Jump to content

Rear Brake Drum Removal Problem


Go to solution Solved by jeffr777,

Recommended Posts

Posted

All...I've been trying to remove the right rear brake drum on a 50 Special Deluxe.  I've been using the "three legged" puller to no avail.  The wheel spins freely, the minor adjusters have been loosened, the major adjuster nuts are removed and the bolts have been pushed in towards the drum, and we even loosened the spindle nut a 1/4 inch and took drove it around some corners to try and break it loose but it still will not come off.   Any suggestions out there would be greatly appreciated...thanks.

Posted

GTK mentioned on another thread about this same topic that using a 1/2" impact wrench with a large diameter hose on the puller's hex end will do the job. I only recently got a 1/2" impact wrench so I haven't tried it myself. And my drums have been off several times in the last 10 years so they come off fairly easily so I can't say it will work from personal experience but it is worth a try. 

 

Barring that, ditto using a bigger hammer.

Posted

Bigger hammer.

Saying bad things at the top of my voice and throwing things around always seem to help,too.

 

Or at least that is the excuse I use.

Posted

I built a 5-bolt puller and still have this issue.

 

but I also have an 8-lb hammer... :D

Posted

I had a problem that it would not come loose, I installed the puller loosely on the hub, ran the center screw in tight, then tightened the lugs a little at a time and the hub popped off with a bang.

Posted (edited)

As mentioned, BFH and don't be afraid to use it! Make sure you have the castle nut on the end of the axle  or the drum could injure you, damage property, or cause other havoc as it flies around. When it comes, it is often loud and violent.

Edited by RobertKB
Posted

Be sure each leg of the puller is tightened as evenly as possible to pull straight.

 

Hammer on arm of puller. No hammering on the end of axle.

 

http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/brakes.html

 

It sounds like you are using the correct puller. Avoid the type that has the jaws that grab the drum on the outside.

Posted

after doing all you have done, try moving the puller to different lug bolts and start hammering again.i use a 5#, but an 8# was mentioned.once you think you have hammered enough, hit it some more.like everyone else says, it will come off.you can leave the puller on overnite, with tension, and it may pop off while you sleep. they all come off. capt den

Posted

Hi Jeff:

 

I had the same problem with my 55 Studebaker (tapered axel and keyway).  Used the BF hammer on the 3 leg puller thing.  Nothing!  More hammer and a little WD40 at the axel/drum junction.  Also heat gun (like for painting...not a torch).    Left axel nut on loose (as suggested above to avoid shrapnel in the shop) & gave up for the night.  Next morning it was popped.  Did so on its own overnight with the constant pressure of the puller.   Tip for reinstallation:  Use a little chalk (blackboard type) rubbed on the surface of the axel where the drum goes.  Makes the next time go really easy.

 

Hopefully, by now, the x$#@@GRRR - thing is lose and you can go right to the chalk thing if you want.

 

Dick

Posted (edited)

I did this recently for the first time and I let the puller sit for three days on the first drum, hammering away each night to no avail. The fourth day I had someone else hammer and it came right off. More force required. Once I understood what "hammer harder" really looked like, I got the other drum off in less than a minute. I also put a crowbar through the legs of the puller down to the floor to keep it from spinnining as I hit it.

Edited by Tyson
Posted

This is the puller I use...has never failed yet.......lol..........unfortunately its a bit too big to put in the mail.......andyd

post-612-0-50959000-1398688050_thumb.jpg

post-612-0-71098900-1398688091_thumb.jpg

Posted

Some years ago I picked up a roughly 8" circle cut from 1/2" plate.

 

I drilled 5 on 4.5" plus a 1.125" center hole, then welded a 1" fine thread nut in the middle. Grade 8, plus the middle bolt was grade 8.

 

I used 5 grade 8 bolts the same threads as the lug bolts but about 6" long.

 

I find that pulling at all 5 bolts at once works better than my 3 leg puller.

 

At one point I actually warped the circle when I got the 5 bolts unevenly tightened, but even bent a tad It still works fine.

 

Cost me about 1/4 to build, compared to what I paid for the forged steel 3-leg "steel donut" puller..

Posted

I have both the 3 leg puller and one similar to what Ulu has made but mine was already a factory pullers.  Yes the puller that pulls against all 5 lug nut or lug bilt has a more even pull instead of pulling from three points which could  be an uneven pull.

 

If any one what a pictures of my plate  puller send me you emaiol and I will send you the picture.

 

Rich HArtung

desoto1939@aol.com

Posted

all this good advice and nothing from jeffr777 as to his result. would like to know what was successful for him.how about it jeffr? capt den

Posted

When that happened to me last December, I put a large socket on the end of the puller and stuck a ball bearing between the hollow in the tip of the spindle and the square hole in the socket. That kept the puller screw perfectly centered on the spindle and it slid right off. It was all very anticlimatic as I was expecting it to shoot off when it came loose but it barely made a peep.

Posted

Drop it and swap in a Ford 8.8. Modern rear end, modern brakes and never again hassle with it again.

The truth is that it isn't a hassle once you get it off for the first time in 30 or 40 years. You just lightly grease the axle and hub when you put it back together,and it's not a problem after that.

 

The problem isn't the design. It's the fact that it was probably put back together dry the last time the drums were pulled,and they were usually last pulled and put back together some time in the 1950's.

  • Like 1
Posted

The truth is that it isn't a hassle once you get it off for the first time in 30 or 40 years. You just lightly grease the axle and hub when you put it back together,and it's not a problem after that.

 

The problem isn't the design. It's the fact that it was probably put back together dry the last time the drums were pulled,and they were usually last pulled and put back together some time in the 1950's.

 

Totally agree.

Posted

Mine had stuck pretty tight after only about 10 years, but there was nary a drop of anything on that taper.

I definitely would not assemble dry.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use