Redmond49 Posted February 4, 2014 Report Posted February 4, 2014 I've successfully gotten the brake assemblies off the front and rear of the car. The thin metal seals (shims?) on the rear passenger side are all rusty and the bearing appears to have no grease on it and even some traces of rust. I think the shims were at one time put back without the outer oil seal. I have never done this before, so I'm looking to see if I am understanding the service manual correctly. To change the bearing, I have to: 1. Get a tool for pulling axles, attach it, and pull the axle out. 2. Once I have the axle pulled, I use another tool for pulling bearings off axles to pull it off. 3. Then I need another tool to press the new bearing onto the axle. 4. Push the axle back in by hand, replace the shims and seals. Do I need to worry about the axle endplay mentioned in the service manual. There seems to be yet another special tool for measuring that. Thanks for any help. Tyson Quote
Young Ed Posted February 4, 2014 Report Posted February 4, 2014 Tyson you can make your own tool with a piece of PVC pipe put between the drum and axle housing. Then use the axle nut to pull the axle out. Yes you need a press to install the bearings. Tap them in carefully to get the race installed. I've done a couple of these just by checking by feel. You need just a little wiggle so the bearings aren't too tight. 1 Quote
bosworth Posted February 4, 2014 Report Posted February 4, 2014 Tyson I just did my rear bearings, one side was pretty tough coming out the other came out easy, we used a home made tool to pull the axles, I then took the axles and new bearings to a local machine shop. They removed the old bearings and pressed on the new one for $20. I also replaced the inner seals, I would imagine your inner seals are also due for a change. They tell me you can pull them with a slide hammer with a hook, my hogs head was out at the time so I just tapped the seal out with a pipe slid in from the opposite end. You will see that there is a plug where you inject grease for the axle bearing. Best of luck Bill 1 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 4, 2014 Report Posted February 4, 2014 (edited) the very shims can be added/taken away to obtain the end play per book specs... .003 - .008 with .003 the desirable end play Edited February 4, 2014 by Plymouthy Adams Quote
William Davey Posted February 4, 2014 Report Posted February 4, 2014 As far as the special tools, Auto Zone basically loans tools for free. You buy the puller(s) you need, use them and bring them back undamaged for a full refund. On my 1955 C-3-B8 I had to combine pieces from a slide hammer puller and a drum puller to yank the axles out. Put all the pieces back in the boxes and returned them the next day. Quote
P15-D24 Posted February 4, 2014 Report Posted February 4, 2014 the very shims can be added/taken away to obtain the end play per book specs... .003 - .008 with .003 the desirable end play Make sure you have both axles mounted with backing plates bolted on before measuring. 1 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 4, 2014 Report Posted February 4, 2014 P15-D24, on 04 Feb 2014 - 3:57 PM, said:Make sure you have both axles mounted with backing plates bolted on before measuring. yes..that is why I mentioned by "book specs"...the procedure is very clear in the manual and well, easier to refer to than type the entire procedure. A mere word to the wise I thought would be enough for them to reference the book.. Quote
Redmond49 Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Posted February 5, 2014 I appreciate the responses, thanks. Quote
jtrepasso Posted May 1, 2015 Report Posted May 1, 2015 Does anyone know where I can purchase extra shims for the rear wheel bearing adjustment? Quote
TodFitch Posted May 1, 2015 Report Posted May 1, 2015 Does anyone know where I can purchase extra shims for the rear wheel bearing adjustment? Have you checked the end play per the manual procedure? Reason I ask is that it is my understanding that the shims are to adjust for manufacturing variations in the axle housing as, apparently, bearings are made to very much tighter tolerances. So there is a very good chance that if you put the same shims back in your end play will be in spec. Barring that, shim stock can be purchased from industrial supply house and, if you are careful, you should be able to cut them the same as you'd cut your own gaskets. Quote
jtrepasso Posted May 1, 2015 Report Posted May 1, 2015 I replaced my rear axle bearings and when I put it back together it didn't have any endplay. Maybe I didn't press the bearings on quite far enough. I thought I did but that could be a possibility. Quote
RobertKB Posted May 1, 2015 Report Posted May 1, 2015 my hogs head was out at the time so I just tapped the seal out with a pipe slid in from the opposite end. You will see that there is a plug where you inject grease for the axle bearing. That is a great idea. If the pumpkin is out get something long to tap the seals out from the opposite side. Why didn't I think of that when I did the seals in my rear axle housing with the differenial out. Inner seals can be a bear to get out just using a puller. I actually cut mine with a cold chisel first to make them easier to get out. Quote
P15-D24 Posted May 2, 2015 Report Posted May 2, 2015 That is a great idea. If the pumpkin is out get something long to tap the seals out from the opposite side. Why didn't I think of that when I did the seals in my rear axle housing with the differenial out. Inner seals can be a bear to get out just using a puller. I actually cut mine with a cold chisel first to make them easier to get out. I have always used a slide hammer and they just pip out. Quote
DonaldSmith Posted May 2, 2015 Report Posted May 2, 2015 (edited) I think he means pop. From the Music Man: ".. and not a poop out of you!" "I think he means peep." Edited May 3, 2015 by DonaldSmith Quote
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