Joe Flanagan Posted March 24, 2014 Report Posted March 24, 2014 I am getting ready to re-do the ball & trunnion joints on the drive shaft of my 49 Plymouth. I was planning on re-using the existing parts but replacing the rubber boots. However, it's starting to look like I'd be better off just buying two rebuild kits. First of all, below is a series of pics of a spring washer that goes under the little button at the end of the ball in the joint. The manual says its purpose is to absorb thrust in either direction (there are two of them) but since this washer is completely flat, does that mean it's worn out? Isn't a spring washer supposed to have a little jog in it to effect a spring action? As you can see in the picture, these are totally flat: Completely flat. See? Also, if you break the tabs on the cover to the U-joint, I assume it can't be used again though I thought I read on the forum at one point that you can in fact use them again. I'm also missing one of the two conical springs that go under the cover thought I could probably find it if I turned my entire garage upside down. Starting to look like I should just spring for new parts. Quote
desoto1939 Posted March 24, 2014 Report Posted March 24, 2014 Joe: I just checked on several of the Detroit kits that I have and yes you are correct the springs do have a slight bend to them. And also yes when the tabs are broken off you can not resue the metal cover. The tabs are what hold the cover on the body of the Detroit u joint. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Quote
Young Ed Posted March 24, 2014 Report Posted March 24, 2014 (edited) Joe unless you are dead set on stock I'd spring for a new driveshaft rather than spending the $ on the rebuild kits. Oh and if the kits don't have a spring I have an old driveshaft laying around that I could supply a spring from. Edited March 24, 2014 by Young Ed Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted March 25, 2014 Author Report Posted March 25, 2014 Wouldn't you have to have a new drive shaft custom made? I have no problem switching to modern U-joints but I thought I'd have to have an entire shaft fabricated and that it would be more expensive than rebuilding the joints. Quote
Young Ed Posted March 25, 2014 Report Posted March 25, 2014 Wouldn't you have to have a new drive shaft custom made? I have no problem switching to modern U-joints but I thought I'd have to have an entire shaft fabricated and that it would be more expensive than rebuilding the joints. Yes to a new driveshaft and have you priced those joints yet? If you need the housings its quite expensive. Then there's the matter of finding someone to properly install them. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted March 25, 2014 Report Posted March 25, 2014 Do up a new complete shaft with modern U-joints. Pressing in new pins into your old shaft is hit and miss. 1 Quote
TodFitch Posted March 25, 2014 Report Posted March 25, 2014 Yes to a new driveshaft and have you priced those joints yet? If you need the housings its quite expensive. Then there's the matter of finding someone to properly install them. If the housings are not worn, the kit for the inside is not very expensive and as long as you get a good boot on them to keep the dirt out they'll last a long time. The housings are very expensive and if they are worn you may find it cheaper to have an entire new driveshaft made up using currently manufactured U-joints. I don't think there is any value in trying to add current u-joints to the old shaft, you'll need to have a splined section to take up the change in length so there would not be much left of the original. Back in the late 70s it was cheaper for me to have a custom driveshaft made up so I did it. But I kept the original and eventually found reasonably priced parts (if you are patient you can find them still) and now have the original back on the car. It seems to be better balanced than the custom made one. Do up a new complete shaft with modern U-joints. Pressing in new pins into your old shaft is hit and miss. Pressing the pins is only hit or miss if you don't make up the bushing tool that sets the depth. If you do it yourself, get access to a lathe and make one. If you have a machine shop do the pressing let them know the factory tolerance and they should be able to figure out how to achieve it. Quote
Don Coatney Posted March 25, 2014 Report Posted March 25, 2014 Cost wise I paid something less than two hundred for a new driveshaft. Quote
Jim Yergin Posted March 25, 2014 Report Posted March 25, 2014 Joe, I had one built locally for my car. It cost $375. If you want, I can find the name of the shop that did it for me. Jim Yergin Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted March 25, 2014 Report Posted March 25, 2014 (edited) If the housings are not worn, the kit for the inside is not very expensive and as long as you get a good boot on them to keep the dirt out they'll last a long time. The housings are very expensive and if they are worn you may find it cheaper to have an entire new driveshaft made up using currently manufactured U-joints. I don't think there is any value in trying to add current u-joints to the old shaft, you'll need to have a splined section to take up the change in length so there would not be much left of the original. Back in the late 70s it was cheaper for me to have a custom driveshaft made up so I did it. But I kept the original and eventually found reasonably priced parts (if you are patient you can find them still) and now have the original back on the car. It seems to be better balanced than the custom made one. Pressing the pins is only hit or miss if you don't make up the bushing tool that sets the depth. If you do it yourself, get access to a lathe and make one. If you have a machine shop do the pressing let them know the factory tolerance and they should be able to figure out how to achieve it. I have the factory miller press tools for pressing the pins for different sized Ball and Trunnion U- Joints. The problem is that sometimes the pins gall when pressing them out and in even when lubed. Then the pin is not a tight enough press fit. Then you need a new shaft. Good driveshaft shops will know this too. Bob Edited March 25, 2014 by Dodgeb4ya Quote
desoto1939 Posted March 25, 2014 Report Posted March 25, 2014 dodgeb4ya: I have the same miller tool as the one that is on the far right that has the tool to push the pin out and to also set the pin. I am missing the small collar and rod that you are showing on the tool onthe left. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted March 26, 2014 Author Report Posted March 26, 2014 Thank you all for the responses. It looks to me like the housings are in good shape, as are the balls, pins, etc. I am missing one conical spring and have broken the tabs off one of the covers. I'm also in need of two spring washers. Bernbaum sells the rebuild kits for 86 bucks a piece. The rubber boots are 24 each, so I'd be looking at 220 or so. I believe I can get hold of the tool that's required. If I can find the replacement parts I need, all I'll need is the rubber boots. Has anyone managed to use modern cv boots? Saw a post about this in the archives. Quote
50desotocoupe Posted March 26, 2014 Report Posted March 26, 2014 Ironic. I was looking at a post on the HAMB and the guy mentioned this place. I looked at their website and they have a driveshaft for us. http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/Left-Column/Antique-Classics.html Here is the post from the HAMB than mentions it (post #100). http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=726413&page=5 Quote
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