Dave72dt Posted March 12, 2014 Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 Maybe I'm being optimistic but I didn't see anything under there that couldn't be rectified with a couple days of work. You have to remember that the definition of "driver" can vary drastically from person to person. As far as the cracks go, they could have been there before the axle flip. Get the box off, level up the frame, cut the poorly welded material out and much of it will go back in place with little effort. Once squared and leveled, properly box the c notches, and fab up a crossmember(s) to maintain it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HanksB3B Posted March 12, 2014 Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 (edited) Maybe I'm being optimistic but I didn't see anything under there that couldn't be rectified with a couple days of work. You have to remember that the definition of "driver" can vary drastically from person to person. As far as the cracks go, they could have been there before the axle flip. Get the box off, level up the frame, cut the poorly welded material out and much of it will go back in place with little effort. Once squared and leveled, properly box the c notches, and fab up a crossmember(s) to maintain it. That's fine if you bought a frame at a junk yard where no "Disclosure" issue was involved. Honestly I'd want the truck price reduced to cover the cost of a used frame in good shape and some measure of money for the dissasembly (that is assuming the intent was a frame up restore, cause that's what it's pointing to now...not something you could take a daily drive in. Anyway you look at it welcome and congratulations ! Hank Edited March 12, 2014 by HanksB3B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 12, 2014 Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 (edited) wanting and getting may well be two distinct and different objects....used cars are usually as is where is and buyer beware...assuming on one part is not a warranty on the part of the other...with that being said..... I have to agree with Dave to pull the bed, look at what is what..you never know how it was cobbled together..if setting uneven and not supported and leveled along the way..anything can be a miss and it could well be just cut away the cobbled welds and see if it will relax back to correct and then proper square and level prior to next set of cross members going in place...at least by doing this you will get the truth..twisted frame or out of kelter assembly...as for the rear springs being narrow and using a perch wide...use B-body lower plates and make and weld capture plates onto the lower unit..this will square your u-bolts and still capture the spring in a cradle that will never allow movement or twisting even in hard cornering..simple easy process...this is also assuming the angle of the pinion and width is also correct on the axle..if not start over using correct perches.. Edited March 13, 2014 by Plymouthy Adams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1952B3b23 Posted March 13, 2014 Report Share Posted March 13, 2014 I agree with the others that have said to first pull the bed off and really see what you have. It does look bad from the pictures but it could possibly be corrected and made right without needing an entire frame swap or welding on a good back half from a different truck. Thats very frustrating and id be pretty angry with the owner and definitely contact them and see what they say. Theyre likely to not really care to much and just be glad they have the money in there pocket. Good Luck. -Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brent B3B Posted March 13, 2014 Report Share Posted March 13, 2014 (edited) Bummer, wish i was closer, i have a frame for a 53 i am not going to use. It sounds like you are going to be into it at least $400. by the time you buy one, travel, etc. take it to a local community college and see if they will work on it for training? just occurred to me the vin number is on the frame, if you changed frames might have to change the data tag or file for a lost title? sorry if this was mentioned already and i missed it. Best of luck Edited March 13, 2014 by Brent B3B 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 13, 2014 Report Share Posted March 13, 2014 I still find it very hard to imagine a local small shop let alone a school shop that is going to assume the legal responsibilities that are involved in chassis work for a customer..much less coming behind another person's butcher job...maybe long ago..but not in today's business world.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HanksB3B Posted March 13, 2014 Report Share Posted March 13, 2014 (edited) Just bring the truck over to Autoshop 8th period. Geeze no big deal we've taken the class four times now already, I guess we should know what we're doin by now don't ya think ? it's a no brainer your truck only does 45..anyway. No Big Deal. Hank Edited March 13, 2014 by HanksB3B 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrampSteer Posted March 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2014 You guys are a riot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrampSteer Posted March 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 OK, here's my update and I'll try to address all the questions I've seen as I go. As it stands now I'm going with option 3 1/2 or there-abouts. The seller isn't going to take it back, and doesn't have the money any more, and it was that was when he got it, and ... Honestly, I don't want to give it back. I still get all school-boy when I see it. Proving malicious intent, and getting all lawyered up is going to cost more than fixing it. Plus I would have to store it during the litigation which could be months. Not my style anyway. I have decided that I'll just take my lumps and move on. In nine months of shopping I didn't learn enough before I pulled the trigger on a deal. Lesson learned, end of that chapter. Today, all the "just in case" money has to be funnelled into making it runnable. The remaining cash has to be for what is necessary to run safely, and the other things I wanted will have to wait. Then I'll drive for some months and I'll reset to decide where it needs to go from there. I calculate I will have $8 left of my original budget. We cannot do anything without the frame attended to so it's going to be a cut and splice from a donor frame - from somewhere in the midsection back. There's a couple of factory frame holes that will help with alignment and I have the original measurements of what it should be. The frame shop can guarantee it won't crab when running. The VIN number is near the front of the frame so this method will insure I am not screwing up my title. Well ... according to the book it is. The rear end is hacked with welds, the