust.com/

Edited by BobT-47P15
Posted

I would def put a fuel filter just before the carb, all that junk you may be seeing at the fuel pump is just a taste of what now sits in your bowl in the carb, I bet if you took the top of the carb off and looked down you would go oh **** lol. You should not have a filter before the mechanical pump it should be after as a mechanical "sucks" fuel from a tank on top of its gravity feed and a filter before a mechanical pump makes that pump not perform at its full potential and a dirty filter will just make a pump act like its going bad, I have two fuel filters, right between my electric 6v pump and gas tank near the rear axle that filters bigger particulates, then after my mechanical pump just before the carb to get the very small particulates, my electric pump pushes so I can run the twin filters with ease and you dont want that type of filter at the carb as you would near a tank.

Posted

Well, I found a small glass filter in my collection of "stuff" that maybe I can put after fuel pump, before carb.  I discovered

you can buy this style, plus replacement filters, at O"Reilly Auto Supply.  I also bought a bit of gas hose for connecting.

 

DSC09642.jpg

 

DSC09644.jpg

 

Thinking I might want to remove the tank and try cleaning it out, I bought a siphoning pump at 

Wal Mart and some EvapoRust at O'Reillys.

 

DSC09643.jpg

Posted

Don't forget to check your fuel line too.  I fought that on my car, rusty fuel line that kept giving me problems.

I have had an in-line filter on the frame rail between the fuel pump and tank.  Have had it there for years without any

problems. 

  • 3 months later...
Posted

todays  gas eats the  older  type  rubber  fue lline ,,it neeeds t o be  replaced with modern  rubbber   how ddi the  evpo  rust eater work ??  sounds interesting ...... 

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