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Posted

wrapping the wiring helps to keep it clean & in place...the old cotton-braided insulation was prone to catching fire if soaked with oil or gas and got too hot for whatever reason, whereas the newer rubberized insulation did not have this much of a problem...that's why when the technology advanced, wiring was sleeved in asphaltic loom, then eventually poked inside convoluted plastic loom, cuz it was cheaper :cool:

Posted (edited)

To paint, or not to paint, that is the question......whether tis nobler in the mind to suffer the slings and arrows of outrageous patina haters, or to link arms with a sea of decorative and protective coating pushers, to join and please them?

This gave me a good laugh...Paul, the finish on your truck is a huge part of the story and I'd vote to preserve that look at least for now.If you change your mind at a later date so be it - to quote Jeff, "nothing you've done is irreversible nor will prevent future restoration".I appreciate the amount of work you're doing to get "Phoenix" roadworthy: mho  :)

Edited by Ralph D25cpe
Posted (edited)

PP makes some people totally frustrated.. others laughing..others wondering can't we all get along and best of all Paul having the best laugh!!!!

And he will have more fun doing what he does best...enjoying working on his old truck with not much concern  as to what others think should be done with it!!!

 

Go Paul Go......!!!!!!!!!! :lol:  :lol:  :lol:

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
  • Like 3
Posted (edited)

oh there is always something going on here...but honestly after 8 years of membership one would think some of the questions have long been covered in his journey to this salvage of a burnt out truck

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
Posted

This on going Phoenix story is wanting me more than ever to meet the man who knows how to just enjoy what he's doing regardless of what others say.

Though I do think he listens as to what others suggest!

 I think PP and "Wise Way Tu" are one of the same.

Bob

Posted (edited)

Maybe I would do things differently if I had two good ears, schucks if I had ONE good ear. So I just work with what little I have, use a bit of anogesic [sic] balm, sometimes some A&D ointment, aspirin, eye drops, and pepto. What is slowing me down is working in the dark, too afraid to turn on the lights, let alone the heater.

Edited by pflaming
Posted

its the ghost of garage cat past....you need to burn a bit of sulfur...get some good juju going..I can send you the number for my Wadmalaw Island high priestess..she has worked some great things in my life..especially to those that have PO'ed me to no end...

Posted

Maybe I would do things differently if I had two good ears, schucks if I had ONE good ear. So I just work with what little I have, use a bit of anogesic [sic] balm, sometimes some A&D ointment, aspirin, eye drops, and pepto. What is slowing me down is working in the dark, too afraid to turn on the lights, let alone the heater.

Ever try hootch, aka moonshine, aka white lightening, you be hearing and seein things then.....

Posted (edited)

Wiring test;

Engine:' Lights Accessories

batt to amp Amp to back of headlight switch Ignition to wiper motor

Amp to ign Switch to head lighs direct Ignition to radio

Ignition to coil Switch to dimmer to head lights Ignition to fuel gauge to tank sender

coil to dist Switch to park and tail

dist to plugs Switch to panel lights

1. things one needs when the engine is not running go from the Amp The - side of the amp is always hot

2. All lighrts from the light switch

3. All accessories from the ig.

So now I can trouble shoot my new harness a system at a time. If all is good to the coil, I can driver

If all is good to the lights, I can drive at night

If all is good to the accessories, then these things will not be on to accidentally run down the battery if the Ig is off

This may not be fool proof but it helps me better understand that a harness is actually harnesses within the total harness. In my B3B there three:engine, lighting and accessories . This is for my B3B. Other things are added in the later vehicles.

This may not appeal to some of the experienced, but then I think there are more learners like me than extensively experienced or trained like others. SO. . . take what applies to you and if you please ignore my learning curve.

I have this in columns but it changes when I submit it. The columns are Engine, Lights, accessories. So you can make the columns .

Edited by pflaming
Posted
luck
noun
noun: luck
  1. 1.
    success or failure apparently brought by chance rather than through one's own actions.
     
     

 

If you won the lottery or any game of chance luck might come into play. But what does luck have to do with correctly doing a wiring or any other job? Perhaps someone who believes in superstitions may wish you success but I don't think luck has anything to do with it. 

Posted (edited)

LUCK! as defined above is of course 'chance' but as used commonly has a larger meaning. Yet electrical and mechanical are science vs art. My past has been in the "arts genre", the world of imagination, abstraction, a 'what if' or ' I wonder . . ." Don is correct, the world of science, mechanical, electrical is an exacting world. If my wiring is done correctly, no testing is required.

I am enjoying this new discipline. I enjoy the feeling of accomplishment, for example when that engine starts or the lights go on.

So, follow my leaning curve, correct it as required, learn with me, or ignore. All the preceding meet my approval.

