pflaming Posted February 16, 2014 Author Report Posted February 16, 2014 Who is that guy in the photo Jimmy Stewart ? That guy is your's truly and my wife a few decades past. ". . . unless I am much mistaken quite a lot of that flat black you are seeing now may just be soot from the fire." I bought a half dozen such pads, most maroon, some green so we're thinking alike. This afternoon, I will put on a good pair of gloves and remove all glass and rubber. Then I will 'sweep' off/out all loose debris. Monday I will CLEAN it , inside, and out, under carriage, and engine then coat all new fire rust areas with phosphoric acid. Then garage it. That will 'preserve' it for a new patina or a new paint job. I must then focus on cleaning up the garage. I want to get rid of that burned house smell asap. While waiting for the insurance $$ to arrive, I will address the truck. Question: the hood hinges are 'tight'. I don't want to put oil on the surface yet, so what do I do with them? Door hinges as well. Quote
gramps1951 Posted February 16, 2014 Report Posted February 16, 2014 in regards to the tight hinges if no lube is wanted how about just moveing them back and forth to get them loose going slow at first if that dosnt work I would take them apart and wire wheel all the parts. is the reason for not wanting to use a lube so your paint will not fish eye? neil Quote
Scruffy49 Posted February 16, 2014 Report Posted February 16, 2014 Plain old soapy water. It'll flush the crud out and the soap leaves a removable "lube" behind temporarily. If you actually want to go with the "incinerated look", John Deere Blitz Black paint. It can lay out smooth and even, or play with th gun while spraying to get the "charred" effect. Source doesn't matter, you can get it in Krylon, Rustoleum (rattle cans, quart cans, gallon pails), PPG good lines, etc. I'm going to be using a different seat set in my B1B, I may have a set of pearlescent navy blue vinyl bench seat covers around here still. If you want them and I can find them, they're yours. They aren't perfect, they were made in the late 50s or early 60s, but they were very servicable the last time I checked them. Quote
JerseyHarold Posted February 16, 2014 Report Posted February 16, 2014 "Question: the hood hinges are 'tight'. I don't want to put oil on the surface yet, so what do I do with them? Door hinges as well." Try spraying with brake cleaner to flush out any crud that's binding the hinge. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 16, 2014 Report Posted February 16, 2014 oil will be a lot more friendly to them now at this point that anything else..you will be washing the car..any prep to paint will require plenty of applied solvent prior to paint applied..there is nothing the oil is going to hurt..it can only do you good...weigh the odds on a bit of oil now followed by soap and water wash or rusted pins and damaged/fatigued metal with the gained resistance while opening closing... Quote
ChrisRice Posted February 17, 2014 Report Posted February 17, 2014 (edited) Paul, I am devastated for you upon seeing this. Stay strong in all of this. Good luck rebuilding! A card will be in the mail soon. Edited February 17, 2014 by ChrisRice Quote
pflaming Posted February 17, 2014 Author Report Posted February 17, 2014 (edited) I gave the truck a bit of a wash this afternoon with a garden hose. Tomorrow It will get all glass, and wire removed, and a thorough pressurized steam cleaning. Then rubbed down with phosphoric acid and stored. I am deep into cleaning up the garage. I want that out of the way by end of the week to get the stench out of the neighborhood. So here is an update, this is the 'good side'. Edited February 17, 2014 by pflaming Quote
HanksB3B Posted February 17, 2014 Report Posted February 17, 2014 (edited) Get rid of that glass ! I just hate how it looks. Aside from that the truck is looking better. Hank P.S. That fender mounted spare gas tank is empty right? Edited February 17, 2014 by HanksB3B 1 Quote
pflaming Posted February 17, 2014 Author Report Posted February 17, 2014 My steam cleaner source was on holiday today so . . . tomorrow. This picture fascinates me. I'm going to move it around and take pictures, maybe use it to show my progress in cleaning. After this event, I have an entirely new concept on cleanliness, organization, and hoarding. My new shop will be DIFFERENT, in layout and in management. Question: Which rectangle would make a better shop. The current 36' X 18' or a 24' X 24'? 1 Quote
Todd B Posted February 17, 2014 Report Posted February 17, 2014 My recommendation as a builder is that 18' will only be a one vehichle shop. At least with 24 x 24 you are able to have 2 projects at the same time. From experience, I would build it 60' x 80' with the planning ahead for an addition in a few years. Quote
pflaming Posted February 18, 2014 Author Report Posted February 18, 2014 Thanks Todd, but remember, I'm no spring chicken and most guys my age have their wives DRIVE! So a two stall shop is ok with me. Quote
Young Ed Posted February 18, 2014 Report Posted February 18, 2014 My steam cleaner source was on holiday today so . . . tomorrow. This picture fascinates me. I'm going to move it around and take pictures, maybe use it to show my progress in cleaning. After this event, I have an entirely new concept on cleanliness, organization, and hoarding. My new shop will be DIFFERENT, in layout and in management. Question: Which rectangle would make a better shop. The current 36' X 18' or a 24' X 24'? I'd say 36x18 as 24x24 is a square Quote
Dave72dt Posted February 18, 2014 Report Posted February 18, 2014 It really depends on how you lay them out. Either can work. My garage is 24 x 24 and is OK for a garage. For a shop, way undersized. Shelving and workbenches eat up space in a hurry. You need elbow room for projects to work safely and efficiently. Your pickup is about 16 ft long which gives you about 4 ft walk around minus benches, tool boxes, shelves so it's already tight. The suburban and convertible are longer. I'd want at least a 28 x 28 if going square, 40 x 20 rectangle minimum Quote
JerseyHarold Posted February 18, 2014 Report Posted February 18, 2014 My extra garage is 24x24, with two 9-foot-wide garage doors. I have a workbench and storage along one side, and it doesn't leave much room to work. A single, centered 10-foot-wide door would give enough elbow room to get things done, but you'd only be able to fit one vehicle at a time. Quote
