Mattias78 Posted April 29, 2014 Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 Hi guys My 48 business coupe is very hard to get started when cold! U don't know if there are some special trick? But when i finally get it running it's very smooth! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted April 29, 2014 Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 The first thing I'd check is that the choke is working properly. A cold engine needs a richer fuel mixture to start and run well. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted April 29, 2014 Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 Most likely you have a fuel evaporation issue same as most of us do. Spin the engine with the starter in short 2-3 second bursts and wait 10 or so seconds between bursts so as to not overheat the starter motor. Choke full on and continually pump the accelerator pedal. As soon as you get gas flow the engine will sputter a bit and then start. This works every time for me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted April 29, 2014 Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 The owners manual for my car with hand choke has the following proceedure. Pull the coke cable to the full choke. Depress the accelerator pedal to the foor to set the carb to the fast idle position on the linkage. With the acc pedal 1/3 to 1/2 open position. Engage the starter. When the engine fires adjust the choke to attain as smooth idle as possible. The hand throttle can be used to enhance the idle speed if the high idle cam is too siow for the temp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattias78 Posted April 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 Thanks for quick replys! The thing is that if i get it started and let it get up to temprature and then shut it of and leave it for a few hours. It still is hard to get starded again! I don't think it should be an evaporation problem then! Right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Remove the top ofthe carb and see how much gas is in the floatbowl before attempting a restart after a good run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Low compression can cause hard starting. And a weak spark also. Easy to check both of those. And there is, of course, the infamous use of 12v battery cables on a 6v car causing really slow cranking which won't help starting either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattias78 Posted April 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Think i need to check comp and spark! The cabels i didn't know could be wrong! Have to check that as well! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sig Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Low compression can cause hard starting. And a weak spark also. Easy to check both of those. And there is, of course, the infamous use of 12v battery cables on a 6v car causing really slow cranking which won't help starting either. whats the deal with the cables then?..mine are original and massive..I´m guessing they need to be thicker than the 12v ones?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casper50 Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Correct Sig. 6 volt cables are thicker than the 12 volt ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 6v systems require current flow to work as engineered. Current flow is enhanced by thicker wires. One of the reasons for the switch to 12 V was to save money bu using thinner wires. yrpical wires in 6 V vehicles were 10 gauge for heavy loads like lights and heaters, 12 gauge for moderate loads, and 14 for light stuff like dash lights. 12 v enable manufacturers to use 14, 16, and lighter in newer cars. If henry saved a buck each in each car by putting exterior door locks on the pass side only, to save a couple of million a year on each car line, think how much was saved by switching to lighter gauge wireing through out the whole line of products. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Roberts Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Do you need to do a tune up ? Points , condensor , spark plugs , rotor , distributor cap . If it is all fairly new , check the point gap . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Another thing you can try is resetting the idle up a bit the next time you get it started. Try adjusting the linkage (idle stop) up some and use the idle mixture screw to dial it down if necessary. I have found that the idle settings have a direct effect of how well these engines start up. I believe it has to do with the velocity of the mixture being drawn past the throttle plate and how well it draws atomized fuel as opposed to droplets. I think the Carter B & B carbs are particularly sensitive to this condition. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captden29 Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 my car starts much easier now that I use premium no--ethanol gas. not available all over, but great if you can get it. capt den Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Hiebert Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 All excellent advise, but no one else asked, and seeing that your in Sweden, when you say "cold" - how cold? Does your engine turn over fast, or slow? Does it act like it wants to fire (stumble) and eventually fires up, or does it just spin for a while? The "cold" is relative, when it's 80 degrees out and your car hasn't run all night, then your car is 80-degrees "cold", when it's 40, your car is 40, etc. My car all but refuses to start right around freezing and below. A couple years ago I had it outside in the winter so I could paint another car. It was 10 degrees out and it would barely even turn over. Had to push it back into the garage. Cold affects 6v systems more that 12v, and it thickens the oil so the starter has to work harder to spin the engine, and with 6v having less cold cranking amps