However, surface treatments are art no science. Sorry about that but that is how is in my shop. Now on that topic, Tim would likely stay "So true, and what happens in your shop should STAY in YOUR shop!"

Edited by pflaming
  • Like 1
Posted

LUCK! as defined above is of course 'chance' but as used commonly has a larger meaning. Yet electrical and mechanical are science vs art. My past has been in the "arts genre", the world of imagination, abstraction, a 'what if' or ' I wonder . . ." Don is correct, the world of science, mechanical, electrical is an exacting world. If my wiring is done correctly, no testing is required.

I am enjoying this new discipline. I enjoy the feeling of accomplishment, for example when that engine starts or the lights go on.

So, follow my leaning curve, correct it as required, learn with me, or ignore. All the preceding meet my approval.

However, surface treatments are art no science. Sorry about that but that is how is in my shop. Now on that topic, Tim would likely stay "So true, and what happens in your shop should STAY in YOUR shop!"

Good Luck, in a job well undertaken. Carl Jungs "Synchronicity" luck or exact science. Either way, take your time and do a thorough and correct job....

Posted

surface treatments are art no science. Sorry about that but that is how is in my shop. Now on that topic, Tim would likely stay "So true, and what happens in your shop should STAY in YOUR shop!"

surface treatments are SCIENCE,  choice of surface treatment- art

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

got to consider the very source at all times...as is stated many times here..it is all a learning process...some just have not quite progressed to X state yet...me...I got no dog in that fight....if folks are content with a progressive rust and decay who am I go get in their way?  but I still hope that by pointing out a few facts, lights may yet "come on" and am not overly concerned about one person's view or perception being changed..at least another reading these lines can consider what is best when the facts are correctly stated...

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Sometimes I think I'm jinxed. I have two tail lights one above the other on the truck. I had them working so I went to the dash to clean up some items. The tail light mounts were Jerry rigged because a machinist friend was making me a nice pair with his CNC mill. I got the new mounts put them on then returned to the cab , then the bottom lights worked, somewhat but not the top, so I concluded the switches were 'damaged' and not reliable so new switches.

Two days of off and on attempts then I suddenly realized the new mounts were made out of aluminum. I guess aluminum will carry a small amount of current but not much.

Tail lights now have a direct wire to ground. FRUSTRATING!

Edited by pflaming
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Proper grounds (clean metal to metal and star washers) and the addition of an actual ground wire can do wonders on a single wire/ground system.

 

Fire it up ! (oh Paul, maybe you shouldn't take that litterally)

 

Hank :)  

Edited by HanksB3B
Posted

Sometimes I think I'm jinxed. I have two tail lights one above the other on the truck. I had them working so I went to the dash to clean up some items. The tail light mounts were Jerry rigged because a machinist friend was making me a nice pair with his CNC mill. I got the new mounts put them on then returned to the cab , then the bottom lights worked, somewhat but not the top, so I concluded the switches were 'damaged' and not reliable so new switches.

Two days of off and on attempts then I suddenly realized the new mounts were made out of aluminum. I guess aluminum will carry a small amount of current but not much.

Tail lights now have a direct wire to ground. FRUSTRATING!

 

Aluminum conducts electricity better than steel. It was probably the interface between the light bracket and bed, and/or the bed to frame/positive battery terminal that was hindering the path.

 

But a tail light ground wire to the frame is a good idea anyway. Corrosion will always be a problem on those exposed tail lights. On my to-do list here.

Posted (edited)

Bench seat question. Would it be legal to put four seat belts in my truck for two adults and two grand kids? Is the legal issue belts or numbers, or both?

Edited by pflaming
Posted

Bench seat question. Would it be legal to put four seat belts in my truck for two adults and two grand kids? Is the legal issue belts or numbers, or both?

California Motor Vehicle code is available online. Under equipment you can find the seat belt requirements: http://www.leginfo.ca.gov/cgi-bin/displaycode?section=veh&group=27001-28000&file=27302-27317

Posted

good question to ask... Some states require inspection of seatbelts that will be used if retrofitted in a vehicle no so designed for belts by the manufacturer.  While the laws are written they are often vague in the design and proposed fit of belts.  A visit to the local DMV for clarification would be your best bet..get a print out of the law and any interpretation in writing.  Each state is different..and seems only to be really concerned for children as occupants and not adults other than the driver that is..you must also remember even given it is legal that the very metal reinforcement /floor design be such that it can stand the pull of the combined occupants inertia weight when/if sharing mounting bolts.  otherwise they will not be effective.

 

Time to fix the station wagon for the ole milk and cookie runs.

Posted

I have a piece of flat iron under the floor, some use large thick washers. My question concerns numbers, only three or can I go four? Will have to look up the code Todd noted. I clicked on what he has in his post, but I can't see the "equipment" section.

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