Don Coatney Posted February 18, 2014 Report Posted February 18, 2014 And while you are second guessing everyone on size and shape I suggest you start thinking about lighting spaced so all areas have equal lighting, windows. doors, plumbing (sure be nice to have a sink and at minimum a urinal), electrical (need twenty amp receptacles spaced 6 feet apart and located 4 feet off the ground on all walls and every other one on a separate circuit) and at minimum two 220V receptacles, compressed air piped the full circumference with a drop every 8 feet placed four feet off the floor, and creature comforts such as the swamp cooler you had on the trashed garage. 1 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 18, 2014 Report Posted February 18, 2014 (edited) years ago I built my first shop..started out 24 x 30...flash forward a few years I added another 12 x 30 on the left side and did so by extending the peak to match the center of the new width..that gave me tons of lay down area in the overhead...that lasted for a spell and then I added an 8 foot bay again on the left side and put in a few sky lights (they were free and NIB)..the new 8 foot bay stored my compressor out of the work area, my motorcyles and a few lawn implement..the 12 x 30 became a certified paint booth and the original 24 x 30 was still the area the meat of the work was accomplished....had windows, sky lights with windows also in the overhead storage area..windows later got protective guards installed. Sold that place when I had to transfer cicil service..built this new shop adjoined to the existing house of 1908 vintage...100 feet deep garage...no windows..no skylights but nicely insulated and paneled, heated if I care to build a fire..brick hearth and another certified flow booth, no pull down stair case but an actual set of steps to the loft.....I will never have a window in a shop again..but that is just me... so PP build this thing as you need on the slab that you have so as not to p-o the city officials... Edited February 18, 2014 by Plymouthy Adams Quote
DJ194950 Posted February 18, 2014 Report Posted February 18, 2014 My .02 As big as you have money for and the city build permits will not be a major hassle. My friend helped a previous co-worker erected a 40 X100 steel shop, then that guy helped my friend errect a 40 x 60' (16' high side walls) building on his country property. After moving his tools, projects in as getting started on one project, I said to me he wished he had built at least 40 x 100' also. Planning where to add sheds, overhangs buildings to make up his storages, He also already had a 2-1/2 car garage. He's retired, 2 yrs. and 64+ years old, too young to quit- he's just getting stated on the things he wanted to do for years. So! ?? What do you really need? At a minimum to do what you want. Not time to slow down if you can. TOTTALLY respect you will and enthusium! Best, Doug Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 18, 2014 Report Posted February 18, 2014 well..no matter how big..you can always use more space...would be nice to add onto the barn yet again...lol so if you are limited to size..at least make it nice Quote
Oldguy48 Posted February 18, 2014 Report Posted February 18, 2014 Paul, As already suggested, build as big as you possibly can. And after it's built, you'll wish you could have built bigger. It's amazing how fast a garage can fill up with "stuff". Best of luck to you with raising the "Phoenix" out of the ashes. I'm sure she'll come back better than ever. Wayne Quote
TodFitch Posted February 18, 2014 Report Posted February 18, 2014 I'd say 36x18 as 24x24 is a square Isn't a square a special case (subset) of rectangle? Seems like I'd be able to better organize a 24x24 space than a 36x18 so that is what I'd recommend. But read DonC's post! If you are starting with a clean slate then you can plan for where you'd like work benches, power, lighting, compressed air, etc. Sketch them out and see which shape will work for you. For myself, I'd add to Don's list a high enough ceiling so that I could have a lift. Quote
Brent B3B Posted February 18, 2014 Report Posted February 18, 2014 Paul, sorry this happened to you! It sure has made me more aware of my own practices. Wish I was closer to help you out. Brent Quote
HanksB3B Posted February 18, 2014 Report Posted February 18, 2014 Best Wishes for a Speedy Recovery (darn nice truck whoever it belongs to) Hank 1 Quote
Young Ed Posted February 18, 2014 Report Posted February 18, 2014 Isn't a square a special case (subset) of rectangle? Seems like I'd be able to better organize a 24x24 space than a 36x18 so that is what I'd recommend. But read DonC's post! If you are starting with a clean slate then you can plan for where you'd like work benches, power, lighting, compressed air, etc. Sketch them out and see which shape will work for you. For myself, I'd add to Don's list a high enough ceiling so that I could have a lift. Yes Tod I believe all squares are rectangles but not all rectangles are square. Just giving Paul a little rib... Quote
pflaming Posted February 18, 2014 Author Report Posted February 18, 2014 IF they force me to relocate, I will ask if I can go 10' from the property line and minimum feet from the alley. A 24' wide building then would extend into the back yard by 15' more that the current building. A 24' wide gives me a two car stall or a very wide shop for one vehicle and 10' walls would be incredible. Now with two or four sky lights in the roof. . . wow! The 10' to the property line is on the NORTH side of the building, the shady side. I will keep the old concrete and now that space is for my 2nd car or two end to end "to be built'" cars, and with the correct type of lift FOUR cars!!! Since out of sight of the house, I can slip em home easier. . . Gonna figre this out yet. Thanks for the dimension ideas, very helpful. Quote
Todd B Posted February 19, 2014 Report Posted February 19, 2014 Any item involved in a fire will smell whenever you get a few damp, humid days. And it will never go away. Make sure you properly wash the concrete and then seal it after completely dry. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.