than 12, it will have a harder time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattias78 Posted April 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Hi! Just bought the so i'm still going havent checkt eveything out yet! The points, rotor looks new! So mayby have to check the point cap! Will have look at the idle adjustment as well! It's spring in Sweden now so the temp should not be an problem! Thanks for all the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_shel_ny Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Back to the choke. Does it have the Sisson electric choke? Is it connected electrically, (wire going to starter) and mechanically (rod to carb)? Is it working? Should fully close the choke plate for a cold start. Close less if the manifold has warmed some, Correct, probably not an evaporation problem after only a few hours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 I agree it most likely is not an evaporation issue after a short period of time. But could very well be a flooding issue due to latent engine heat expanding gas in the carburetor and landing the fuel in the intake manifold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattias78 Posted April 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 I'll get back to you about the choke! I'm away for a few days. But i'll check it when i get home! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lumpy Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Generally speaking, I've found that flatheads are a liitle hard to flood, as the fuel can't flow up into the combustion chambers, like it does (but flows down) on a OHV. Usually it's too little fuel....although Lumpy did seem to flood the other day, had to hold the throttle all the way open, and chokes off, then when it started it took a few seconds for her to clear her throat. Unusual for Lumpy, she usually starts right up, and once warm she'll start with a push of the button, no throttle action at all. On the other hand, my starter can be very slow turning sometimes, so it is good that she fires up easy, most of the time. A low idle speed will make an engine harder to start, generally speaking. k. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 You should try driving my 46 pickup. That thing floods easily. I've even managed to flood it after winter storage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_shel_ny Posted May 1, 2014 Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 (edited) One more thing to have a look at. The carb had no gas for many months. At least 3 as you waited for it to arrive by ship. The accelerator pump leather may have dried. They tend to shrink and not make good contact on the wall of the chamber. Gas does not seem to get them back tight to the cylinder after they dry. Your vehicle should have a stromberg carb. When you get back to it, before attempting to start the car move the throttle linkage to see if you are getting a good spurt of fuel into the carb throat. If not, fill the carb float chamber with gas by using a syringe, or such. You can do that via the tube shown in the pic. The tube goes directly to the float chamber. (procedure courtesy of Dale (Bob's son-in-law)) After you put some fuel in the carb, move the throttle linkage to see if you are getting a good spurt of fuel into the carb throat. If not, you need to take the top off the carb, remove the accelerator pump and work the leather on the accelerator pump out a bit so it will fit tight in the cylinder. It can be soaked in oil for a while first to make it soft enough to work. EDIT: this pic shows the dash pot. see post below for accelerator pump. Edited May 5, 2014 by shel_ny 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattias78 Posted May 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2014 hi! Here are some pics of the carb! The rod that is circled in red is very woobly moves just a little when trottle is applied! Havent a clue what it is! I tried to start the car today and i didn't fire! then i fiddled with the rod (circled in red) a bit, just mowed it up and down! Then i fired?!? I only have basic knowledge about these thinks so i´m sorry if testing your patience! /mattias Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted May 4, 2014 Report Share Posted May 4, 2014 That is the exterior part of the item Shel highlighted. It is the accelerator pump, its purpose is to enrich the air fuel mix when the throttle is opened for acceleration or climbing hills. It should give a visible squirt of gas into the carb as the throttle is opened. It works in conjuntion with the main jet and the power jet circuit to adjust air fuel ratio depending on demand. Typically, it fails due to the perishing of the leather bellows that is internal to the chamber. When it dries out it doesn,t seal to thewalls and pumps no gas or not enough. Spares should be avaiable but it is a good idea totake the old one or the carb number if it is to deteriorated to survive removal. If it is still there itmight respond to a good soaking in clean motor oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_shel_ny Posted May 5, 2014 Report Share Posted May 5, 2014 The rod you have circled will be wobbly, and moves very little. It is for the dash pot. Just provides a little squirt of gas to prevent stalling during deceleration with the fluid drive cars. The earlier pic that I posted was the dash pot rather than the accelerator pump. These pics are of the accelerator pump that I spoke of in the earlier post. Acc. pump on right. Dash pot on left. Sorry for the confusion. Moving the rod that you spoke of probably put that little squirt of gas into the carb throat so that it would fire up. You need to look down the carb throat and look for the squirt of fuel when you move the carb linkage that is attached to the gas pedal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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