right drum/hub set broken needing replacement, the dual brake cylinders need replacement, and I don't even know if the pinion angle is right. Considering how poorly this was done, I doubt they knew what a pinion was much less try to set it properly. Keeping it is a viable option only because parts expense are limited to the new right drum/hub and maybe re-welding perches. Optionally I could move forward and find a Jeep Grand Cherokee (Pre 99) with drums complete, and replace it wholesale with new perches and u-bolts. Probably a 3:55 if I get a choice. I'd still have cylinder and shoe work done but I'll end up with something I can work with from a maintenance standpoint down the road. Plus these are suppose to be a 5x4.5 bolt pattern so there is no new investment in wheels and tires. There is the added expense of the part, plus the cost of fabbing up a new drive-shaft (most likely) but now I've touched the back end once and I won't have to go back to it later. Of course, I don't have the best track record at buying car stuff on the internet . Undecided here yet. More than likely it will depend on what the frame fixing costs and we can see how much is left in the kitty. Front end looks good although they let some of the zerks get pretty dry. Looks like they greased the ones that were easy to reach. We are fully stock with the exception of a leaf spring taken out to lower the front. New bushings and motor mounts will go on the long-term list. The parking brake is in pieces in a box in the cab so that's another "must have" on the safety list. Lastly, I've got a guy that can custom make some three point safety belt harnesses and we'll bolt them into an appropriate position. Heater needs to get put back in but its Southern California so I'm not in a hurry here. Engine is running well, no smoke or drips or lower-end noises. Electrical gauges all working (well, maybe not the gas tank sending unit - that or its really empty) and the battery is charging while at idle so generator and relays seem intact. That's a start. What I am not doing now is converting to a dual master cylinder system, adding that nice black interior set from Bob's (and a firewall pad), replacing the gas gauge sending unit, rebuilding/replacing the steering box, putting on a clear-coat to protect the paint, carpet, flowing new wiring throughout, ... Honestly, the whole reason for getting the truck was a way for me to deal with my Dad's passing. I consider this truck the conversation and adventure we didn't get to really have. It has been all that, so I'm not even mad. I can hear my Dad chastising me! But that's OK too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles Furman Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 One more example of why this forum is so valuable. What a great group. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrampSteer Posted March 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 One more example of why this forum is so valuable. What a great group. So true. Sure couldn't do this on my own! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 I look forward to your journey! Help us along w/ lots of pictures! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Sounds like a good plan. It sounds like you are kind of on the fence about swapping rear ends right now. It sounds like you'll be doing most of the same work. You will not need a custom drive shaft and if you are redoing the pinion angle anyway they can do that to the new one for the same cost. Get some tools and hit the upull yards and/or start stalking craigslist looking for one. I would think you could find one around $100. All the other stuff you mentioned having to wait will be find you can do those one at a time as $ allows. The only other one I might try to push forward faster is the sending unit if they end up pulling the gas tank to do the frame work. It would be much easier to do it then! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Hey Mike; I totally get where you are at with all this. Kind of reminds me of where I was when I discovered that my "great buy" had a bent frame. I think you will find joining and getting involved with this little community the best move you have made. The main thing is to have fun with it. It does take some some soul searching at times....but it is all good. It's funny ....I lost my Dad a few years back and I know he has been with me on this journey the whole time. I am just down the road from you if you ever need moral support or want to chat about your project. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Thornton Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 If you do jeep rear axel you get new emergency brake on rear axel. good luck wish you were near me so I could help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfarer Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Don't forget that the Exploder axle is also a very good unit and has the same correct bolt pattern. Between the two axles you will have plenty of choices for brakes and ratios. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrampSteer Posted March 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 (edited) If you do jeep rear axel you get new emergency brake on rear axel. good luck wish you were near me so I could help. Wish everyone were closer. Trying to figure out how to get something as bulky as a frame down here economically is getting frustrating at best. Edited March 22, 2014 by TrampSteer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B1B Keven Posted March 22, 2014 Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 Rent a car trailer and come to the BBQ. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrampSteer Posted April 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 I have an acquaintance near me who has several B series trucks and parts there of. If you wish I'll ask what he has, maybe we can cut out a good frame end and you can replace the bad section. Maybe we can even keep the springs so all you have to do is remove the bed (six bolts) and the axle (12 bolts) and you would have an easy swap. MacArthur cut trucks in half so he could load them on airplanes fly them to the next island, weld them back and etc., as he fought his way back to the Phillipines and on to Japan. Hey Paul - let's hook up. I'd send you an PM but the system says it cannot send to you. Maybe its a full mailbox or something. For everyone else - Took the bed off today. Apparently there is a hole in the gastank (top) so guess what else is on my list now? Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted April 10, 2014 Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 I removed some posts in my PM so it is now available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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